I don't hear any clicking as others have noticed which indicated the blend/recycle motor was bad and when they replaced it the noise stopped and everything worked.
I have replaced more faulty HVAC actuators that were not clicking. Those noises you speak of, may indicate a binding door inside the HVAC box causing the gears to skip and strip. These actuators receive a command from the HVAC controller and send position data back to the controller. The feedback data should be within 1 or 2 counts of the command or request. This data can only be read with a scan tool that can show live data. Your local parts store may have this type scan tool to save you from having to pay for diag. at a shop. If you have a B or Body DTC or code it may be from the HVAC controller telling of feedback error in that actuator. HVAC actuators fail often. It would not be out of line to go ahead and swap it with a new part or a known good one. Just don't plug it in until you have installed it. Most vehicles use the same part number actuator in all positions. You may pull your own mode actuator and install it on the passenger blend position as a diagnostic exercise. I would swap the suspected part with a new one and save all that wrench time. Best of Luck!
SOURCE: Clicking noise coming from under
You have a blend door motor that bad. The clicking noise is probably the motor turing and grinding the gears...Prob should take too a shop for a diag to be sure...Some of them things are pretty hard to get to
SOURCE: clicking noise behind right side second row seat
I had the same problem. There are two regulators and the one that determines air direction is broken. The door inside is hung up and it strips the gears in the regulator. You can leave all the seats in the car but you have to remove several panels on the inside to get to the regulator. Many or them pry off. This can be risky if you are not careful and you may decide you don't want to risk it. Others need bolts removed (around the seatbelts) to remove. If you get to that point you will find two regulators that are white in color. They are anchored by 4 screws (i think) and come right out. Determine you have the proper one by toggling the face/floor button. You can follow the noise. The real problem here is with the door that hangs up. Mine hung up because the whole assembly was anchored against a big wiring harness on the back side that cracked the whole casing. Bad engineering. You may have to remove some sharp cracked pieces so the door moves easily. Problem is that you now will have a hole in your AC/Heating unit. You can replace that as well (expensive) or seal it some other way. By the new regulator from Ford and reassemble and you're done. If you are handy it should take you a couple of hours. My bro had the same problem on his Explorer and we fixed it much quicker the second time around. If you are not handy, you might want to reconsider.
SOURCE: cold air on passenger side warm air on drivers side
Actuator motors either get a tear in the rubber or a hose is broken and not letting vacuum assist in its opening.
You can try moving the lever by hand and see if the air gets colder on the bad side.
SOURCE: driver's side air blowing warm, won't change
Sounds like there is a crack in the vent that leads to the drivers side, and hot air from the engine is leaking through.
SOURCE: All of a sudden, my 2004 Ford Taurus heater
The valve (called the heater tap) which controls the hot water flow works from engine vacuum. The climate control unit turns vacuum on to close the valve and turns vacuum off to open it, if the vacuum tubing or vacuum service valve has failed, the tap will be open allowing hot water to flow. The same result applies if the heater valve itself has failed (which they do --regularly) Trace the water hoses from the enginebay firewall under the hood and you should find the valve. Check for cavuum at the valve with the climate control set to its coldest setting. If you have vacuum at the valve, replace the valve. No vacuum points to the loss of vacuum source or a faulty vacuum service valve with will be electrically operated from the climate control. Trace the vacuum hose from the heater valve back to the vacuum service valve and check if the valve has vacuum supplied to it. No vacuum means a vacuum hose has blocked, has a hole in it or has been removed from the manifold. If the electrical valve has vacuum, check for power. If power is present but still no vacuum at the heater tap, replace the service valve. If power missing, check fuses. If both wires to the valve show power present, have the climate controll unit checked by a professional..
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