Broken ignition on a 1991 Ford Aerostar 6 cylinder with no security system what's the easiest way to hotwire it so I can drive it home

hotwire is the movies - buy a key and cylinder with out the [chip] security setup from ignition will have no start -- because if you could bypass or "hotwire" wouldnt need keys or security

Well, if it truly is yours, LOL, I would rather spend a few dollars and have it picked and towed. Otherwise, under the steering column rests the ignition switch. Remove it and push the notch where the thin metal is hooked to shaft forward.. that will take care of the first problem . the problem is the Steering. Get a Big Burly person to yank the steering wheel to one side. one side only. It might take a few tries. Then you can go. This the cheapest way. I am without guilt ...

Try spraying carb cleaner around the intake if idle increases it is a bad intake gasket. It also could be a bad plug/s, wires, or low compression in one of the cylinders. At higher idle a slightly lower compression cylinder is not noticeable but after warming up the idle drops causing the cylinder to have a misfire.

The security, antitheft or lock picture/icon is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterprets this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

The security, antitheft, or passlock light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle.
This link may help you find ways to bypass this or fix it yourself.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

1991 Ford Aerostar 3.0 liter V-6 VIN "U"





1991 Ford Aerostar 4.0 liter V-6 VIN "X"




Hope this helps (remember to rate this free answer).

For the 1995 Ford Aerostar Van:

For the 3.0L V6:
Firing Order:
1-4-2-5-3-6
Cylinders:
......(back)......
'..3..'.......'..6..'
'..2..'.......'..5..'
'..1..'.......'..4..'
.......(front)
Ignition Coil Connections:
(back)
3...4
2...6-This is correct!
1...5
(front)

For the 1995 Ford Aerostar Van:
I do not know if you have the 3.0L V6 or the 4.0L V6; however I have included both below.

For the 3.0L V6
Firing Order:
1-4-2-5-3-6
Cylinders:
......(back)......
|..3..|.......|..6..|
|..2..|.......|..5..|
|..1..|.......|..4..|
.......(front)
Ignition Coil Connections:
(back)
3...4
2...6-This is correct!
1...5
(front)

For the 4.0L V6:
Firing Order:
1-4-2-5-3-6
Cylinders:
........(back)........
|...3...|.......|...6...|
|...2...|.......|...5...|
|...1...|.......|...4...|
.........(front)
Ignition Coil Connections:
..(back)
1...2...3
5...6...4- This is also correct!
..(front)

Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Take the doghouse out of the cab of the van (the cloth piece behind where you put the car in Drive, Park, Nuetral, etc). There you should see all your plug wires, your distributor cap, under that your rotor.. and under that your distributor.
Pretty self explanatory on how to get it off, its just a tight squeeze. Good luck

Resistive cottection between PIP (pin6) wire and connector at the ignition module. Cleaned and soldered wire to connector pin. Runs fine.