Reducing RPM or place in gear the engine dies again. Eventually the vibrations stop and runs smoothly. Easily starts rest of day. Next morning I have the same starting issue again.
A few questions: when is the last time that you changed spark plugs And ignition components like the coil and wires? I buy my parts from FCPeuro.com because they guarantee all parts for life.
I don’t know this car very well, but it also could be a timing adjustment, with the turn of the screw on the carburetor. (I am a former Volvo 760 owner.)
I suggest that you take it to a local auto store and ask them to give you a free scan. Record the codes and look them up.
If you haven’t change those components, a cheap solution would be to just change them out. However, you could also have problems with the timing chain, cylinder compression and other factors. You might want to invest about $100 to go to an independent Volvo specialist and ask them to analyze the problem and give you an estimate. Then, you can determine whether the investment is worth it. Good luck!
The service and repair manual with diagram will help you step by step to locate and fix the problem on your own and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com
SOURCE: Subaru Engine Vibration
I'd suspect a vacuum leak in the inlet manifold, check to see if any vacuum lines might have fallen off. This can cause a lean misfire at idle, but often it's not enough of a leak to make it lean enough to misfire at higher rpm. If a leak is not obvious, check if it is a leak by buying a can of engine start (or even CRC will do) and spray it all around the inlet manifold. If the idle smooths out while you're spraying then then goes rough again, it is a leak. By spraying in specific areas you can narrow down the area of the manifold or gasket that is leaking.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Won't run without holding gas pedal down
same problem I overheated my jeep and ruined the Idle control sensor. put a new one in and it fixed the problem
SOURCE: Vibration when in gear, and stalling.
The problem is the torque converter solenoid. I had it happen on my 94 Cavalier a few years back and was a cheap fix at the local car mechanic. What happens is the transmission warms up and hits a certain speed where the solenoid engages, but then it sticks and won't disengage until it cools down sufficiently. When it sticks, it causes the car to shake when slowing down and will snub out the engine if you come to a stop.
SOURCE: car vibrating while idling
Sounds like it is missing badly and would not be so noticeable when running. Have you had it tuned up lately? Could be wires and plugs need replacing. Also if you have a lot of miles on the engine the compression in the cylinders may be low. Two possibilities.
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