Question about 2002 Subaru Forester
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Since ignition timing is taken care of by the ECU, I guess you are asking about cam timing.
There are several marks to be aligned and if you get them wrong, you may trash your engine so I am only going to suggest you buy a Haynes service manual that has numerous good pix that show you exactly how to avoid killing your engine. And, unless you have a good-size vice well-mounted, compressing the belt tensioner again is going to give you fits.
The Haynes number you need is 89100 but it is listed only as a manual for the Legacy which uses the same engine but there may be less info that is usable on your '98 forester for which Haynes does not make a specific manual.
The later book that I have, 89101, covers all models from 2000 to 2006.
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
This is not a trivial job. I would recommend you get all four bulbs for
whatever side you are replacing - do them all. The dealer-dude didn't
have the orange turn-signal bulb in stock, and said they don't see too
many replaced. I guess thats probably right since it was about ten
years ago when I last saw someone actually use their turn signal.
So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.
Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones. Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.
The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3 additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting - This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.
The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to gently use channel locks to do this.
When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.
Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed from the enclosure.
Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden.
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
Yes you can however I would check with my insurance company first and second check with the dealer as most of them will do this free.
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
do the plugs yerself, on a turbo model they are awkward but worth saving your money. you need to take out the air box to do that side (off side in uk) get your plug socket 16mm, and fit it in to the plug (after you take off the leads!) then depending on length of your socket you may need an extention, i use the short swivel adaptor thingy!.. and slowly undo, ... gap to 0.7 - 0.8 on a turbo, 0.6 if your running high boost on a modded model, .............the other side (near side in uk) you got to take out the battery and the washer bottle, be careful with the pipework under the bottle and connections. .... there is not alot of room to change plugs on a 16valve subaru....so have a swear box and plasters ready lol....DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!!.... BECOMES A PROBLEM TO GET A BROKEN PLUG OUT ON THESE!...
I have just started a new club, www.forestercarclub.co.uk and www.forums.forestercarclub.co.uk ... based in uk, needs members to kick start, ask me any questions too. :) also have a page on google sites https://sites.google.com/site/subaruforesterdriverclub/
Posted on Feb 29, 2012
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