It isn't too hard a job it's just a messy one. The oil filter type might depend on the version of the engine yours is fitted with. This method is for the basic 'screw on' type.
I have attached a series of videos that will be a rough guide to doing this job.
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. The drain plug will be a larger size bolt on the lowest part of the sump, (oil pan), on the engine.
I usually use a large sheet of cardboard on the floor with an oil catch pan on top of it.
Carefully loosen the drain plug one turn. It should start to leak oil. Gently remove the plug 'by hand' so you don't drop it in the oil pan with the used oil. Let it drain until it's a steady Slow drip. Clean the drain plug and the hole it came out of then refit the plug.
**NOTE** fit the plug by hand until it stops THEN just turn it a small amount tighter with a spanner or socket. It does NOT need to be in super tight, about 20 to 25Nm as a torque setting.
Dispose of the old oil safely. Some mechanic shops will accept it for safe disposal.
Facing the rear of the vehicle and looking down on the engine, the filter should be on the left side about half way down. Remove it from underneath as access will be better. It should only be in 'Hand Tight' but you might need a 'strap' or 'filter' tool to loosen it at first.
** The filter will have oil in it and oil will leak out of the filter mount hole so use your drip pan to catch the spillages**.
Make sure you have the old filter oil seal ring as they sometimes stay stuck to the engine block.
Clean all the exposed faces as best you can. Pour a small amount of oil into the filter and rub a small amount of oil over the new oil seal ring to stop it wrinkling up when you re-fit it. Re-fit the new filter by hand until it is nice and tight.
**NOTE** This is tight enough. You don't need a tool to tighten it!
Check the sump plug is refitted and the oil filter is in place. Wipe clean any spills made during refitting.
Check your owner's manual for the type and amount of oil needed and refill the engine. Once filled walk away for about ten minutes before you check your oil levels. When it is correct start the engine, let it settle into a smooth idle then check under the vehicle for leaks from the sump plug and the filter housing. No leaks means a good job done. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground.
Give it two or three days of use and re-check for leaks and your oil level. No leaks and a steady oil level is a job well done. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2002_Kia_Sportage_2.0L_4_Cyl._Sport_Utility_(4_Door)/oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter
SOURCE: 2000 kia sportage ex, 4 cyl.
Yes there is a sensor that controls Fuel/air ratio.It's called a MAF (mass air flow sensor)
But I think you should have the EGR (Exhaust gas recirculation)valve checked
and The TPS (throttle position sensor)maybe dirty.
Although may things can cause this issue,I would look at the items above first.
Please rate this a blue fixya
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I fought with this problem every year since I had the Sportage. And it was so frustrating to find out just when you really needed it, that you did not have 4-wheel drive. I replaced the hubs with manual hubs and I wish I would have done it at the beginning. They work great and are 100% reliable. Bottom line.. the vacuum hubs were a great idea that just plain did not work reliably. Save yourself alot of grief and money and just replace the hubs. Less than $200 including paying someone to put then on and I now can rely on my Sportage when I need it.
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Check solutions for Kia Sportage under heading. Need timing marks and ignition wiring by Brattlehead. The markings I gave him will also work for your 2001 Sportage
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I need the torque settings and pattern for a Kia Sportage 2.2
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Check front wheels there is 2 pipes going to the wheels 1 is for brake fluid to the callepers and the other one is for vacume suction to ingage or dis ingage the free wheel function 99% of the time this pipe is leaking or it is broken. enjoy !! Willem SA
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