Need tools for installation and removal of RH cv shaft on hhr?

It is cheaper and easier to replace the entire half shaft than to replace one CV joint on the half shaft. The only special tool needed is the axle nut socket. support the vehicle, remove the wheel, remove the axle nut, remove the lower ball joint, separate the lower control arm from the spindle, push the outer CV stub in from the hub, then remove the inner CV stub from the transmission. The inner has a circlip that will hold it in, you will need to get a prybar behind the flange and pry against the transmission case to get it to separate. But that's it, reverse procedure to install new half shaft making sure to torque everything back to specifications.

Keith the seals will need replaced, take into a shop and have a tech give estimate for repair. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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I would replace the complete axle assembly,
it would be cheaper and come with a warranty.

Instructions

1. Remove the CV Joint
   • Remove the boot straps from the CV joint using a standard screwdriver or a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.
   • Slide the boot back over the interconnecting shaft.

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     Detach the stop ring at the base of the CV joint assembly using a pair of snap ring pliers.
     

   • Pull the CV joint assembly from the interconnecting shaft to force the snap ring at the top of the shaft through the CV joint assembly.
   • Tilt the inner cage (the cage holding the balls in place inside the housing) in different angles to remove the six balls. Use your thumb or a hammer and a wooden dowel, if necessary.
   • Tilt the inner cage enough to remove it from its housing.
   • Rotate the race inside the cage--the part that holds the balls against the inner cage--and remove the race from the cage.
     Replace the CV Joint
     • Apply a thick coat of grease to the new CV joint race using special high temperature/high pressure grease (see Tips below).
     • Install the race inside the new cage. Then install the cage/race assembly inside the CV joint housing.
     • Tilt the cage at different angles and fit the new balls in place.
     • Slide a new CV joint rubber boot over the interconnecting shaft.
     • Install a new snap and stop ring on the interconnecting shaft.
     • Push the interconnecting shaft through the CV joint assembly to force the snap ring through the assembly.
     • Apply a thick coat of CV joint grease to all moving parts of the assembly.
     • Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inside of the rubber boot. Then slide the boot over the CV joint assembly.
     • Install the boot straps at each end of the boot, and tighten the straps using a clamp tool or screwdriver, depending on the type of clamp.
     
     
     

I would have the cv axle changed along with any integral parts such as the abs ring.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the wheel cover/hub cover from the wheel and tire assembly, then loosen the lug nuts. Fig. 1: After removing the wheel/hub cover, loosen the lug nuts
   
   
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle, then remove the wheel and tire assembly. Insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning, then remove the hub nut and washer. Discard the old hub nut. Fig. 2: Before removing the hub nut and washer, insert a steel rod in the rotor to prevent it from turning
   Fig. 3: Remove the hub nut and washer, then discard the nut, and replace with a new one during installation
   
   
4. Remove the nut from the ball joint to steering knuckle attaching bolts.
5. Drive the bolt out of the steering knuckle using a punch and hammer. Discard this bolt and nut after removal. Fig. 4: Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer, then discard the nut and bolt and replace with new ones during installation
   
   
6. If equipped with anti-lock brakes, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside. If equipped with air suspension, remove the height sensor bracket retaining bolt and wire sensor bracket to inner fender. Position the sensor link aside. Fig. 5: If so equipped, remove the anti-lock brake sensor and position it aside
   
   
7. Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle using a suitable prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing. Use care to prevent damage to the ball joint boot. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the stabilizer bar. Fig. 6: When separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, be careful not to damage to ball joint boot
   
   1. Slide the link shaft out of the transaxle. Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
   2. Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent. NOTE: Never use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint stub shaft from the hub. Damage to the CV-joint threads and internal components may result. The halfshaft assembly is removed as a complete unit.
      
   3. Install the CV-joint puller tool T86P-3514-A1 or equivalent, between CV-joint and transaxle case. Turn the steering hub and/or wire strut assembly aside.
   4. Screw extension tool T86P-3514-A2 or equivalent, into the CV-joint puller and hand tighten. Screw an impact slide hammer onto the extension and remove the CV-joint.
   5. Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur.
   6. Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent.
   7. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle. Fig. 7: These tools are necessary for halfshaft removal
      Fig. 8: Installing the specified tools to remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle
      Fig. 9: Support the end of the shaft by suspending it from a convenient underbody component with a piece of wire. Do not allow the shaft to hang unsupported, since damage to the outboard CV-joint may occur
      Fig. 10: Separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub using front hub remover tool T81P-1104-C or equivalent, and metric adapter tools T83P-1104-BH, T86P-1104-Al and T81P-1104-A or equivalent, then remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle
      Fig. 11: Exploded view of the halfshaft assemblies and related components - automatic transaxle
      

Loosen the wheel hub nut.
Remove the front road wheel and tire.
Remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
Using the special tool 204-192 Ball joint Splitter
detach the tie rod end.
Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Loosen the subframe rear mount bolt.
Loosen the subframe front mount bolt.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
using spcial tools 204-269Forcing Screw,205-491-01 adapter nuts,205-491 wheel hub puller
Detach the wheel knuckle.
Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Reposition the lower arm.
Detach the wheel knuckle.
using special tools 307-443 RH Halfshaft splitter ,307-442 RH Halfshaft splitter handle
detach the halfshaft.
Remove the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Remove the halfshaft seal.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
To prevent damage to the transfer box internal seal,
make sure that the link shaft is not retracted further than
200 mm from the transfer box casing.
remove the halfshaft.
Attach special tools to the halfshaft.
Lever the special tools to displace the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the halfshaft.
Use suitable protective covers to protect the barshaft.
Remove the halfshaft snap ring.
Install a new snap ring to the halfshaft.
Install a new halfshaft seal.
Remove the special tool.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the special tool.
Make sure the CV joint splines are located fully.
Do not use excessive force when engaging the CV joint into the link shaft.
Install the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Reposition the lower arm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Install the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Tighten to 83 Nm.
Install the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Tighten the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
Tighten to 142 Nm.
Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
Install the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Tighten to 35 Nm. Tighten to 142 Nm.
Install the tie rod end.
Tighten to 35 Nm.
Loosely install a new wheel hub nut.
Install the front road wheel and tire.
Tighten the wheel hub nut.
Tighten to 330 Nm.
Check the subframe alignment.

Answers to questions such as these may already have been answered in here under the same vehicle of a different year. In this case I have previously given the following answer for a 1998 Esteem/Baleno.

"If I remember correctly, to remove the RH shaft from a manual version of this car, you don't actually need to remove the part of the shaft that comes out of the gearbox. For an auto, you may have to, but see what it looks like under there, and you'll soon know. With either trans, you'll have to undo the main drive shaft nut (after un-staking the nut with a narrow chisel) and this is easier with 2 people - one to stand on the brake pedal, the other to jump on the breaker bar. This is a normal RH threaded nut - just really tight. Next, the nut has to be removed from the horizontal bolt that goes through the bottom of the RH steering knuckle just above the suspension arm. Once the bolt is removed, you can push down on the suspension arm to disengage the ball joint from the knuckle. Now would be a good time to remove the clip retaining the hydraulic brake line to the strut to avoid stretching the brake line. Next, turn the steering wheel fully to the left, and while pulling the front of the disc outwards as well, tap the drive shaft inwards with a soft (copper or nylon) hammer. If the shaft hasn't rusted in place, this will be easy. If it has rusted, you'll know fairly quickly, and the job has just got a lot more complicated. I won't cover the "worst case scenario" here as it will get messy! Once the outer CV is disengaged, it's just a question of removing the inner CV. For a manual, the inner CV slides onto a splined shaft that runs almost the length of the engine sump and is held into the gearbox by a bracket bolted to the engine block with 3 bolts. These don't need to be removed. With your soft hammer, tap outwards on the inner CV joint while your helper keeps tension on the shaft while rotating it. This will probably be the shaft removed from the car. If your drive shaft is one piece all the way to the gearbox, then you will actually need to lever the inner out of the (auto) trans - also while your helper turns the shaft. Unless you drain it, you will lose some oil when the drive shaft comes out of the box. The manual filler plug is on the other side of the diff, and autos need to be filled from the trans dipstick tube (check while running). A hoist makes this job very much easier."

Balenos or Esteems were available from 1995 - 2001 depending on market of course.

no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.

1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.

1. CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
   Remove the nut and washer.
   • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.

1. WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
   CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.

1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.

1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
   • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
   CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
   Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
   Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.

1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.

1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
   Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.

Installation

1. Lubricate the differential seal.
   • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.

1. CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
   On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
   • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
   NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
   Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).

1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.

1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.

1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
   Install the new bolt and nut.

1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.

1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.

1. CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
   Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
   • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.

1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.

1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.

1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Lower the vehicle.

1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .

If I remember correctly, to remove the RH shaft from a manual version of this car, you don't actually need to remove the part of the shaft that comes out of the gearbox. For an auto, you may have to, but see what it looks like under there, and you'll soon know. With either trans, you'll have to undo the main drive shaft nut (after un-staking the nut with a narrow chisel) and this is easier with 2 people - one to stand on the brake pedal, the other to jump on the breaker bar. This is a normal RH threaded nut - just really tight. Next, the nut has to be removed from the horizontal bolt that goes through the bottom of the RH steering knuckle just above the suspension arm. Once the bolt is removed, you can push down on the suspension arm to disengage the ball joint from the knuckle. Now would be a good time to remove the clip retaining the hydraulic brake line to the strut to avoid stretching the brake line. Next, turn the steering wheel fully to the left, and while pulling the front of the disc outwards as well, tap the drive shaft inwards with a soft (copper or nylon) hammer. If the shaft hasn't rusted in place, this will be easy. If it has rusted, you'll know fairly quickly, and the job has just got a lot more complicated. I won't cover the "worst case scenario" here as it will get messy! Once the outer CV is disengaged, it's just a question of removing the inner CV. For a manual, the inner CV slides onto a splined shaft that runs almost the length of the engine sump and is held into the gearbox by a bracket bolted to the engine block with 3 bolts. These don't need to be removed. With your soft hammer, tap outwards on the inner CV joint while your helper keeps tension on the shaft while rotating it. This will probably be the shaft removed from the car. If your drive shaft is one piece all the way to the gearbox, then you will actually need to lever the inner out of the (auto) trans - also while your helper turns the shaft. Unless you drain it, you will lose some oil when the drive shaft comes out of the box. The manual filler plug is on the other side of the diff, and autos need to be filled from the trans dipstick tube (check while running). A hoist makes this job very much easier.

Dana or Ford axle?

Ford here:
SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Halfshaft
Special Tool(s) Protector, Differential Seal
205-506 Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent Remover, Halfshaft
205-502
Removal and Installation
NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
   With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.
   Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the brake disc.
   1. Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
      • Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
   1. Remove the brake disc.

1. Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

1. CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

1. WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
   Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

1. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.
   CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.
   Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
   1. Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
   1. Remove the special tool.
   1. Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
   1. Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.
   CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.
   NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.
   Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.
   Install the special tool.

1. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle.
   CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.

i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.