If it will crank over, it can be started. Only IF it is getting fire to the plugs AND fuel to the cylinders. What you can do is, have a spark plug wrench ready to remove the easiest to get to spark plug, crank ti over a few times like you'r trying to start it, shut the switch off and pull the spark plug quickly. IF the tip of the plug at the electrode is wet, it's getting fuel to start. Fuel delivery is fine. Now, before you put the spark plug back in the head, put the plug on the end of it's consecutive plug wire end, hold the electrode on the engine to ground it and have someone crank the engine over. If you see a spark happen at the electrode, your getting fire also. But for it to NOT start, one of the two have to be missing. If both are present, and still no start, then, it could be that the cold start mode from the computer is not engaging and not enough fuel to the cylinders. To check that, remove the wire plugged onto the temperature sensor and ground it to the block. Crank the engine and see will it start. If it does, you have a faulty temperature sending unit/sensor. You've now tried as much as would be any required start procedure and it should be running.
SOURCE: audi a4 problem
I had this problem with my old Audi 80 and basically it was a knackered fuel pump. If your car is a few years old avoid the main Audi dealers and take it to an independant Audi/Volkswagon specialist and you will save a small fortune.
SOURCE: 2005 Audi 1.8 a4 check engine light on and car now spudders??
FYI also when you get those codes you can look them up and get their description at http://www.check-engine-light.com
SOURCE: 2001 Audi A4 Windshield Wiper Issues....Work on their own
The most likely cause of your symptoms is the wiper motor parking relay has become faulty, however there is a slim possibility the connections within your wiper switch could be an issue, but the relay would be my first and cheepest line of enquiry. Contact your local VAG dealer and expect to pay somewhere in the region of £15. Good luck
SOURCE: Hi, Irratic revs when idle
You need to reset the throttle body. Sometimes you can do this by going out to your car and turning the key to the "on" position. Don't crank the engine - just turn it to on. Let it sit like this for 15 min. Your throttle body shoulld reset. Good luck. Check out audiforums. c o m or audiworld for audi spec issues. Good luck!
SOURCE: temp guage not working
It's most likely one of two things: 1) coolant temp sensor (meaning the gauge isn't working), or 2) stuck thermostat (meaning the gauge is working but the coolant isn't getting hot)
Start with the coolant temp sensor - it's on the back of the engine, somewhat near the top, toward the passenger side. On your car it's likely a blue sensor body (as is the CTS on my 99 A4 2.8). The easiest way to get to it is to remove the tube leading from the airbox to the throttle body. Take that off, and you can look down and see that there's a squarish plug with four wires plugged into the top of the coolant temp sensor (at the right angle you can see the color of the sensor - black, blue, or light green, but most likely blue on your car). There's a C-shaped retaining clip that holds the connector onto the sensor which must be pulled off (pull more or less straight back toward the firewall), and then the sensor can be unplugged. The sensor itself is just pressed into the opening in the block, not screwed in - you just have to pull upward to get it out (it can be tough - try opening the cap on the coolant tank to alleviate pressure in the system). The sensor is not expensive (around $25 from www.ecstuning.com - call them up with your VIN number to guarantee they send you the right sensor).
If you change that out, and it doesn't fix the problem, don't sweat it - it means your temp sensor was working, but replacing it was a good idea anyhow since they're prone to failure and can cause all kinds of wacky problems when they go. Next most likely problem is a thermostat stuck partially or fully open, and this is more invasive - it requires removing the front bumper, opening up the core support (with radiator and AC condensor), losing (and having to flush and refill) your coolant, and the removal of the serpentine belt and fans. It sounds horrifying but it's pretty easy actually.
I'd suggest starting with the CTS and see if it fixes the problem. If it does not, reply here and let me know and I can help you through the thermostat replacement if you're mechanically inclined and have the tools. If you're in the northeast, I can do either repair for you (I'm in the southern tier of NY) and save you a bundle over a dealership, and save you the aggravation of doing it yourself if you're not mechanical or don't have the tools or experience.
53 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×