Check your iod fuse, it should be with your relays under the hood. Make sure it is in there like swimwear... good luck
The regulator start going time for new one in the saab cars it's under the seat find out where it's locate in your car and change the box
This sounds like a contact issue with your fuses so I want you to go to ford owners.Com register then download your owners manual go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams and values are there also you can keep it on your phone / computer and also print it out when needed that being said next//////I want you to first clean all the power related cables (a) battery terminals (b)cable to ground on the engine (c) the power distribution box cable from the battery and the alternator and make sure all of these are clean and shiny free of corrosion and tight ///now we are doing this first because we needed to rule out an intermittent power loss that maybe wouldn't affect the engine running condition but cause the flicker from a loose cable that still is making contact but moving around /////now we will go to the fuses go to your manual and look for the fuses that are conceded to the issues you are having and check those for cleaning tightness of the fuse in the fuse box inside and the power distribution box under the hood because other circuits there maybe bleeding off one of them and that will affect the electrical path next///// after this is done and the problems persist we will now go to the bulkhead connectors that bring the electrical voltage and grounds into the passenger compartment these will be big connectors on the firewall by the master cylinder there are also connectors inside the rear part of the fender again at the firewall all must be clean and tight and if your truck was recently serviced within 1-2 months or so and there was electrical issues this could be that the connectors weren't pushed in all the way until they clicked into the locked position now after these are done on the outside part they can be ruled out I'm going through the process of eliminating everything coming in from outside fuse box and inside and battery connections if still persistent next//// there are connectors in the kicker panels by your feet on both sides check them for the same things described earlier next /////if all well but still happening you need to position a large enough mirror on the drivers seat so you can see the dashboard lights and now start wiggling the wires to see if you can find the loose connector or wire harness that's causing the problem the clicking noise is intermittent loss of power and then the regaining of it I'm assuming that you have a 4.6 windsor/romeo engine there's a lighting control module for this vehicle the location could be above your right leg under the dash or to the right side under the heater controls also check those connectors for looseness and watch the lights during the wiggle test this is very difficult to find even if you are using a meter that's why I'm asking you to do all of this and it sounds like a loose connector or wire in one but could also be a broken solder joint on a component related to the symptoms because the trucks now 14-15 years old from production and things being unplugged or accidentally kicked or banged into or arms being forced through were a connector/component is can put stress on the inside connector of a module and cause a solder joint to let go and now there's an air gap in the solder joint causing the arching/flicker of electricity to become a problem because the arching is creating a high temperature at that spot and will be seen as a blackened mark around the solder lug/pin on the circuit board that's all I can possibly tell you if you have a continuity tester this will help somewhat in the wiggle test post back with progress and we'll keep going till we get there I have to go back to replacing a wiring harness on a crown victoria that was in an accident you have the same configuration the harness goes along the inner fenders from the battery/power distribution box to the inside passengers compartment I am trying hard for you to explain the process for you and so you know where this is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50+ years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we will get you to the end of this it takes time and obviously I'm not there to see what's happening with the truck myself so it's up to you please right down everything you do so we can keep track of the checks done for the process of eliminating other possible causes go slow and good luck stephen
Also pay close attention to that lighting control module because the illumination of all goes through that module ///dash,radio,interior,tail,backup,etc.also the headlight switch does all to so a lot of work here once again good luck stephen
I have same issue as initial question. I started at the local shop and they said there was nothing conclusive from their 30 minute inspection/computer diagnostic other than an issue with electrical (vague). He said 9 out of 10 times it's tied to the Alternator. I opted to replace it myself with used from salvage yard. No change in dash situation, so I ruled that out. We pulled the dash apart to the cluster. which the click we initially hear was traced to the relay behind the under dash fuse box. I replaced the three Relays (Battery Saver, Delayed accessory and Rear defrost) ... playing it safe that maybe one of those was giving us a dim power reading (mindset that a weak relay could cause this). Again no resolution. Next action is to replace the dash cluster. Will be ordering one ~$50-80 and local shop to install $110. I really hope this resolves the issue for me. I will update when replacement cluster is installed.
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SOURCE: power winidows, wipers, dome lights not working on 1998 explorer
This could be a combination of electrical issues, although i feel that the timing is coincidence in this case. When the combination is elec. windows, wipers, and dome lights this is indicative of the GEM module located behind your radio. The GEM (generic electronic module) is an electronic body control module that regulates electrical flow through a number of accessories.
These factory module boards are notorious for acting quirky by failing to ground intermittently until failing completely. I would be cautious in replacing ignition switches, locks, etc. as the issue can be also compounded by corrosion of the main battery ground wire in the engine compartment and which can cause frying of your under dash wiring into the main wiring harness which can get expensive (i speak from experience having had the exact same syptoms). My issues were that these symptoms occurred only in full ON. When in key BACK ACC mode, they disappeared.
New price for one of these modules is around $280-$300 and easily replaced.
Good Luck
Its below the Dashboard, on the left side of your knee. You have to use a torch & locate it from under the Dashboard, Its roughly near to the Clutch Pedal.
Here, it looks like this:
(The Black one is the Fuse box)
SOURCE: My 2005 Kia Spectra instrument cluster lights out
My 2005 Kia Spectra L4-2.0L instrument cluster lights were flickering for a while and now most of the time they don't work. Unfortunately I have 95k and the warranty ran out at 60k (5yr 60k warranty on that item). KIA charged me $50 to tell me that the cluster has an internal short and needs to be replaced for about $500+. I called KIA corporate and said sorry your out of luck, ie no recalls or warranty left.
SOURCE: While driving dash lights flicker
i had same proplem and replaced the headlight switch for 1997 jeep grand cherokee limited.
Testimonial: "thank you i will try this "
SOURCE: Dome light won't turn on.
my dome light wont turn on at all and i dont know where the fuse is iv checked all my fuses and there fine could it be a capasiter
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