Here are a few methods of how to do this, please read carefully! Method 1
Open the hood.
Locate the red coil wire. Both
the plug and coil wires are located at the rear of almost all V-8
engines. Four-cylinder engines have them placed on the right side, near
the center of the engine. Six-cylinder engines are the opposite: left
side, near the center of the engine .
Locate the battery (it's the thing that looks like a battery).
Run a wire from the positive side of the battery (not negative!)
to either the positive side of the coil, or the red wire that leads to
the coil. This will give power to the dashboard, which is essential if
you ever want it to start.
Locate the starter solenoid. On Fords, it is on the passenger-side fender well, near the battery. On GMs, it is on the starter under the steering wheel.
If under the steering wheel, enter the car without setting off any alarms. If it has standard transmission, make sure the car is in neutral and the parking brake is on.
Unlock the steering wheel by taking a flat blade screwdriver and placing it at the top center of the steering column.
Push the screwdriver between the wheel and the column, then push the
locking pin away from the wheel. Don't worry, you're allowed to be
rough here. The locking pin will not break or set off any alarms. The
solenoid should be underneath.
You will see a small wire at the top of the solenoid and the positive battery cable below.
Cross the two different terminal that they are connected to with a
screwdriver or pliers. This will crank the engine, giving you leave to
Enter car. Do not break into a
car unless you own it and have documentation to prove it. Be aware that
forced entry will set an intrusion alarm off if the vehicle is so
Determine if the steering column and gear selector can be overridden, if so equipped.
Serious damage to the shifting mechanism and/or steering column will
result in forcing these theft deterrant mechanisms in an attempt to
Look under steering wheel. This
may require taking an access cover off. These are usually held in place
with concealed clips or #2 Phillips type screws. Remove if needed.
See if there is a clip or wiring harness connector in which you can gain access to the wires behind the ignition.
Look for the two wires that are the same, usually red and strip them and twist them together.
One of these will be the primary power supply for the ignition switch,
the other will be the connection for the vehicles electrical circuits
that are energised when the key is turn to the run position. Connecting
these will provide electricity for the ignition components, so the
engine is able to run when the starter is turned.
Strip about 1 inch of insulation from this pair of wires, and twist them tightly together. Wrap with electrician's tape if available, and do not allow them to short against metal vehicle components.
Get the ignition wire, brown in
many cars, strip it about 1/2 inch, and touch the end of the stripped
brown wire with the connected red wires.
Do not twist the brown wire to the reds, just touch the wires until ignition has been achieved.
Rev the engine enough so you don't stall and have to do this process again.
This is the most effective method due to the fact that you don't
need to bother keeping wires together, raising the hood, or unlocking
the steering wheel. If you hotwire it with the wires only, your
steering wheel WILL NOT TURN unless you break the steering lock. The
"classic screwdriver method" where you put a screwdriver in the lock
and twist doesn't work because you can't generate enough torque with
your bare hands to make the lock pins break off without breaking the
lock off of its mounting structure, thereby rendering the car useless.
Use this method instead.
Gather materials: 1 flathead screwdriver with an insulated handle, 1 cordless drill and a small drill bit.
Take it from an expert: So,
there is a flap at the end of the keyhole. Position the drill on the
keyhole about 2/3 of the way up and drill in about the length of a key.
This will destroy your lock pins and make the key switch able to be
turned on and off without a key. Every pin has 2 sections, followed by
a spring, so drill it more than once, removing the drill each time to
allow the bits of the lock inside to fall into place.
Put the screwdriver in the same way
you would put your key in, it doesn't have to go in deep because the
pins are already broken.
Use it the same way you use your key, just turn it.
Warning: this method will destroy your key switch and make it so
anyone with a screwdriver or an exceptionally strong fingernail to
steal your car.
Use this knowledge responsibly.
Vehicles with a computer chip in the ignition switch cannot be hot
wired, the chip enables the ECM to function, and without it, the car
will not run.
You risk causing significant damage to your vehicle if you hotwire it.
Never leave the ignition wires twisted together when you finish
running the engine. This can burn up the ignition system of the
vehicle, and will at least discharge the battery.
If the ignition wires separate while driving, the engine will
instantly die, and you may find yourself without power, steering, or
Don't use this in an illegal manner, such as to steal a car. Chances are you'll be caught, and prison is not a fun place.
Thank you for using FixYa! Have a nice day and please remember to rate this solution.
I doubt the Sea Foam had anything to do with that. I'd check for a vacuum hose off, especially by the PCV valve. Maybe a broken hose or the PCV valve itself might be stuck. Maybe just put a new one in, they are not that spendy. No vacuum would explain the brakes not working.
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Question 90 Cadillac sedan deville 4.5L My car won't turn over all the power is gettin to the vehicles dash tried the trouble shooting it said it was the ECM memory reset so I changed the ECM computer and it is still doin the same thing some people say it might b the saftey neutral switch but i want to no from someone with experience opinion. I have changed the ignition module and the ECM computer recently and it still does nothing
Answer Hi Chris, The code E52 just means that the ECM lost power or ground or that someone forgot to clear the code after hooking the battery back up. It could mean a bad computor but not very often. 2 things that come to mind is a bad ignition key or lock cylinder or a faulty neutral safety switch. Try the other ignition key first. Then with your foot on the brake pedal hold the key in the start position and move the shifter slowly from P to D. If it tries to start then the NS Switch is bad or out of adjustment. If it still won't start then you will need to troubleshoot the ignition key/PASS KEY system for an open wire in the steering column. Hope that helps. Bill
The Cadillac service manual says for the B terminal is a tan/black wire, for the E terminal is a white wire , for the R terminal is a purple/white colors may have faded! Any more trouble I got the book!
Using a 1⁄8 in. (3mm) diameter wire pin or a small drift, depress the lock cylinder retaining pin through the access hole in the upper steering column shroud (under the ignition lock cylinder) while pulling out on the lock cylinder. Remove the lock cylinder from the column. .
Fig. 1: Using the key, turn the ignition lock cylinder to the RUN position, then depress the retaining pin using a wire pin or small drift
There are no wires to your key and tumbler. All the key does is pull a rod that is connected to the ignition switch, which is at the bottom of your steering column. I suppose if there is no "chip" on your key, and you can get the steering wheel to turn, you could pull on that rod to get it running.
Did you put the push rods back in same as they came out? On some they have short and long, like short for intake and long for exhaust, or visa versa. Thats what it sounds like to me, you got the push rods in the wrong spots.