Rebuilding my R34 GT-T need to know if there are torque specs for re attaching the front and rear sub frame and axels if so where can I get copies

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Torque Specs ' Chevy Impala SS Forum

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If you have an 8.6" ring you should have a 10 bolt axel. With this axel you don't torque the pinion nut. This style axel has a crush collar. Down below I forwarded the preload torque specs. If you do have a 12 bolt axel, the ring gear does get torqued but the ring gear will not be 8.6" Please write back if you need anything thing else. Pinion Preload New: 14 to 19 in-lbs Pinion Preload Reused: 6 to 8 in-lbs

As long as it isnt messed up at or behind the suspension it shouldnt affect anything . a body shop can put it on a frame machine and pull it back within specs.

What kind of vehicle is it?

Three bolts are 70 lbs,could be 120+/-.

It's a bit of a pain, but doable with simple tools.

Loosen the front lug nuts. Jack up the van and support it on the rails just behind the front tires (not the sub frame as you need to lower that a few inches). Remove the front tires. Disconnect the sway bar link pins, and the sway bar mounting bolts. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckles. Support the rear ends of the sub frame, and remove the bolts mounting it to the van. Once the sub frame bolts are out, lower the rear end of the frame. I did this by using a jack, and placing the jack stands a couple of inches below the frame. Remove the sway bar from the van. You may need to drop the rack a bit more, but be careful as the steering shaft is still connected. You should be able to get at the bolt that attaches the rack stub to the steering rod by pushing up on the boot. Remove the sub shaft bolt. Disconnect the power steering lines from the rack (at the rack). Un-bolt the rack from the sub frame, there are two bolts. The rack should be able to be removed from the drivers side of the van. I replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar bushings when I replaced mine (new link pins are easy at this time too). The installation is reverse of removal. I measured the tie rod distances when I put the new ends on. The only change I made was that I tied the steering shaft boot down onto the rack so I could install the bolt. I couldn't push the boot up high enough to get the bolt back in. Be sure to install the new power steering line seals that should come with the rack (buy new ones if it doesn't) - the lines are different sizes so you can't mix them up. Torque everything to spec when reinstalling (the cheap Hanes manuals have what you need along with these directions!). It's easiest to install the sway bar brackets when the sub frame is hanging down. Once it's together and running, check the power steering fluid. Get an alignment immediately (I set mine up before I changed the rack).
One last bit of advice, buy the rack with the longer warranty, you don't want to do this twice.

These specs should be in the shop manuals or your local AutoZone can provide these torque values.

Check all bushings in the control arms and springs for wear.

Differential bearing caps 70-85 ft lb
Ring gear bolts 70-85 ft lb
Pinion bearing preload if using original bearings 8-14 lb-in, if installing new bearings 16-28 lb-in

call carquest or other parts house and ask them for the torque specs or a front end alignment shop.