I am changing batterys on a 48v club car and when I connect the small black wire to the controller I get a spark. It is constant not momentary.

The car thinks the ignition is in the Start position, thus when you push the clutch in, it allows for the starter to be energized and engaged.

Something still is not wired correctly.
As a generality, it sounds like the momentary power wire (should only be hot when key is in Start position) is wired to the constant-supply power wire spot.

I found the info below, here - http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/HONDA%20ACCORD%201985-2005.pdf

12V CONSTANT WHITE or WHITE/BLACK
STARTER BLACK/WHITE
IGNITION BLACK/YELLOW
ACCESSORY YELLOW
SECOND ACCESSORY BLUE/WHITE

Did you forget a ground wire attachment? Recheck your engine grounds.
Each coil should get power on the black/white from the ignition switch, constant battery voltage. Does it? If not, check fuse 24, a 10 amp fuse in the Junction Block. Power travels from the ignition switch (in ON, RUN, or START) to this fuse, and then is spliced to each coil. Other than that, the PCM controls the current switching for the coils (for spark). The other wire from the coil (black?) goes to the pcm for earthing the primary current to the coils.

If the coils have power but no spark, it could be the crankshaft position sensor. I believe the crank sensor would be more important than the camshaft sensor for the pcm to figure spark timing.

likely the dimming relay bad follow wires back to a small box (relay) with connections. Most likely not working properly an needs to be replaced, otherwise the connection from diming switch on stearing column is bad or the switch is bad or the wire from this switch to the dimming relay is bad. you may be able to jumper from the battery to the relay to see if the relay is ok. it is known as a flipflop switch so momentary power causes the relay change position from high to low beam and back.

You can confirm each injector is actually working. Get a momentary switch, 2 feet of wire and some spade terminals (or whatever your connectors take). Disconnect the plug that connects to your injectors. Determine which injectors are controlled by which 2 wires. Connect 1 wire to the Positive 12V side of battery, then to one terminal on your switch. Connect a second wire from the other terminal of the switch to one of the two terminals of the injector you are testing, then connect a wire from the second terminal of the injector to any good ground on the car, or back to the Negative 12V on the battery. With the engine off, push the momentary switch on and off you should hear the injector clicking. If you hear the clicking that injector is working. Repeat the procedure for all other injectors. To avoid and shorting issues the wire going to the positive side of the battery should be connected last, and make sure no part of the wiring on the positive side touches any metal during this entire procedure.Disconnect the positive wire after each test to avoid any accidents.

Suspect you may be better listed in something besides Cars and Trucks, like Golfcarts.

I would replace the spark plugs and more importantly the spark plug wires. It may be a bad plug wire with a break in it somewhere. It be so small that it only grounds the wire out when it gets warm due to expansion of the insulation around the wire.

What you have is a bad ignitor. It is a small part located behind the RPM limiter. Getting to it is a little tricky but I will try to explain. On the front of the motor, you will find 2 10mm bolts holding a black object that is the RPM limiter. Take these two bolts out and you will find the silver part behind the black box. It will have one wire running to it. The reason it is intermittent, is that heat from the engine builds up and the heat causes it to be bad. When it cools down, it will go to running again. The part runs about $50-$70 . Replace and make sure the connection fits snugly and that the wire that was under one of the bolts goes back on.

Okay, I think I have it. The red and yellow wire into the deck need to be connected to two different power sources.

The red wire should only be hot when the accessory switch is on. The yellow wire is for constant power to maintain memory in the deck.

Connect the red wire to a source which is only hot when the ignition switch is in accessory position -- that should solve the problem.

is it at idle if yes change your idle air control valve.

if you don t see any spark plug wires then your motor has coil packs(black colored boxwith 2 small electrical wires) located on top of motor 3 on one side,3 on the other.disconnect negative terminal on battery,then disconnect wire connector at each coil pack and remove 2 screws that hold down coil pack, pull gently straight up and plug is right there below coil pack