Question about 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

1 Answer

Have an 06 cobalt ss power on with key no crank, bypass clutch switch and jumped relay car starts and runs and drives. Turn off with key and try start with key no crank no click. Has new started and all fuses are good. Any ideas?

Posted by on

  • Doug Weighill Feb 14, 2019

    Also no warning lights come on on the dash when you turn the key on.

  • Doug Weighill Feb 14, 2019

    Bypassed it

×

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Chevrolet Master
  • 959 Answers

Knowing how it works is key , the ignition switch is a low voltage input to the BCM - body control module . When the BCM see's start input it sends a message over the serial data network to the PCM / ECM - engine computer . When the engine computer reads this message it will energize the crank relay sending B+ voltage to the S terminal on the starter solenoid ,there by cranking the engine . Taking to a qualified repair shop that has a factory or professional scan tool to read BCM DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes is what you should do , before you cause more problems .

Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) through discrete inputs from the ignition transducer that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The ECM/PCM receives a 12-volt signal from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch or clutch pedal start switch notifying that it is safe to start the engine. There is a splice on this circuit in the fuse block-underhood that supplies power for the starter relay coil. The starter relay coil control circuit is then grounded by the ECM/PCM closing the switch in the starter relay suppling 12 volts to the S-terminal of the starter. Ground is supplied through the engine block.

Posted on Feb 16, 2019

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
bryant329
  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: Won't start or crank after wreck.

this is probably a safety. no explosion, shut down. check to make sure no wires were cut/damaged and look in the trunk for an emergency shut off. there might also be a shut down relay onboard. if there is it's under the hood in the relay box.

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A 1995 ISUZU

Could be one of two things.

1. Your starter motor is no good.
2. If you turn on your lights and try to start the car and they dim to almost black, then you need to check the battery connections.

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: I drive a 2005 Chevy CObalt SS-S and it won't start.

starter could be bad or battery could be bad, live in cold weather conditions or warm humid conditions?

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: 2007 cobalt will not start or turn over. key

Could be a problem with key in ignition switch located on the side of the lock cylinder inside steering column. The one I worked on this was part of whats called clockspring assembly witch will be a dealer only part. Then you cut the two wire swtch off and splice it in so you don't have to remove steering wheel and replace the whole clockspring assembly. Might also be problem with ignition switch (inside column) that key lock cylinder ingages into. I have a couple of questions. Is power going to the dash and just not the starter? Is the security light on all the time and dosn't cycle out? There should be a anti theft reset precedure like leaving key on till light goes out. Good luck hope this helped

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

judd0081
  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 95 firebird.

It's when the security light starts flashing that the infamous "chip" in the key becomes a nightmare to many. Gradually the car begins not cranking anymore or if it cranks it would start and die in a second. Randomly it will do this more and more often until it won't start anymore. VATS, PASSkey and Passlock immobilizer systems are killing cars all over North America, they have a short lifespan and are certainly more effective against owners than thieves. Here is how you save your car
1st trick, Try a spare key that is newer or used less. The pins wear down and so do the keys causing security fail. 2nd trick, (if not starting) turn the key forward 2 clicks till right before it would normally start, leave like that for 10 minutes. ( no less ) After 10 minutes, turn key back then forward and your car might start. I did this in my regal for more than a year. If its shutting down while running, im sorry i have no quick fix... If anything on this page helps you, please remember to comment or give me a thumbs up on the myfixya sight so i can have a better rating to help more people on this. Thanks

Cheap fix: Bypass the chip in your key. Temporary, but effective. Until the TDM (theft deterrent module) in the dash poops out, then you're kinda screwed. I was told that these types of key security systems have a 7-10 year life span. Sucks for us. This link explains the "Key Issue" pretty well.
----- http://vats.likeabigdog.com/


Never worry again fix: Bypass the whole VATS/Passlock/passkey I or passkey II system entirely. Literally take it out, and throw it away. I just did this in my Regal. Took about an hour. Took longer to find the thing than it did to fix the problem. They sell a unit for 200 bucks to totally bypass this system FOREVER. life time-money back and all that. Finally did this in my car. Well worth the 200 if you've looked into getting this replaced... Anywhere from 600-1000 bucks. If you do buy this, please purchase it thru this link. The cost is the same, but i get credit for the sale and im trying to earn my money back, as you will be able to do if you buy fron NewRockies and join the free affiliate program. Thanks
----- http://newrockies.ca?ap_id=judd0081 ----- With this fix, you can take that whole Vats, passlock, passkey system out of your car all together. Good info on both sites.

It works for:
Any GM or Isuzu Vehicle with VATS or PASSKey or PASSLock security systems.
If your car has the chip in the key or in the lock cylinder, then you can save it with this Full Bypass.
Trucks
.
GMC/Chevy
1998-2006 S10/T10/Sonoma
/Blazer/Jimmy
1998-2007 Suburban/Avalanche
/Tahoe/Yukon
1998-2006 Sierra/Silverado
2002-2008 Trailblazer
2003-2006 SSR
1998-2006 C1500/C2500/C3500
1998-2006 K1500/K2500/K3500
2003-2007 Hummer H2
.
Isuzu
1998-2000 Hombre
2005-2006 I280/I350
2007-2008 I290/I370
.
Cars/Vans
.
Isuzu
2003-2007 Ascender
.
Pontiac
1994-2003 Grand Prix
1998-1999 Montana
2006 Torrent
1996-2005 Grand AM
1994-1998 Trans Sports
1988-1999 Bonneville
1988-2002 Firebird
1995-2005 Sunfire
1996-2002 Trans Am
.
Buick
2004-2007 Rainier
1994-2005 Century
1993-2004 Regal
1982-1999 LeSabre
1991-1996 Park Avenue / Ultra
1994-1996 Roadmaster
1991-1996 Roadmaster Estate Wagon
1982-1999 Riviera
1988-1991 Reatta
1996-1998 Skylark
1982-1990 Electra (all models)
.
Oldsmobile
1996-1998 Achieva
1999-2004 Alero
1994-2004 Aurora
1998-2004 Bravada
1991-1993 Delta 88
1994-1999 Eighty-Eight
1991-1996 Nighty-Eight
1998-2002 Intrigue
1990-1992 Toronado
1994-1997 Cutlass Supreme
1997-1999 Cutlass
1997-1999 LSS/Regency
1997-1999 Silhouette
1991-1996 Custom Cruiser
.
Chevrolet/GMC
1998-2005 Astro/Safari
1998-2008 Envoy
2005-2006 Equinox
1998-2007 Savana/Express
1995-2005 Monte Carlo
1997-1999 Venture
1995-2001 Lumina
1988-2002 Camaro
1995-2005 Cavalier
1982-2004 Corvette
1994-1996 Caprice/Caprice Wagon
1995-1996 Impala SS
2000-2005 Impala
1997-2005 Malibu Classic
1997-2003 Malibu
.
Cadillac
1986-1993 Allante
1982-1996 Fleetwood
1985-1996 Fleetwood Brougham
1992-2004 Seville
1992-2004 SLS/STS
1985-1999 Deville
1994-1999 Deville Concours
1997-1999 Deville D'Elegance
1988-2002 ElDorado
1994-2002 ElDorado Touring
1999-2007 Escalade
.
Saturn
2000 LS/LS1/LS2/LW1/LW2
2001-2002 L100/LW100
2001-2003 L200/LW200
2001-2005 L300/LW300
2004-2005 L-Series
2002-2008 VUE
1996-2002 SL/SL1/SL2
1996-2002 SC1/SC2
1996-2002 SW1/SW2

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2013 mustang v6 premium bcm


You may be setting the code when you bypass the relay. If it sees voltage on that circuit when the ignition switch IS NOT in crank position, it will assume the circuit to be stuck high and can set that code.

In your enhanced datastream menu for either engine or PATS, does it show starter command engaged when you turn the key? There is a dataline for it in both sections. If it changes to YES but the car still wont crank unless you jump the relay, then the relay has failed or the wire(s) from the fusebox /PCM/FEM/park neutral switch may have a break in it. If the data pid DOES NOT change to START/ACTIVE, then the start signal is not being commanded, likely because the key turned to crank input is not reaching the BCM or ECM. You have a decent tool for the job, now start reviewing your datalines for key position, immobilizer/pats status, trans gear position, etc etc.

Jan 04, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have 96 isuzu trooper3.2l v6 stick shift all power is good but when i stick key in switch and turn it no sound at all what could that be


electrical power you meant is seems good.
engine power zero.
starter dead.
this is no crank, ill post again,. for this, done so many times.

i use this thing called a voltmeter and avoid this jiggery pokery below...... time is money.

1: fuses good.battery terms clean? (all fuses, if you lack the FSM to see which ones are IN PLAY.)
2: battery charged to 12.6vdc reseted?
3: jumper cable cranking work now>? off a running donor car?
yes, the battery was dead, or weak, or discharged, test battery, test cars charging system and last make sure no drain on battery parked keys out of car..
4: NO, jump fails.
check or bypass clutch switch?
this cranks ok, (bad clutch switch at its pedal.)
if still dead it can be bad key switch or bad starter relay.
lets see if it has the relay. ,alldata.com says yes.

so does the starter relay close, cranking?
if not fix cause that first.
it needs fuses working
it needs power to the relay contactor input
power to the coil
and the coil enabling factor the clutch depressed and its switch must be closed.
and if the antithieft box, (factory option) is unhappy
the start relay coil will be dead.
start at the relay ,
does the (turned on) dash heater fan cut off, cranked
yes, then relay is closing
no, its not. find reason.
easy with a volt meter the 4 pins on relay.
pins 3,4,5,6
12v, 12v, 0v and 12v respectively.
if the pin 5 never goes to 0v, the immoblizer is unhappy.
sorry so small, Fixya shinks it to useless....

25691838-51hqzbz3dizfbnqgamxcgrll-4-0.jpg

May 12, 2015 | Isuzu Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2006 cobalt will not crank I have replaced battery , starter checked all fuses and relays and ran security relearn procedure


Does it click or try to crank when you turn the key? If nothing happens it could be a faulty safety switch (clutch or park on an automatic) or the ECM (electronic control module)

Feb 12, 2015 | 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt

1 Answer

2006 Cobalt ss will not start


The key is chiped , does it have a padlock an car symbol light on the instrument cluster when you turn the key on ? Do the headlamps work ? shine bright ? Do you have a volt meter ? Check battery voltage . Go to http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on electrical distribution , under subsystem click on power distribution . Check power at the crank relay , plus you need to know what happens when you turn that key to start . Computers involved .Do you know about relays ?

Moving the ignition switch to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) through discrete inputs from the ignition transducer that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The ECM/PCM receives a 12-volt signal from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch or clutch pedal start switch notifying that it is safe to start the engine. There is a splice on this circuit in the fuse block-underhood that supplies power for the starter relay coil. The starter relay coil control circuit is then grounded by the ECM/PCM closing the switch in the starter relay suppling 12 volts to the S-trminal of the starter. Ground is supplied through the engine block.
A scan tool of professional type would be a good tool to have to diagnose this .

The vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system functions are provided by the theft deterrent module (TDM). When an ignition key is inserted into the ignition lock cylinder and the ignition is switched ON, the transponder embedded in the head of the key is energized by the exciter coils surrounding the ignition lock cylinder. The energized transponder transmits a signal that contains its unique value, which is received by the TDM. The TDM then compares this value to a value stored in memory. This is the learned key code. If the value is correct, the TDM sends a random generated number to the transponder. This is called a challenge. Both the transponder and the TDM module perform a calculation on the challenge. If the calculations match, the TDM sends the start enable message via the serial data circuit to the engine control module (ECM). If either the transponders unique value or the calculation to the challenge is incorrect, the TDM will send the start disable message to the ECM via the serial data circuit. The components of the VTD system are as follows:
• TDM
• ECM
• Ignition key (Transponder)
• Ignition lock cylinder
• Security indicator

Is the light on . when trying to start the vehicle ?

Mar 14, 2017 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jun 15, 2011 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I drove my 1999 accord EX to work & 8 hrs. later I tried to start it and it did nothing. Tried jumping still nothing. Put new battery on and it still did nothing.What is the problem?


Hi, diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit.

Ten Reasons why you car won't start..
  1. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  2. Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  3. Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  4. Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  5. Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  6. Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  7. Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  8. Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  9. Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  10. Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Hope it helps identify and solve the problem

Jan 16, 2011 | 1999 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

Not finding what you are looking for?
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt SS Logo

Related Topics:

40 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Chevrolet Experts

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

84027 Answers

Jonah Oneal

Level 3 Expert

14065 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22483 Answers

Are you a Chevrolet Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...