92 S10 Starting Problem

There should be little play in the linkage between the booster and master, it should hold it self in place

1. Top end is the replacement of cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve oil seals, cylinder heads resurfaced, and checked for cracks. (Magna fluxed)
2. Bottom end is engine block resurfaced & checked for cracks, Cylinders honed, crank bearing resurfaced/re-rounded, crank rebalance, new crank bearings. New connecting rods, new rod bearings, new pistons, new piston rings, new freeze out plugs, new front & rear crank seals, new oil pump.

the quick disconnect is broken
get a new quick disconnect or you will have air in fuel or fuel leaking problems

Sounds like a push rod is bent. Unbolt the tube that all the rocker arms pivot on and check all the push rods.

My answer is based on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe. I needed a vise grip to use for some fine pulling and a little bit of hammering, and a 1/8 drill bit (no drill required). These cargo covers are not riveted, there is just a little hollow metal tube about 1 inch long and 1/8 in wide.

So roll the cover up to make it more convenient. Use the 1/8 drill bit to push the metal pins (see pic) and just push the pins out at either end.

Once the pins are out, slide the plastic covers off. They come off with little to no resistance. There is an aluminum rod with three foam pieces on one end to make rolling smooth, and the other end has a long spring with one end attached to the rod and the other end connects to these little white circle plastic discs that hold the other end of the spring. More than likely the plastic failed, as was my case.Holding a metal spring taut with a plastic isn't the best idea but it saved a few pennies off the MSRP so be it. Since these discs were used on both ends, just switch the plastic discs and installation is truly the reverse of the removal. The car is 10 yrs old now so I figure I won't be the owner of it when this piece fails again.

The only difficulty I encountered was a rubber covering on the shaft under the spring that bunched up. I had to pull the spring partially off the shaft and cut some bunched off rubber off.

The latch mechanism is broken. The D-ring is attached to a round shaft with two plates that hold sockest. The socket fits a ball end of a rod.
When you twist the d-ring it pulls/pushes rods and opens/closes latch on each corner above windshield.
You will need to pull all inside trim around inside of windshield and interior light to access the mechanism. Or try to squeeze hand between fabric and header to get rod balls back into sockets to release top so you can replace mechanism.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Chrysler-Crossfire-Convertible-Top-Header-Latch-Mechanism-/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/$(KGrHqFHJE4FB4BQJn)(BQqL3nOJ)w~~60_57.JPG

YOU HAVE TO UNSCREW THE SHIFT LEVER KNOB. REMOVE THE CENTER CONSOLE.REMOVE THE RUBBER SHIFT LEVER BOOT AND THE DUST SEAL.YOU NEED TO RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACKSTANDS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.YOU HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE EXTENSION ROD FROM THE TRANSAXLE.SIMPLY REMOVE THE BOLT THAT ATTACHES IT TO THE EXTENSION BRACKET.TO DISCONNECT THE SHIFT ROD FROM THE TRANSAXLE PUSH THE DUST BOOT FORWARD REMOVE THE CLIP AND DRIVE OUT THE SPRING PIN WITH A PIN PUNCH.DISCARD THE SPRING PIN.DO NOT REUSE IT.TO DISCONNECT THE REAR END OF THE SHIFT ROD FROM THE SHIFT LEVER REMOVE THE NUTS AND BOLTS.THEN REMOVE THE TWO NUTS AND WASHERS THAT RETAIN THE CHANGE BALL HOLDER TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE EXTENSION ROD AND REMOVE THE CHANGE BALL HOLDER LOWER THE SHIFT LEVER DUST SEAL,SHIFT LEVER BALL SEAT,SHIFT LEVER AND EXTENSION ROD.INSPECT THE BUSHING AT THE FRONT END OF THE EXTENSION ROD AND REPLACE IT IF ITS CRACKED TORN OR WORN. REPLACE THE ORINGS IN THE BASE OF THE LEVER.BESURE TO LUBRICATE NEW O RINGS AND BUSHINGS WITH A SILICONE GREASE.USE A NEW SPRING PIN TO ATTACH THE SHIFT ROD TO THE TRANSAXLE.INSTALL EVERY THING BACK VISA VERSA.

If you remove the ring around the handle you will get a better view of the two rods that connect the handle to the outter latches.The ring just snaps in.I think a flat head screw driver from the bottom works the best.Once you have access to the rods you can push the inward twords each other to pop the gate.If the are broken out twords the tail lights then a thin flat head in the gap betwen the tail lights and tail gate should be able to push the spring loaded latches in to pop the gate,but you may need to borrow a extra set of hands.Well hope this helps.

STEP BY STEP Please Remember to Rate Me Thank You RejakWilson




WARNING: On vehicles equipped with Airbags, disable airbag system prior to performing service procedures.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove steering wheel as outlined under STEERING WHEEL procedure.
3. Using a screwdriver, pry cover from housing.
4. Using lock plate compressing No. J-23653 or equivalent, compress lock plate, and pry snap ring from groove on shaft, Fig. 5. Slowly release lock plate compressing tool, then remove tool and lock plate from shaft end.
5. Slide canceling cam and upper bearing preload spring from end of shaft.
6. Remove turn signal (multi-function) lever.
7. Remove hazard warning knob retaining screw, button, spring and knob.
8. Remove pivot arm.
9. Wrap upper part of electrical connector with tape to prevent snagging of wires during switch removal.
10. Remove switch retaining screws and pull switch up from column, guiding wire harness through column.
11. Reverse procedure to install.

1. Remove turn signal switch as outlined under TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.
2. Remove buzzer switch and spring clip. On 1990-92 models, ignition key must be removed from lock to remove buzzer switch. On 1991-92 models, switch and spring clip are one assembly.
3. Turn lock cylinder to Run position on 1989 models or Lock position on 1990-92 models, then remove lock cylinder retaining screw and the lock cylinder.
4. To install, rotate lock cylinder to the stop while holding housing. Align cylinder key with keyway in housing, then push lock cylinder into housing until fully seated. Lock cylinder must be in Run position to install buzzer switch.
5. Install lock cylinder retaining screw, then the buzzer switch, turn signal switch and steering wheel.

Found on-line at other sites.


[Removing/Repairing Gas Filler Door Hinge: Tip from Bill Peyton]   The gas door hinge will break if pushed forward.  This is usually done by moving around the car with the door open, or by curious children.  The repair job can be done completely from the exterior. 
 
The black plastic hinge is held in place by four plastic rods.  When pushed through the body of the car, they expand four rubber sleeves located on the interior, thereby holding the whole thing in place. 
Remove as follows: 
Open the door, and using a small punch, push the four plastic rods through to the interior of the car.  The door will now come out.  Note the position of the spring and the hinge.  Remove the spring from the old hinge, and either cut or pry our the old hinge.  This is a black plastic piece. 
The ends of the new hinge are tapered to make it easier to insert into the gas door.  Clip the spring back into place. 
Now for the hard part.  You will see on the new hinge four plastic rods.  These are held onto the hinge by four small connections, all molded into a single piece.  On the other side of the hinge are four plastic “flowers” split into four pieces.  You will need to push the plastic rods through the “flowers”, once the “flowers” are pushed through to the interior of the car.   Since the rods are not free floating, they tend to break off and fly away unless you hit them squarely.  If this happens, put a little taper in the ends, place them back in the hold, and push them through.  A punch and a hammer will be essential.  Alternatively, you can break the rods off while the piece is off the car, insert them manually, and drive them in again with the punch.