It stays in limp mode unless i switch off engine and restart. i have changed the MAF sensor and i checked all the high pressure pipes, they seem all fine. the mechanic cleaned the turbo as well. the read out is inconclusive air pressure what would be the most sensible way to proceed now ?
Limp Mode is the Engine protecting itself as one of the engine sensors has found a fault listed as serious. Are there any warning lights showing on the dashboard?
You will need to get it plugged into a Diagnostic System or an OBD2 scanner to find out if there are any trouble/error codes. This will guide you to what the possible problem is.
Most garages and dealerships will charge for this but you can buy simple and basic OBD2 scanners online.
Please comment below if you need anymore help or how to translate the trouble codes.
Testimonial: "thanks, no lights on dash. has been a few times through diagnostic system and didn't point to anything specific, this is why i wondered what the next likely suspects are.... MAP, N75 and so on ?? there seem so be so many sensors, all resulting in implementing limp mode."
You will need to spend some time with your vehicle alone. Find a long, quiet, straight piece of road. Drive the vehicle in a few different ways...
-Drive it gently and smoothly.
-Try short sections where you accelerate hard and brake hard repeatedly.
-Drive it at a constant higher speed, as you would on a motorway or a freeway.
Look, listen and feel for anything that seems wrong. Things like rough idling, poor acceleration, stuttering when accelerating or at steady speeds.
Does it sound like it normally does?
Can you feel any vibration or feed back through the accelerator pedal?
These will all give clues to the problem.
thanks, i have of course done that. up to 50mph on a straight road ( not going uphill ) it behaves like normal. excellent acceleration and stopping, no stuttering etc. but, once in limp mode it is sluggish, no matter what i do. if i were super critical, i might say, the engine to a little bit noisier, compared to what it was, before this problem. weeks go by, when i do not hit 50mph and just drive around town and the vehicle behaves as if nothing is wrong.
This could be a fuel supply issue. Driving gently at lower speeds means the engine isn’t working very hard. When was the last time the vehicle’s fuel system was fully serviced? Could you describe what you mean by “a little bit noisier”?
I had a similar problem with a diesel Vauxhall (Opel). The previous owner ran “Cheap” bio-diesel, (which is processed cooking oil), And clogged up the fuel filter and injectors.
Try completely stripping the fuel filter out and cleaning out the housing it sits in, then fit a new filter.
When the tank is about a quarter full add a GOOD quality injector cleaner to the fuel and let it sit and idle for 20 minutes. Don’t drive it or ‘Rev up’ the engine because this makes the mixture thin so it doesn’t work as well.
i fitted a new fuel filter a while ago, unfortunately no change. thank you for replying.
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SOURCE: Cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor
i will try to help. 171/174 indicates lean condition in engine. the mass air flow sensor is located in the rubber tube going to throttlebody. you can try to clean it. using mild carb cleaner safe for sensors, remove sensor from tube. spray clean the tiny wires located in the cylinder. do not touch them, they are very delicate. these engines are also notorious for leaking intake gaskets and faulty pcv valves. these will all set these 2 codes. feel free with anymore questions.
SOURCE: slow acceleration, high rpm
This sounds normal to me! The engine will read that rpm when accerlerating lightly. It is the stall of the torque convertor. The oil pressure will always be higher when the rpm's are higher, or when the oil is thicker - cold.
Virbration? That is a different story. Oil won't cause that.
SOURCE: EML, Check Engine, Limp Mode
What is limp mode, and it is MiL light( mal function indicator light)it is not EML. Please specify so i can help
SOURCE: CODE PO102 after Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced
Most faultcodes don't disappear automaticly, the have to be 'reset' manually after repairing. It sounds like the code didn't get erased after replacing the MAF. You could try to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes (disconnect and reconnect the negative (-) pole), which should erase the code.
Whenever the engine light still comes back on after that, there probably still is some (other) problem ...
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This is a problem that can result in needing professional service by a qualified mechanic. It doesn't require expensive dealership technicians. Those big "factory service" logos are nothing but suggestive advertising.
Have you scanned the car for codes yet? Best advice is to CLEAR the codes then drive until the check engine light returns. THEN check for the codes.
DISCLAIMER: Check Engine Codes ARE SYMPTOMS, NOT CURES. It often requires diagnostic procedure to determine the cause of a code. For example: an exhaust leak can throw a code for oxygen sensor even though the oxygen sensor is fine. The computer doesn't know the exhaust pipe is leaking. It just knows that there is too much oxygen in the exhaust.
Scan codes and we can proceed from there.
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