SOURCE: MAF Sensor 2004 Dodge Stratus
If your car has a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, it would be located in the air delivery tube that runs from the air filter box to the throttle plate assembly on the intake manifold. It will have a wiring connector going to it, also. The MAF does exactly what it is called: It "senses" the volume, or "mass" of the air-flow; thusly it needs to be in the intake air tube. If you do NOT have such a device in the air-tube, you have a MAP sensor, (Manifold Absolute Pressure); this is another way of measuring the same air volume, albeit older technology. You will commonly find this device on the firewall, with a vacuum line running to the intake manifold.
I hope that this sheds some light on your question.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for advice!
SOURCE: will start then dies
On the regals they have a ceramic resistor on the passanger side under the fender. It heats up and over time it tends to brake and the wire inside tends to rust away. The fuel pumps run in 2 different speeds. Had the same problem. Dealer only part yet the car would run and you would think it was the fuel pump. Turn the key it kicks on then start and dies out. Ceramic on the pass side would need replaced. It is white about 2-3 inches long or so held on with 2 bolts i do believe. Ill find a bulliten i found online to help me diagnos the problem. :) hopefully this helps someone out instead of spendin $$$ that ya cant afford with the recession eh?
SOURCE: after changing fuel pump 2 days ago on my 97
You can test the MAF before replacing. It may be a problem with the circuit itself or just a fluke from another problem that is connected to this sensor.
There are two basic types of mass airflow sensors: hot wire and hot
film. In the first type, a very thin wire (about 0.2 mm thick) is used
as the heated element.
Components of a hot wire-type mass airflow sensor. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
The element temperature is set at 100° to 200°C above
incoming air temperature. Each time the ignition switch is turned to
the off position, the wire is heated to approximately 1,000°C for 1
second to burn off any accumulated dust and contaminants.
The second type uses a nickel foil sensor, which is kept 75°C
above ambient air temperatures. It does not require a burn-off period
and therefore is potentially longer lasting than the hot wire type.
A faulty MAF will cause driveability problems resulting from incorrect ignition timing and improper air/fuel ratios.
Vane-type MAF Sensors
A vane-type MAF sensor is found on many import and domestic vehicles
with EFI. All intake air must flow through the sensor. Some MAF sensors
are called volume air flow meters
A voltmeter connected to measure the signal from a MAF sensor. Reproduced with permission from Fluke Corporation.
Move the MAF sensor air vane from open to close to test it. Reproduced with permission from Fluke Corporation.
WARNING
While pushing the mass air flow sensor vane open and closed, be careful not to mark or damage the vane or sensor housing.
Ohmmeter connections to a MAF sensor. Reprinted with permission.
Resistance specifications for a typical MAF sensor with door open and closed. Reprinted with permission.
The trace of a defective vane-type MAF sensor. Reproduced with permission from Fluke Corporation.
Hot-Wire-Type MAF Sensors
The test procedure for heated resistor and hot-wire MAF sensors
varies depending on the vehicle make and year. Always follow the test
procedure in the appropriate service manual. A frequency test may be
performed on some MAF sensors, such as the AC Delco MAF on some General
Motors' products.
Satisfactory and unsatisfactory MAF sensor frequency readings. Reproduced with permission from Fluke Corporation.
A normal trace for a frequency-varying MAF sensor. Courtesy of Progressive Diagnostics--WaveFile AutoPro.
The trace of a defective frequency-varying MAF sensor. Courtesy of EDGE Diagnostics Systems.
There is also a
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Burn-Off Module Operation:
A semi-conductor control for an electronic-ignition system.
SOURCE: 1992 vortec v6 motor getting spark and strong fuel
the probem is probably in the injector assembly whichis under the intake plenum.after removing it you will se the plastic tubes and ijector popit valves unlike actual individual injectors.this whole contraption must be replaced as an assembly.you can get repair manuals from this site or go to you library.it may actually be flooding as these had problems with leaking fuel pressure regulators which i think are also only part of the whole assembly.
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