First let's see what's missing, fuel, spark or both. Do this remove a plug wire or coil on plug the insert a screwdriver into the boot and then hold the metal part of the screwdriver 1/2in. from a metal part of the engine block then have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. Check fuel, do this remove the cap from the fuel rail test port and depress the schraeder valve while someone turns the switch on, fuel should spray out. NOTE to avoid fire do these tests in this order. I wonder about your fuel pump. I hope this helps. Take care.
SOURCE: The car cranks but won't start
Ok, check the following below--
1. Check the Ignition control Module for its operational value. it may be damaged.
2. Check the coils.
3. Check the plugs and wires.
4. Check the ECM/PCM/ECU(All represent the same device that is commonly known as the engine control computer)
Check these areas thoroughly for faults. I would also advise to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump as well.
SOURCE: 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee No Start
I would be thinking that there is a good chance that you need to be checking out replacing the computer, if you aren't getting any communication with the proper scan tool then the computer isn't communicating with anything in the vehicle...... I would have guessed first off that the ignition control module might be bad but that is obviously part of the computer also, I would be looking in that direction.
SOURCE: 95 dodge Neon. Crank but wont start. I Changed the
had same problem. neons are bad for the gas filler tube rusting out. there has to be pressure in the tank for the car to run.check and see if yours is rusted out or hole in it somewhere.
SOURCE: I have a 1998 chrysler concorde lxi. I was driving
hello im josh have you tested for fuel pressure
SOURCE: 2006 f250 diesel....crank and crank
The first thought that comes to mind is a high pressure oil leak. The
injectors have a snap ring on top that sometimes becomes detached and
it will create these symptoms.
When you depress the brake it
sends a signal to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and the PCM increases the idle because it
predicts you are about to shift into gear. If the truck has a high
pressure leak inside the engine it will have a hard time building
pressure initially and once the oil warms and thins out the High
Pressure Oil Pump cannot hold the pressure and the oil leaks faster
because it is thinner.
You may have a leak around the pump area
which is under the turbo also. The IPR which is the regulator that
controls the oil pressure may also be bad. It is directly under the
turbo as well. The IPR is located under the turbo on the High Pressure Oil Pump cover.
You stated the seals were leaking on the IPR itself? If the orings are
damaged or if the screen in the end of it is collapsed or even punched
through with a small hole it will need replaced. Screen damage is
usually a sign of debris entering it from either dirt from a previous
repair or something is coming apart inside.
Make certain you have clean oil and fuel filters.
Yor may want to check fuel pressure as well. It should be somewhere
around 55psi on acceleration.
Additionally, I suggest check for voltage at the connector on the fuel pump. The pump is
mounted in the filter housing on the frame and the connector is at the
front of it. The pink and black wire should have 12 volts with the key
on for about 30 seconds. If the pump has voltage but is not running,
then your pump has failed. If there is no voltage then check fuse 2.40
in the central junction box. This is the fuse that feeds the inertia
switch through the fuel pump relay. I have included a fuse box layout
and a wiring diagram (click over images for zoom)...
Additionally, will need to scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.
Keep us updated.
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