How to remove the sump from a Holden Rodeo 2006 RA 2.4lt engine

USA car or what, learn that all that is smog parts and not the same parts all over earth(countries laws etc,bla bla)_

well if factory stock , is it? we can't see it so....
only the service manual covers the step to drop a pan on any car.
want to read that?

one online manual shows this. pan off

1. Remove the side under cover (refer to Body, Bumpers).
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the front no.1 exhaust pipe.
4. Remove the front no.2 exhaust pipe.
5. Remove the torque converter housing front lower cover.
6. Remove the engine oil pan drain plug.
7. Remove the engine oil pan drain plug gasket.
8. Remove the engine oil pan as follows:
   
   • Remove the engine oil pan mounting bolts
   • remove the engine oil pan
   • Remove the engine oil pan strainer.
   • Remove the engine oil pan strainer gasket.
   • Remove the baffle plate.
   end.

what most do no know is.
the pan must be dropped enough to clear the oil pump and pick up screen booth, so that is problematic. if you understand

here is 1 exception , me, and Jeep 4L, and same words above'
I bought the car dirt cheap near new (my bag) and bad pan. leaking like mad.
this is what I did, and tells you that tricks are not only for kids

• I remove all engine mounts bolts, hood up.
• I jack engine up far from my cross member and rear of head
• almost smacks fire wall, grin.
• I remove all pan bolts (pan drained first)
• I smack it hard with rubber mallet bam' off and falling
• and dang the pump etc will not allow pan to come off( expected)
• I then have son with small hands 14yr old unbolt the pump
• and it falls to bottom of pan (whoooo hooo)
• and pan comes of with funny tilting. me.
• done. (new one in hand) and tricky pump put back pan tinted.

mine the cross member can not be removed. (yours is easy)
if only exh blocked me , i'd have paid for cat back. or as needed)
or cut it off and weld it back ( or ask a SHOP TO) I have TIG here.
MOST CAT HEADERS JUST UNBOLT UNLESS IN THE SALT BELTS ,NORTH AMERICA, SALTED ROADS )
Some headers can be upgraded to SST bolts or or studs
making service easy for ever. stainless steel parts. (bolts)
there are only 4 ways (always your choice and rust sets the rules)
1: the book way above (gactory service manual)
2: jack it up. way. the engine jacked. if exh crosses pan this fails
3: pull engine.
4; cut and weld back. cats

read the engine pages here

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Whether it's an engine oil pan (called the 'sump'' in the UK) or a transmission oil pan the principle is the same on all vehicles.
1. Drain the oil

2. Remove the bolts holding the sump/pan in place:

The oil drain plug, though depending on your vehicle it may look different:
New gasket held in place with sealant
Use a blunt screwdriver -if needed - and prise the oil pan free. remove all traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces.

Use a smear of sealant to hold the new gasket in the correct position on the pan - this will hold it in place when you refit the pan.

Push the pan into position and put in a front bolt finger-tight. Then put in a rear bolt finger-tight.

Putting in the bolts finger-tight allows you to gently 'move' the pan if needed to put the bolts in one at a time.

When all bolts are in, tighten them with a wrench/socket. Then check them all again for tightness.

It isn't actually a big job .. more 'messy' because of the oil.

Having worked on these design nightmares, it's rather difficult. You'll have to use a cherrypicker engine hoist, disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine to get that bit of space. There are just to many suspension and cross member parts in the way otherwise. A repair manual such as Chilton/Haynes from your local parts store (and for your make/model/year) has the step-by-step instructions.

Your will have to hoist the engine before hand and when ready to unbolt the sump from its position,un bolt the engine mount bolts making sure that every thing is safe & no problems will occur also removing engine oils. Then lift the engine up alittle off its mounts & then you should be able to remove the sump successfully away from the cross member & other interferances that are in the way. If you don't have a hoist then a car jack can be used with a small buffer of wood or soft rubber to jack the engine up. But please becareful with your self under there. Remember the energy spent on the job is prepare 90% for your safety then 10 % for the job in hand.

You'll need Hydraulic Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wrench Set, Socket Set with extensions, Screwdrivers, Pliers, HAmemr, Pry bar, Fluid Drain Pan, Light, Rags, Containers to organize nuts and bolts, and possibly an assistant to help you out.
Then follow these steps:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. remove the black plastic air intake to create some room
3. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick and if possible the dipstick tube
4. Remove all brackets, hoses or cables that connect the engine and transmission
5. Locate starter motor and remove easily accessible starter bolts
6. Remove any of the top bell housing to accessible engine bolts
7. Chock rear wheel to raise the front of the vehicle
8. Drain all transmission fluid
9. Put the oil pan back in its position but only tighten the nuts by hand
10. Remove the driveshaft by removing the 4 U-joint bolts that hold the driveshaft to the rear differential
11. Disconnect all electrical connectors and hoses
12. Detach the oil cooler liens of the transmission
13. Remove the starter bolts
14. Remove the torque converter for the flywheel bolts
15. Remove all the bolts and nuts that are holding back the transmission mount
16. Remove the cross member
17. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe
18. Remove the transmission bell housing bolts
19. Now remove transmission from the engine and bring it down to the floor by removing the remaining bell housing bolts.
20. Lastly, remove the torque converter from the transmission
To know more in detail, please refer to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PVog9gD2o

This is on a 4L60-E--Automatic Transmission


This is on a 4L80-E--Automatic Transmission


Hope this helps you ??

What you do is loosen or remove the cross member first

Then you decide,if using a small air driven cut off wheel to
remove some metal from cross member,will help remove
the trans pan in the future.

Yes, you need to pull the engine to remove the oil pan. This requires that you remove the propeller shafts and the third cross member to slide the transmission toward the rear of the vehicle. I suggest you purchase a service manual before you start this process. More than likely the rod bearing for cylinder 1 has failed. This seems to be a common problem with later model 3.5L Trooper engines because the oil pump and oil gallery do not deliver oil as efficiently to the number 1 rod bearing.

Remove engine. Remove oil pan. Remove oil pump.

The simple answer is, bolted to the bottom of the engine. Ford and Lincoln vehicle generally have the cross member right under the engine, so the oil pan is obscured by it. Many oil pans on rear wheel drive Ford products have 2 oil sumps or wells, 1 near the front just behind the belt pulleys, and the other just behind the cross member, this one also has the oil drain plug for oil changes. Not sure why you are looking for the oil pan, so I hope this helps.