No believe it or not your next step is to bleed it again, a bad booster usually results in a hard pedal. Start by gravity bleeding open all 4 bleeders one at a time when one begins to drip move to the next one when you have all 4 dripping constantly tighten the bleeders then bleed again starting right rear, left rear, right front left front. I hope this helps. Take care.
SOURCE: brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500
If your rubber brake lines are from the factory those hoses can stretch when the brakes are applied. This same thing happened to me. I replaced the master cylinder, with little to no change. So then I changed the brake booster. And if you read the fine print if either the brake booster or the master cylinder go bad it can take the other with it. So if the rubber brake lines don't fix this I would look at replacing both the master cylinder and the brake booster at the same time. But if you would like to trouble shoot this issue a bit more you can clamp off just the rear brakes or just the front brakes or even clamp off 3 of 4 or if it might be a issue before it even hits the brakes them self you can clamp off all 4 of the brakes to see were the problem is. This is to test fewer components at once and to see if the issue is with the cylinders / calipers or hoses. This will help you determine the location of the problem faster and with out throwing parts at your truck and hopping it fixes the issue.
SOURCE: Fiat Uno Pacer - Brake Booster not assist braking
it could be that the master cylinder is bad or the brake booster is bad also check the vacum hose going to the brake booster if it has a hole in it it will lose pressure and make the engine lose rpms
SOURCE: soft brake pedal after replacing shoes,drums,wheel
YOU STILL HAVE AIR IN BRAKE SYSTEM REBLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.
SOURCE: 1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
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