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My 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander's AC runs a lot warmer at idle speed but when I get moving like on a highway, it gets ice cold. I already had the freon added and it still does it.
Since you have taken the first step of checking the freon the next thing you should add is does the ac blower stay the same speed or change as you go faster i would check to see while the engine is running open the hood watch the clutch turn on and how long it stays on if can have someone push the pedal to rev the engine if if the clutch doesn't kick on while idle then the clutch is at the point where the rpm of the motor force it to kick on and it is bad and well you now what will be need to be done then but first try changing the ac sensor for the compressor it tells it when to come on and when to go off when the car is running period try this first no point of spending a couple hundred for a compressor
I just had this problem. It might be your fan control module. This controls the fan that forces air through the radiator when you are not driving. It was a faulty part and had a recall years ago, there is a technical service bulletin on it somewhere. If you have not had this replaced stop by the local mits. dealer and they will be glad to check it. Effectively there was a bad solder in the unit and there will be no voltage at the contol line.
This is normal. It will cool down when driving because the condenser in the front of the car has air flow through it and the heat generated from the AC process is being removed from the system. This does not happen at idle and that is because your fan can only remove a portion fo the heat build up.
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I think you have a similar problem to mine. At highway speeds is when it happens. And it is not blazing hot? Right?
Your evaporator is freezing up - as this happens the ice surrounding it prevents the flow of air over the evaporator coils and the result is warm air coming out of the registers. If I turn off the AC for about ten minutes and let unit melt the cold air comes back. This does not occur in stop and go driving.
I combat it by either running the fan at a higher than normal setting to increase air flow over the evaporator and then turning off when it gets too cold, OR using the air control to allow warmer outside air to enter into unit at highway speeds to prevent freezing up.
Newer cars have more sophisticated sensors and controls to prevent this but some older vehicles are subject to this anomaly.
Since it works fine under normal conditions I have not messed around with the freon level in system. If you release a tad of refrigerant the low pressure switch will shut off the compressor sooner and help minimize ice buildup. Good luck.
Check your coolant level when engine cold, low level coolant does not circulate very well at idle and will cause poor heating,at higher RPM water pump turns faster to help circulate.
press the helpful button,
While what i understand your Mitsubishi outlander, 2003 AWD having problem with wheel alignment Or a wheel barring problem kind of . and if you SUB wobbles from behind it might be problem from driving shaft or shaft crosses. its better to visit a proper mechanic to solve this problem other wise you ll facing bigger problems from this ....
bettter take care & have a save drive ...
I had the exact same problem with my 03' Outlander. I called the dealer and gave them the last 8 digits of the VIN and found that my Outlander had "no outstanding recalls". Tough luck. Apparently, the recall/repair was done a few years ago by the previous owner and now its acting up again.
Well, have no fear, the problem is caused by a defective cooling fan controller which is located on the inside wall of the radiator. You cant miss it. Disconnect the plug thats attached to the input of the controller (it comes from the ECU in the fuse box on the drivers side engine compartment). Check for 12VDC coming into the unit from the ECU to make sure its got voltage when the engine is running with the AC on. If it does, and the fans are not running, the unit is most likely the problem. You can also check the two outputs to the two fans for 12vdc to make sure the fans arent both bad. (unlikely)
Give the unit a tap with a wrench with the AC on and engine running (be careful) to see if the relays free up and the fans start running. It worked on mine! Now the car runs cool as a cucumber even at long red lights and in traffic jams. Sometimes the relays can get stuck. I hope this helps.
Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly.
You have 2 fans because one is the temperature controlled radiator fan that only runs when the engine water temp is above 160 deg. F. The water termperature controlled fan can run even with the ignition key OFF should the Engine water temp be too hot.
The 2nd fan is for your Air-Conditioner that should run when the cabin temp is set low enough for the Air-Conditioner compressor to run. This fan should run anytime the Air-Conditoner is switched on.
If your experiencing engine over heat problems when driving slow or sitting idle most likely the fan switch that is switched on by water temperature has failed. The fan switch controls a fan relay and if the relay fails the fan will not run. In this particular model there is a cooling fan module that controls the fan.
SOUNDS LIKE THE IDLE IS TOO HIGH! YOU CAN ADJUST THIS AT THROTTLE! YOU'LL SEE A PLATE WHERE THE CABLE IS ON TOP OF MOTOR! IF YOU MOVE THAT PLATE, THE IDLE WILL INCREASE! IN BACK OF THAT PLATE IS AN ADJUSTMENT SCREW! TURN IT OUT, AND THE IDLE WILL DECREASE!
Generally if the a/c works fine at highway speeds but kicks out or slowly begins to blow warmer and warmer air as the vehicle is driven at slow speeds or is stopped the a/c condensor cooling fan is usually at fault. At highway speeds there is enough air being forced through the radiator, condenser, and oil coolers to keep everything working and cool but when the vehicle is moving slowly or is parked the electric and mechanical cooling fans have to be working to pull enough air through to keep things working. If the cooling fan isn't working or can't pull enough air through the a/c condensor the system will kick out once the internal pressure reaches a certain point. Once the vehicle is moving again the system can get rid of the heat that it has gathered from the passenger cabin, the pressure drops back to normal and the system cools again. I would start by looking for a blown cooling fan fuse in the fuse panel under the hood. Usually they are 25 amps or larger and run only the cooling fan.
I have 150,000 miles, no problems. I think a front CV or bearing in in need of replacement. I have replaced the front brakes and rotors. Great on the highway.. 20MPG on the freeway..
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