1995 geo prizim 1.8l stalls when hot, hard to start after words

Very late but for anyone else with this problem. I used to have this occur when I drove around for a bit. I'd drive and after 5-20 mins the car would just stall on me. It wouldn't start immediately and sometimes just waiting an hour or 2 and trying again made it start and drivable for a few minutes again. The problem was the ignition coil. I spent over $1400 changing parts to find out it was an $18 fix and took 10 mins to swap out. If the rpms do jump around a lot then yes the stator would be the problem. If it just stalls even while driving, it's the ignition coil. If neither, test the voltage regulator. Hope this help. Happy driving!!

there are 3 states,

1. cranking robustly
2. engine starts
3. engine runs and sustains running, not stalling.

where does yours fail.

????
or was driving and it stalled or stalled and cant start (1,2,3?)
tell more get more.

wont start forever. (parked for 24hrs?) i presume it cranks at full speed?
this is a gen 6 toyota , you can learn best on this car by using
forums for that.car . (true for most Geo's off all kinds)


first off ,never work on any car, unless you now what engine you have (power lost? what engine is this.)
there are two 1.6L and a 1.8L toy engines used on this car.
tune it up yet? every 60k it needs that. did you?
if not turned up (called today "SERVICE POINTS" )

no power cold or hot block.?
if hot ,it fails,only, does it reach and hold 180F coolant temp.or more.?
if not?, halt. the ECU will not work right with a bad thermostat.
when it gets warm, does that mean cold power is good?
and ca (car?) turns off, then wont startca? sorry for big letters that is how it pasted. No font controls.....

my best guess. is you mean,
car runs perfect cold engine, starts ok.?
then i drive, engine warms,and has lost power.?
then, the engine STALLS, and the CEL comes on (all CEL do that, the CEL comes on just before the stall passing 300RPM)
it means the ECU has good Elect power, but the engine is stalled the
tachometer reads zero RPM proof of stall and no forward movement possible. CEL popping on, means Engine stall.

the ca turns off?, my guess is that means car, (engine) turns off, stalls. (

Ok this is a simple post. it's
car hot stalls.
am i correct?
off the wiki, quote (knowing the history facts solves 99% of questions, (how to fix or get parts)!
1990-1992 Geo Prizms were powered by the 4A-FE or optional 4A-GE engine. i think no 1.8L yets
so what engine?
i can not stated history on the 4a engine due to Toy using different
updates on different years. (complex)
Geo Prizm base model (based on Toyota AE92 chassis) 1989-1997
read about the AE92 here
a total of 4.5 million of this generation (AE92) made.
wow, no wonder so many posts here for 92s;
now the forum, just or this car. its the 6th gen car at TOY. not 1st
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/134-6th-generation-1988-1992/
now the stall question last. (in the most general terms( basics its called at ASE school)
all cars, 1920 to now
the same answers.
1: lost electric power 12v to key EFI parts. (or 6v in1920)
2: lost engine compression, if engine has lash setting now is the time..... yes, 60k service point skipped too.
3: lost spark, test for spark at all 4 spark plugs not just 1.
using a new and gapped proper, test spark plug. repeat 4 times on all cyl.
4a: no fuel? (simple tests ,asks
4b: too much fuel. called flooding, (simple tests. all)

on a car this old, about 1/2 of them the timing belt slipped.
at 60k mile mark, it's a mandatory service, up to 100k its failure time.
when?, depends an 10 facts, none that i care to post now. you can ask.
the above fail points can stall any engines, as can:
stuck open egr, (love to at all stop signs) clean it , its a 50k service point.
stuck close ISC (electric iAC) clean it.
melt solid bricked out CAT converter. easy tests. too rich engine kill it flat as it glowed red hot to the moment of collapse.
this last failure can even prevent the engine from starting , fore ever.

for best help post no starts to the forum above, or?
they have drawings and other magic there.

Sounds like there is a cylinder that is miss firing. Could be a plug or plug wire.

If it wont stall in neutral or park it may have a bad torque convertor clutch in the trans causing the engine to stall.

should pull straight out 

Have you checked (or replaced) the O2 sensor. This can cause the engine to run bad at cold temps if the sensor is bad

After driving for a while and the engine becomes hot, when you park the car for a while, does this "for a while" mean enough time for the engine to cool down or not?

The reason why this is important is because an engine can stall for a number of reasons, and finding out the conditions of its stalling obviously helps narrow down the cause of the stall.

If it stalls, you say, when the engine cools down after being parked for a while, this handy diagnostic article will help assess the cause of your problem:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Engine_System_Engine_Stalls_When_Cold.htm

If it stalls again, like you said, after warming up and driving for a bit, the ambient temperature may be too as well as the engine itself, which then you should be inclinde to read this diagnostic article:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Engine_System_Engine_Stalls_When_Hot.htm

You may very well be right its due to fuel starvation, particularly as to the malfunctioning of the EGR, as noted in the article.

I'm sure these articles will provide you with great insight.
Good luck!
Brad

it can be the head gasket or the head might be cracked or warped or or it could be a intake gasket

Your head gasket must be bad, allowing coolant to flow into an oil passage in the head.