Spare wheel crank mechanism won't engage. How many sections should there be?

Hi Beth usually when shifter is stuck there is a locking mechanism and keeps shifter from engaging unless brake is depressed to release the lock. If you hear a clicking sound when pedal is depressed then switch is probably ok and its probably the steering wheel lock. First try with your spare key to start the vehicle(old key may be worn ). If that doesn't do it then try with WD 40 a very little in ignition key hole or on the key work it slowly and see what happens. If none of these suggestions work its probably the steering wheel lock and that requires surgery. Keep me post best of luck

You need to have your flywheel: replaced.Your starter motor engages against the fly wheel at the back of the motor. Every time your motor stops it tends to be in the same few positions (just the way things work) so there is more stress on some parts of your fly wheel than others. Because of this the teeth wear out on the fly wheel which means the starter can correctly engage on the fly wheel which is the grinding noise.

Must not have been much of a mechanic. If the engine runs and sounds fine sometimes and other times it doesn't then it does not sound like a mechanical problem with the engine. Sounds more like a issue with either the ignition system or fuel system.

when you state it wouldn't crank, do you mean the starter won't engage or that it just spins over and doesn't start? if no gauges or no starter engagement, then check the battery, battery connections,and the starter for excessive amperage draw. if the starter spins and the engine won't start, then check crankshaft position sensor first. the crank sensor is a more common failure than the distributor or any of the other things you mentioned.

have you checked the front hubs are engaged or engaging

HMMMM thinking aloud here ,_-_--hmmm right have you run a hot wire from + on battery to the small terminal on the starter if so and it cranks then its either starter relay or the ignition switch ,but if starter turns ok with the hot wire then before you go any further try the spare key if still no joy with spare key then its electrical fault if it starts with teh spare key then your other key has lost its chip or been close to a mobile phone or TV screen and blanked the magnetic bar code .

Sounds like the starter drive is not fully engaging with the fly wheel... might try to tap firmly on the body of the starter while you turn the key but be careful not to hit the wires... Might get you going enough to get to a garage and have it checked. good luck!

Quadratrack transfer units work by way of an internal fluid coupler (same as your mechanical clutch fan but bigger) It is always on but not always engaged. It engages when the rear wheels start to slip.
It should lock in low range though. (in low range you should not drive over 15mph).
if the front wheels won't engage at all, then either there is something wrong inside the transfer case or inside the front differential. Both are usually noisy if they have failed but I've seen some that the ring gear has been removed as well as the driveshaft (sometimes) after the diff has failed, so it can be driven. Find another shop that's more familiar with that unit and have them take a look at it if you don't see anything obvious.

There are 2 rods located under the carpet behind the passenger rear seat and a jack crank handle located inside the hatch on the drivers side near the tailgate. Open the rear door. At the top of the bumper (normally covered by the rear door) is a small hole. Insert the assembly into the hole until you have it engaged with the slot inside. Crank counter clockwise until your spare is on the ground. Once on the ground, remove the spare tire retainer, pulll the tire out and that should be it.

• Remove the retainer from the center of the wheel by turning it sideways and pushing it through the center of the tire.

If the spare tire does not lower to the ground,the secondary latch is engaged
causing the tire not to lower Your vehicle has an underbody-mounted tire hoist
assembly equipped with a secondary latch system.It is designed to stop the spare
tire from suddenly falling off your vehicle if the cable holding the spare tire
is damaged.For the secondary latch to work,the tire must be stored with the
valve stem pointing up.
1.Check under the vehicle to see if the cable is visible.If it is not visible
proceed to Step 6.
2.If visible,first try to tighten the cable by turning the wheel wrench clockwise
until you hear two clicks or feel it skip twice.You cannot overtighten the cable.
3.Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise three or four turns.
4.Repeat this procedure at least two times.If the spare tire lowers to the ground
continue with Step 2 of removing the Spare.
5.Turn the wrench counterclockwise until approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is
exposed.
6.Attach the jack handle,extension and the wheel wrench to the jack and place it under
the vehicle towards the front of the rear bumper.Position the center lift point of the
jack under the center of the spare tire.
7.Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it lifts the end fitting.
8.Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops moving upward and is held firmly
in place.
9.Lower the jack by turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise.Keep lowering the jack
until the spare tire slides off the jack or is hanging by the cable.
10.Disconnect the jack handle from the jack and carefully remove the jack.Use one hand
to push against the spare while firmly pulling the jack out from under the spare tire
with the other hand.