Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS
Knowing how it works is key , the ignition switch is a low voltage input to the BCM - body control module . When the BCM see's start input it sends a message over the serial data network to the PCM / ECM - engine computer . When the engine computer reads this message it will energize the crank relay sending B+ voltage to the S terminal on the starter solenoid ,there by cranking the engine . Taking to a qualified repair shop that has a factory or professional scan tool to read BCM DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes is what you should do , before you cause more problems .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) through discrete inputs from the ignition transducer that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The ECM/PCM receives a 12-volt signal from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch or clutch pedal start switch notifying that it is safe to start the engine. There is a splice on this circuit in the fuse block-underhood that supplies power for the starter relay coil. The starter relay coil control circuit is then grounded by the ECM/PCM closing the switch in the starter relay suppling 12 volts to the S-terminal of the starter. Ground is supplied through the engine block.
Posted on Feb 16, 2019
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
this is probably a safety. no explosion, shut down. check to make sure no wires were cut/damaged and look in the trunk for an emergency shut off. there might also be a shut down relay onboard. if there is it's under the hood in the relay box.
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
SOURCE: I HAVE A 1995 ISUZU
Could be one of two things.
1. Your starter motor is no good.
2. If you turn on your lights and try to start the car and they dim to almost black, then you need to check the battery connections.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
Could be a problem with key in ignition switch located on the side of the lock cylinder inside steering column. The one I worked on this was part of whats called clockspring assembly witch will be a dealer only part. Then you cut the two wire swtch off and splice it in so you don't have to remove steering wheel and replace the whole clockspring assembly. Might also be problem with ignition switch (inside column) that key lock cylinder ingages into. I have a couple of questions. Is power going to the dash and just not the starter? Is the security light on all the time and dosn't cycle out? There should be a anti theft reset precedure like leaving key on till light goes out. Good luck hope this helped
Posted on Apr 22, 2010
SOURCE: I have a 95 firebird.
It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks
Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.
It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
2003-2007 Hummer H2
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1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1996-2002 Trans Am
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
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1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
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1995-1996 Impala SS
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1994-1999 Deville Concours
1997-1999 Deville D'Elegance
1994-2002 ElDorado Touring
Posted on Feb 17, 2011
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