Wont start,not fuel problem

what engine,? G16, J20 or H25?
the helper and mech both need this fact, i open hood and just one look. but, you need to say.
what country, the EFI systems vary by , country. Vits are sold all over the world.
ok ill now answer (poorly) on generics. Mr. otto cycles, invention.

1. that is called gross misfiring and stalling.
2. top reason never got a tuneup , nor the 60,000, mile one. ever.
3. and 50 more causes.
4. we do that tests. the tests are like 10 max. not 50. so beats guessing.
5. http://www.fixkick.com/dies.html

in pure physics its a short list and shorter tuned up.

1. lost 12vdc to EFI system. (even a loose IG-coil fusee or FI fuse)
2. lost compression , or stuck open EGR, or melted CAT. cam belt slipped.
3. lost spark (tuneup) time?
4. bad fueling, too much, or tool little. or ISC stuck closed, and stalls. clogged fuel or air filter (tuneup) lots of tests here.......

the tools are cheap, got tools?
meters and gauges, called the mech, set?

2.5L engine? v6.
you broke it , didnt you.
the 2.5L has no belt so its not 2.5L , 2.5L is CHAIN,(i own one same year)
must be a 4 cylinder engine??
and G16>
world wide GV have these engines
1.6 L G16B I4 (petrol)
2.0 L J20A I4 (petrol)
2.5 L H25A V6 (petrol)
2.0 L RF/RFM I4 (diesel)
2.0 L RHW/RHZ I4 (diesel)

only the 1.6BL gas has a belt.
lucky for you its not an INTERFERENCE engine or boom.
I also have A G16 suzuki and know how to time it.
the G16, must be cam timed at #4 cylinder firing, never #1
this is stated in the gates belt page, the FSM and alldata.com
and here.

after changing the belt , i always check that i have my 170psi
compression back (wideopen throttle) or its all just a waste of time.

its not the CKP unplugged, as this engine runs with out one.
fact.
here are all G16b steps.
and nice photos. and the false marks, that is correct, suzuki
gawd love em. uses the cogs on 2 engines. 3cyl and 4cyl.

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html


all pitfalls are here. every one.

what engine, state engine size and country.
there can only be 3 ways, to fail.
bad engine (low compresssion, us the $20 tool at WOT and see over 170psi.
Bad spark
bad fueling.
just because spark coils (COPS?) work on other car , dont mean much.
what counts is your car , its a system.
the cops, have fast 5mS pulse when firing, you using a scope to see that?
Im so curious, why not to the time old test, use a real spark plug
attached to the COP end, spark plug shell grounded to engine metal
and crank, is spark good x4? or x6 if V6 (engine NOT STATED)
is it? then spark is good, leaving fueling.
do not touch the spark plug cranking, it can hit 100,000 volts.
I use a ground strap on the spark plug casing, hands free, or you can be hurt bad, by the spark or when you jump and cut arm backing off
on cars that flood, is it flooding?
I found my engine compression good, then found all 4 sparks fire good.
so i pull the fuel pump relay. killing fueling.
i then use "test fuel" to start engine (again, text book tests)
I use the new CRC brand of test fuel with top end oiling.
i spray it in the plenum, and it starts.
if the spark plugs are bad, (part oftune it up)
it may not start if flooded,
use WOT at the throttle (cuts fuel) and start any flooded engine.
if the spark tips are black and stink of raw fuel (wet with fuel)
that means flooding.
pull the fuel pump relay ,test fuel runs for 3 seconds. each time.
3 second spray max. each time.
if that works out, then find reason for flooding if flooding.
if not flooding, you find dry sparks.
then trouble shoot no fuel.
fuel pressure not near 30 PS?
fuel pressure too high say, 60, it will flood for ever.
there are only 3 tests.
and 4 counting wet /dry sparks.
the tests done, will put you on the correct path every time.
no guessing, no swapping parts to other cars.

(if engine is good, not overheated )
its only 1 of 2 things.
lost spark (do a spark test using , yes, a test good spark plug)
if spark is good on all cyl
then check fueling, if spark plugs not soaked in fuel (tips)
then try test fuel.
if soaked, the op guide says, hold throttle fully open (depressed 100%) this cuts INJECTIONS 100% and you start a flooding motor)

(top reason, no spark) or never tuned up ever.
the mech, knows its 3 reasons.
1: bad engine (loss of compression)
2: bad spark
3 bad fueling, (too little or too much called flooding)
there are 3 simple tests to find why any otto cycle engine will not start.
ask

My first guess would be a leaking fuel pressure regulator or a problem with the injector grounds. The injectors may be "on" too much.
Is the check engine light on when you can get it running ?

maybe slow,cold start,air control valve or,possibly normal for temp in morning,I live in Australia and cars can take ages to slow down in winter eg1 to 3 deg cel...and very quickly warm up in summer..eg....idle slows down in 1/4 time,have a look at the car if you can park it in warmer conds... to see if its quicker as Toyotas do this normally for fast warm up,lastly has it been well serviced...looked after??

If everything is the same - yes I would say check with Suzuki dealership. BUT in most cases the service department and the parts department will say no because they have different part #s. But if you have a good parts man he will do his homework to get the sale.

the fuel filters rot on vitaras, its up by th tank on the off side ,change the filter only a tenner or so

For tropical countries, motor oils with SAE 20W50 viscosity is commonly used. For cold countries, SAE 10W30 viscosity oils are used. You may also use oil of SAE 15W40.