Question about 2007 Cadillac SRX
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
wow i feel sorry for you because Cadillac designed this bulb to be a don't get to bulb but OK here's what you do take the bottom cover off or skid plastic panel under neath the front end theirs little plastic clips holding it on just get come dikes and don't cut them but just use it to help pull them out. after you get that off use a flash light and locate your light housing you should see two screws holding the house in i think those screws are 8mm i cant remember remove those two screws and be careful the metal from the bumper cuts you pull the light housing out and remove all the screws around the housing and open the housing up replace the bulb and make sure your contact to the bulbs clean and then reassemble the way you took apart. if you cant get it well then best bet is take it somewhere i know Cadillac charges an arm and a leg so you can go somewhere else.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
First determine where coolant loss comes from. I would not continue driving, till that step is isolated, or further damage will be done
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
SOURCE: While driving on the highway
I guess what happened was that fuel was completely cut off to the
engine and I got the flashing lights and loss of power steering.
Basically my engine shut off while my car was still on. I'm guessing
the hard shift was due to a significant difference in crankshaft speed
and the speed of the gear. All kinds of funny stuff happen when your
engine loses power so the shift is surely just a result of the engine.
I don't think the transmission is the problem here.
From others experience, if you have one fault code, can send more details.
From the symptoms and the code:
2-3-1 .. Adaptive HO2S Control, Engine Running Too Lean At Part Load
i would agree; sounds like your engine basically ran out of gas.
So the question is why? Since it's obviously intermittent, we should suspect electrical components. It could be a lot of things (fuel pump nearing the end of its life, obstruction in fuel filter, loose connection somewhere, etc.) but if i were a betting man, i would put my chips on the fuel pump relay.
How many miles on this ride? Been tuned recently? Hope helped.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
First you have to take out the one and only screw in the rear hatch door - it's where the hand pull down is you use to close the hatch.
Then you have to pop all the plastic clips all the way around the plastic door panel, trying not to pull them out from the frame . If you do pull out the white plastic plugs from the frame you better make certain you take them off the plastic housing and insert them back into their frame holes - or you will never get the housing back on.
Once you have the housing loose disconnect the inside tail gate light wire to remove the whole thing. Then you have to remove 7 to 8 nuts from the back of entire License plate, back up bulb housing using a deep socket to get in there. Work it loose from the rear of the car and it will come out just enough to work on the lights.
This is tricky since the screw mounts don't give you much room to work with.
Once you have the license plate and back up bulb frame loose you will see the two housings for the license plate bulbs on top.
Slide out the license plate bulb lens and twist the bulb connection to remove the bulbs.
Replace both of them - you don't want to do this again in a month when the other one blows.
Once you take out the bulbs you might see that the housing is melted where the bulb wanted to burn through. Drill two small holes one is each end of the housing before I put everything back together to release some of the heat.
Reverse the whole process to put everything back together. It's not easy.
Make sure you insert the cables through the opening for the hatch handle or it will kink and not work properly.
The bulbs come in a two pack of cost $4.95 .
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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