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Dec 23, 2010 - Forums > Vehicle Specific > 100 Series > ... The power loss noted in advance of thewarning light illuminating is only periodic - the engine power is always ... Map. Will get it flashed out and come back to you...if i can work out how to .... Has had everthing done by the manufacturers andauto elects but no joy.
Loss of power under hard acceleration
Mar 3, 2017
The Cruiser won't start "CLICK"
Aug 5, 2013
Loss of power
Oct 4, 2011
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SOURCE: 4 Faults detected on engine diagnostics check
Try first unplugging battery cable for ten minutuse, to reset ECM, and do a scan again, there are too many unrelated error codes at the same time
SOURCE: toyota landcruiser ignition switch
I am not 100% sure on toyota but most ignition switches you must remove the housing around the steering wheel to get to it . Its usually a large plastic componet on the left side behind the turn signal handle . It is always best to go to the local auto parts store and buy a haynes repair manual before attempting any repairs. Hope evereything turns out well for you !!
SOURCE: toyota landcruister automatic transmission oil in radiator how do
the trans cooler inside the radiator is leaking, replace the radiator or have it repaired.
SOURCE: landcruiser auto transmission,,how to check fluid level
when you open your hood look in the back of the motor on the left side.. you should see a stick with a circle on the end of it for your finger have you vehicle running warmed up that means let it run for 10 or 15 min. and then pull the stick out.. wipe it off real good. stick it back in all the way.. pull it back out and hold it horizontally and check it.. it's sometimes hard to read because it has bubbles on it.. try it a couple of times to get an accurate reading good-luck ray
SOURCE: head light not working on high beam
When dealing with wiring on a vehicle, it can go from something real simple, to something real complicated, in a hurry!
1.Checked to make sure the headlights have high beam? Bulbs are good in that respect? Not trying to insult your intelligence, but sometimes it's the simple things we overlook. Again, not trying to sound 'Uppity', but do you have access to a type of jumper wire, that has a needle type of tip on both ends? This way you can stick the needle tip, into the wire that has 'juice' for the low beam side of the headlight, and touch the high beam side. See if the high beam comes on.
2.Sometimes it's as simple as a bad ground. There is a wire, or wires, that come out of the headlight wire loom, and have a rounded metal terminal end. A machine screw, goes through the hole in this rounded metal terminal end, and fastens it to the metal sheet metal of the body.
The metal frame of a vehicle, and the metal sheet metal, is the ground for a vehicle.
A lot of times, where this rounded metal terminal end is fastened to the sheet metal, (Or frame), rust can develop between them. Between the metal terminal end, and the sheet metal. This makes a bad contact for grounding.
There is enough of a ground source for low beam headlights, but not enough for the additional draw of the high beams.
3.In the headlight wire loom, there is a Fusible Link. This looks like a 1, or 2, or 3 inch large bump in the wire. This fusible link is designed to melt inside, and break contact, should it need to. Sometimes it's readily apparent when you view this fusible link. It will have the plastic covering melted on one side, or partially around. Sometimes it's not so obvious. (Isn't wiring fun(?)
You just have to use the probes, (Needle tip is real nice here), on a multimeter, (Set to DC voltage, and the 50 volt scale), and track from battery to headlight switch, to headlights.
4.Lastly, it may be the headlight switch itself.
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