I have a 2003 Dodge Neon 2.0. I am getting a trouble code of p0341. I have replaced both the cam and crankshaft sensors. The car still will not start. I have checked all connections for both sensors and visually inspected the wiring to both as well. When I crank the car, it does not get any spark. When I check the resistance across the ignition module, it is within tolerances. Also when I crank the car, the crank shaft is turning. I am getting gas flow to the fuel rail while cranking. Why am I not getting spark?

SOURCE: 93" subaru legacy ( EJ22 with auto) engine stopped & won't start

Water introduced through the fuel system. Drain tank and lines, refill, and add HEET.

SOURCE: Won't Start

did you pull the code? check fuel pressure the regulator may be bad

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




Thanks for using FixYa!!

SOURCE: 2000 Silverado-4.3 ltre-cranks over-wont start-consistenly

Yes. First, in the fuse block under the hood check INJ A fuse and INJ B fuse. INJ A fuse is circuit 1039 which feeds the coil. If the fuse is OK, replace the coil electrical connector. I stock 2 of these at my dealership because they are needed quite often.
FYI P1351 is an ignition coil control circuit DTC.

SOURCE: 1997 Dodge Intrepid cranks over won't fire

I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!