1996 Lincoln Town Car Logo

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Monica Leonard Posted on Feb 13, 2019

1996 lin.TC.Had the ac modulator replaced. Now no heat. Can hear in center under dash like a fan clicking / Clunking. Can hear flap moving .Hoses are warm. On inspection I believe it's coming from a box above radio.

1 Answer

bunky2374

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  • Contributor 6 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2019
bunky2374
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I had a mark 8, similar year, there are electric blend door actuators, they are made of plastic, and overtime crack and loosen up. There are several fixes, I used a ferrel from a 1/2 brass compression fitting, and epoxy over it, held for the next 3 years I owned it. Dash board removal sucks, no room but is doable. Recommend checking wiper motor/linkage while your there, good time to do while it's apart. Hope it helps.

  • Monica Leonard Feb 14, 2019

    Thank you. Need to take it to a shop. Been burned before with unneeded repairs. Thanks again for the heads up.

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5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: 1994 Jeep cherokee am/fm radio backlight lamp is out and AC/Heat dash lamp is out

There is a tiny little peanut shaped light bulb inside the radio that provides the light for the dial, it is replaceable, you will need to remove the radio, then pull the top cover off the radio chassis, the bulb is under the cover.

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Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 07, 2009

SOURCE: have 1996 lin towncar where n how 2 fix blend door 4 heat n a/c

In order for the blend door actuator to be replaced, the dash must be removed from the vehicle.

Anonymous

  • 104 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2009

SOURCE: 98 ford windstar has clicking noise under dash and won't start

The clicking noise is most likly the starter solinoid cycling in and out. This is due to low battery voltage. charge the battery, then have the battery and charging system tested. Some auto supply stores will do this for free for you in the hopes of selling parts

good luck

Anonymous

  • 783 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 10, 2009

SOURCE: Problem:

Problem is most likely in the electronic blend door motor or the door itself has broken.
To access the electronic temperature blend door actuator remove cassette storage box or center shelf unit, if equipped.
Remove instrument panel ash receptacle by depressing service lever. Disconnect electrical harness connector from A/C electronic door actuator motor.
Remove three retaining screws.
Carefully pull A/C electronic door actuator motor outward and off A/C evaporator housing assembly.Make sure the door it self is not cracked where the actuator hooks to it and that it will move.
Here ia a link to a pick of what you are looking at.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/chuck943/L9819A.gif

harley9701ha

Bill

  • 424 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 09, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Ford Focus ZX4 AC switch in dash does not

Sounds like there is a foreign object in the heater case. The only way to reapair it is to remove the object by possibly removing the heater case.

Testimonial: "Definately pointing in the right direction. Thanks..."

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1helpful
2answers

NO HEAT STUCK ON AC HEAR CLICKING IN CENTER CONSOLE

Air Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on where door sticks)

In all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.

Other causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.

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Check to see if both heater hoses are hot when the engine has heated up and the heater is running.

You have 2 possibilities. One is that water valve is not opening and the heater core is cold, the second possibility is that the heater core is hot and the ductwork under the dash is not switching the flaps to give heat.

If both heater hoses are hot it means the heater core is hot and the interior ductwork is not channeling heat. You would then need to replace a movement valve or motor to switch the flaps in the ductwork.

Sometimes with the high priced options, there are self-diagnostics in the control panel of the heater. You would need someone to initiate the sequence and let the self-diagnostics pinpoint the bad part. Otherwise you need to dive under the dash and troubleshoot.
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Go under the hood and locate the 2 rubber hoses that go into the Firewall for the heater core. When the engine is hot and the heater is on, if both these hoses are hot you have water flow. This means the heater is getting hot and the problem is your ductwork is not moving the flaps under the dash. You have something broken under the dash like a cable or electric solenoid that is not moving the flaps. You would need to look at the end of the temperature cable or heat selector cable to see if the cable has slipped or whether it is moving at all. Then fix or replace that part.

If the heater hoses above are not BOTH hot, then you have a water flow problem. Usually you go to a autoparts store and ask the clerk for a water flow valve for the heater. Once you have it in hand you will see what it looks like and only need to find it on the car.

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It looks like you changed everything involving the hot water. When the engine is warm, you should be getting hot water going through the heater core. By holding each hose from the heater core you should feel heat from both hoses. I did not see a new thermostat listed.

You need to also have the ductwork under the dash moving correctly. If you find that the water lines from the heater core are both hot, then you need the (doors) or flaps in the ductwork to route the heat inside. I do not see that anything was looked at under the dash.
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I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.
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