The ref voltage is 12 volts, probably goes hot with key on. Lo ref, should be ground, A computer safe test lite should work to check ground. Then you have the signal wire. With a digital sensor, the signal, in this case would switch between 0 and 12 volts depending on engine position. It's a dual crank sensor, that's why you got 6 wires.
The battery has a full charge and connections all good? Engine cranking you have spark--proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse? Any applicable trouble codes? Those are the basic checks, in my opinion.
Testimonial: "Engine cranks, fuel pressure is good. I haven't check the spark yet. The coils fit down over the top of the plugs, so I don't know how I would check for spark. Any idea how I would?"
"Engine cranks, fuel pressure is good. I haven't check the spark yet. The coils fit down over the top of the plugs, so I don't know how I would check for spark. Any idea how I would?"
If ignition module and coil in one assembly. Take the whole thing loose, turn it over, use spark testers in place of spark plugs. The spark tester will need ground. Crank the engine watch for spark.
Thanks for the info. I'll try and do this tonight.
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SOURCE: 01 oldsmobile aurora crank sensor code
Call autozone and ask them to define the codes for ya then get with your mechanic and get em fixed.
SOURCE: 01 olds aurora
bank 1 sensor 1 will be in exhaust manifold by firewall in the middle. bank 1 sensor 2 will be behind convertor .bank 2 sensor 1 will be in the front manifold down at the end of it
SOURCE: 1997 olds aurora not starting
If you checked you battery with a load tester and it was good there are two things for you to check. First check all of your cables to be sure you have good contacts and that they are clean and not frayed. also follow cables and look for "bumps" in the line. Check to be sure the connection to the starter is clean and tight. If all is good and it still will not start then remove you alternator and have it tested and repaired as required
SOURCE: popping/backfiring thru intake under accel
Well that car is a obd1. There are many issues that can cause that. A engine that usually misfires or surges under a heavy load or at higher speeds usually indicates it is starved for fuel. I would for sure change the fuel filter if has not been done in last 30,000. I would check fuel pressure and fuel volume. Yes the converter that is clogged causes lack of power, misfire, and poor fuel economy. If the converter is clogged well you still have to fix the problem that caused converter to clog, which is usually an overly rich air/fuel mixture. Most the time it gets clogged due to a bad spark plug, wire, or valve not seating causing raw fuel to enter the exhaust system. I would first check the basics look for any vacuum leaks check the plugs see if they are black and dry (carbon fouled) from to rich fuel mixture, caused by weak ingition, dirty air cleaner, defective fuel pump, e.t.c. or if they white or gray insulator with black or gray brown spots, from low fuel pressure or incorrect timing e.t.c. If you dont find any vacuum leaks bad plugs clogged air cleaner then you need to check the sensors map, mass air flow, etc. I would check your check engine light, when you first turn the key to the on position it should light up, if not than its burnt. Computer codes make diagnosis alot easier. If you can get the codes if it has them let me know. Most exhaust shops will check converter for free. Hope this helps you get a understanding.
SOURCE: 01 olds aurora 4.0 low coolant light on. Where is
The coolant level sensor is inside the coolant bottle. It is not replaceable separately. You will have to replace the reservoir to replace the sensor.
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