Question about Cadillac Catera
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
spray pentrating oil around where wheel meets hub and also around lug bolts let set for about 15 min then take a sledge hammer and hit from underneath make sure the truck is blocked up good for safty
if that doesnt work take a small sissor jack between the rim and the fram and put a lot of pressure on it then hit it with the sledge from underneath
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
SOURCE: Have a 2000 Cadillac Catera
First, you want to remove the 4 screws on the door panel. Next you have to remove the door grip. To do this, you have to get a small screwdriver with a long shaft. Insert it into the top of the grip and it will force a clip that holds the grip to the handle. Remove the screw found there. Next is the tricky part. You have to find something very small but capable of prying with. Pull door lock up, pry out the orange clip - it may take some doing so don't give up. After you have removed clip, remove screw found there. Finally pull cover from around door handle and remove final screw.
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
You need to remove the upper rad hose and the battery.
Then, use a torx to remove the 6 screws (hard to get at) which will remove the EBTCM from the brake modulator. You also must disconnect the two electrical connectors (the big one has a slide tab).
There are places you can send the module to and rebuild with warranty. I took a module from a 99' and installed it in my wife's 01'. Now the speedo, odometer, cruise and power steering work perfect and no TCM / ABS light.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub
The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)
Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)
Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)
The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.
Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.
The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.
The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.
I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00
I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.
24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)
You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.
Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
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Posted on Mar 18, 2010
It is a tight fit, a few wacks with a hammer should loosen it. Hit on the back side of the flange where the wheel mounts, try to drive it away from the car, after making sure you have removed all the bolts.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
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