I HAVE A 95 TOYOTA COROLLA NO CRANK NO SPARK PROBLEM. BATTERY IS GOID. STARTER GOOD. THERES CURRENT TO THE IGNITION COIL. SHOULD THERE BE A SPARK COMING OUT THE COUL WHEN KEY IS TURN ON??

You treat it as if there was no spark at all. doesn't sound like the ignition coil, so it could be the ignitor (on American cars called the ignition control module, or ICM, but both are basically the coil control module-it controls the primary and secondary windings in the coil) . You can have the ignitor tested at most parts stores. If it is good, next suspect the crank position sensor. This sensor is used by the engine computer to determine spark firing and spark advance, so if bad, there won't be spark. Could be more to check, but start with those two. Usually one of them is bad, or the coil itself is bad.
Have you checked for any fault codes with a scanner?

Usually, if you have good spark at all the spark plugs, then, I don't think the coil pack is your problem? If no spark, check primary voltage and ground for the coil pack. There may be an ohms spec for coil, but, I don't have that right in front of me?
If no spark, are you missing anything else? You have good fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse, engine cranking?

I have to ask, how long since a tune-up? Are there any applicable trouble codes?

Before you could proceed please ensure that the following sub assemblies in good working condition:
- Battery health and it specific gravity.
- Alternator assembly.
- Starter motor assembly.
- Make sure that battery to engine ground thick cable is neat and firm.
- Check battery to chassis/body ground connection.
If the problem persists, check the following:
- Valve clearance.
- Distributor cap and rotor for any crack or corrosion.
- Ignition coil in the distributor assembly.
- Ignition module in the distributor assembly.
- Distributor assembly.
Hope that works.

Does it sound like it wants to start while cranking then dies when key released? This was a common problem with early ignition sysems where Ignition external ballast resister failed,( small ceramic block thing beside coil). Fuel pump failer is another maybe, test by running fuel hose after pump into 2litre container, While cranking this should half full in 30sec. Be Very carefull doing this. Disconnect ignition coils to prevent any sparking.

If there is no spark at all, the problem likely lies in primary circuit of the ignition system. Check the following:-
- Battery health.
- Ignition fuse located in under the dash, finish panel on driver's side.
- Ignition distributor assembly. (Ignition module, ignition coil)
- Ignition switch assembly.
- Security system, if any.

if your getting spark the problem isn't distrib try squrting a little fuel in air inlet if it starts it's most likely an injector problem check the injector impulse.
check crank sensor or cam sensor
good luck

Hard to say what it is without testing so I 'm gonna give you a list of things you or a repair shop can check out:
SYMPTOM :NO CRANK
Battery,battery cables,ignition switch, neutral safety switch, starter relay, starter.
SYMPTOM: CRANK NO START
MAKE SURE TIMING BELT DIDN'T BREAK OR SKIP A TOOTH,STARTER current draw test , coil, coil pack, ignition module( only if no spark at the plug wires) fuel pump relay, fuel pump, injector module and drives, fuel pressure regulator.

This year Camry is a good year. Very little problems except annoying EVAP system. TIMING BELT SHOULD BE DONE EVERY 60K . ALONG WITH CAM, CRANK, OIL PUMP SEALS AND WATER PUMP.
I recommend taking your car to Sears Auto Center
they are pretty good with this kind of work.

So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Do you have crank no start?
Do you have no crank no dash lights nothing?

Items to check out Battery and battery cables (Load test battery and make sure cables are clean and tight especially the B+ cable off the starter).
Listen to the cranking speed of the starter. Does it sound normal or slow? Depending on what you hear you may want to do a starter current draw test or have a shop do it for you.
If all of the above are a-ok then move onto fuel and ignition checks. AT THIS POINT YOU SHOULD HAVE CRANK NO START.
When you put the key into the ignition and turn it to on position do you hear the fuel pump buzz?
No buzzing sound ... you could have either a bad fuel
pump or relay. Either way the vehicle is going to a shop for further diagnosis and repair.

Unscrew a spark plug attach it to its wire and ground its electrode . Crank engine and look for spark.
No spark! Now check plug wires and coil. How? Use shop manual for correct testing procedure .
If no spark is found coming from the coil then check B+ coming from battery to coil and ignition module.
Lastly not likely , ignition switch should not be left out of the equation. Your gonna need the shop manual for that test procedure. Good luck

If not cranks at all check the battery for charge, starter, fuses
If cranks no start check wiring(replace) , distributor cap (replace), rotor, ignition coil
Please kindly let me know if you need more info
Good Luck