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You have to order the part from a dealer. The issue might not be the sleeve though if you check the bushings at the hinges, they are probably worn. You can get door hinge bushings from an autoparts store. Then you drive out the hinge pins and bushings and put in new ones. What happens is over time, the bushings where and then the weight of the door causes the latch to strick the retaining anchor.
The hardest part is going to be to reinstall the spring on the lower hinge arm. this is not a screw but rather a pin. There are two hinges that hold the door to body. when the upper and lower pins are removed the door will come away from body, it is important that before you remove the pins you take a look at the hinges. Pay close att. to the way the hinges sit inside each other and the way the pins go in. see if they go from top to bottom or from bottom to top. also note where the copper bushings sit in hinges. each hinge has one pin and two copper bushings top go into hinge. Over time the pins and bushings wear out ,making door hard to open and close. When the pins and bushings get so bad that the bushing is worn out and then the pins are now wearing into the hinge hole itself then this get tricky. if hinge hole is egg shaped the new bushings will not last. the door will hang again in a few weeks. this is where is get costly, the hinges now need replacing. i have gotten good at welding the holes and filing them back to shape but this takes skill or hole will be wrong and bushing will not fit or line up.
Here is a youtube video to help you. Take note. put jack stands under door with cloth to avoid scratching door.this is to hold door when pins are removed. have somone help you, they will hold door on stands. the wires will still run through door, pull door away from body a little to allow room to work.remove the spring, it will fall out as you remove pins, remove old bushings, clean hinge area and holes,next install new bushings, apply lube to holes for pins and on bushings, slide door back on frame hinges and install pins, next slide lock washers on pins to hold pins. last is the spring. you will need a spring tool, you may rent one at auto parts store. hope this helps good day.
Sounds like the door hinges are worn. Determine if it is the hinges or the hinge pin that is worn. It it is only the pins, which is unlikely, you can just replace these, if it is the hinges, the complete hinges will have to be replaced.
Before attempting to adjust the door, you need to check the wear on the hinge pins. Open the door fully and look at the middle of the hinge. See the pin there? Lift up on the latch side of the door as you watch the hinge pin. If you see the hinge moving around the pin or see the pin shifting back and forth then the metal grommet the pin goes through is worn and needs replacing. Motormite makes a replacement pin set that comes with new grommets ( or bushings to some). It's not so hard to change, but it can be a little tricky. Jack up the door to relieve the pressure on the pin.Start with the top pin. Watch the pin as you jack and keep going until the pin is in the middle of the movement range. Tap the old pin out and then inspect the grommet to see if it's worn past the outer edge of the metal. If it is worn past the edge then you'll need to replace that hinge. Otherwise, you can use that old pin to tap out the old grommet, and replace with the new one, then the new pin. slowly release the pressure on the jack and watch the new pin for excessive movement, then do the bottom pin and grommet.. Test door swing and alignment. If the door still hits low on the catch post, loosen those torq bolts after lifting the door slightly and now lift the door the distance it was low plus 1/8 inch. retighten torq bolts and release jack, then retest the door alignment to the catch post. Don't let the door strike the catch post hard - just let it slowly come into contact as you watch for alignment. Repeat procedure until door lines up centered on taht catch post. Good luck!!
the door problem sounds like the door pins and bushings are worn out. this should be fixed asap because if it is let go the pin will cut into the hinge itself and then they may also need replaced. hope this helps!
R/V Series See
Figures 1, 2 and 3 If the door being removed is to be reinstalled, matchmark the hinge
position.
If the door is to be replaced with a new one, remove the trim
panels weathersheets and all molding.
Fig. 1: Door hinge-R/V Series
If the door is to be replaced with a new one, remove the glass,
locks and latches.
If equipped with a wiring harness, remove the trim panel and
disconnect the harness. Guide the wiring out of the door.
Support the door and remove the hinge-to-body attaching bolts.
Lift the door from the truck.
Install the door.
Perform the alignment procedures indicated below.
Fig. 2: Door hinge components-C/K Series
Fig. 3: Removing the hinge spring
C/K Series
On trucks with power components in the door, disconnect the
battery ground cable.
On trucks with power components in the door, remove the cowl side
vent cover.
On trucks with power components in the door, disconnect the wiring
going to the door, under the dash panel. Feed the wiring through the
door pillar.
Cover the door hinge spring with a heavy towel. Using tool J-36604
or its equivalent, insert the blades of the tool between the spring
coils and turn the barrel nut to compress and hold the spring. Remove
the spring using the tool.
Remove the lower hinge pin retainer.
Using a plastic or rubber mallet and locking pliers, remove the
lower hinge pin.
Install a bolt through the lower hinges to hold the door while
removing the upper hinge pin.
Remove the upper hinge pin retainer.
Remove the upper hinge pin.
Support the door and remove the bolt from the lower hinge.
To install:
Position the door and install the bolt in the lower hinge.
Install the upper hinge pin. with the pointed end up.
Install a new upper hinge pin retainer.
Remove the bolt from the lower hinges.
Install the lower hinge pin with the pointed end down.
Install a new lower hinge pin retainer.
Using tool J-36604, install the hinge spring.
On trucks with power components in the door, connect the wiring
going to the door, under the dash panel. Feed the wiring through the
door pillar.
On trucks with power components in the door, install the cowl side
vent cover.
On trucks with power components in the door, connect the battery
ground cable.
ADJUSTMENTSee Figure 4
The holes for the hinges are oversized to provide for latitude in
alignment. Align the door hinges first, then the striker. C/K series utilize hinges that are welded to the door and frame. No
adjustment is possible except when replacement hinges have been
installed.
Fig. 4: Door adjustment check points
If a door is being installed, first mount the door and tighten the
hinge bolts lightly.
If the door has not been removed, determine which hinge bolts must be
loosed to effect alignment.
Loosen the necessary bolts just enough to allow the door to be
moved with a padded prybar.
Move the door in small movements and check the fit after each
movement.
Be sure that there is no binding or interference with adjacent
panels.
Repeat this procedure until the door is properly aligned.
most of these cars the only part you can change is the pins if your are bolted on you can adjust loosen the bolts one hinge at a time to adjust... when changing a door with live hinges you should mark ware the old hinges were so you can put the new hinges in the same place
if you car has welded hinges you have to bend the door at the hinge or door support ( its not as hard as it seems)
Access to the bolt heads is through holes which are generally exposed once any interior trim has been removed. The lower hinge bolts are relatively easy but the upper ones can sometimes challenge the most supple of people. Sometimes other dashboard or instrument stuff must be removed or pushed aside. Sometimes such things as the fusebox must be removed.
Vehicle specific information could make your job easier.
If you have never replaced hinges before or removed a door, you have yet to experience the frustrations of door adjustment and the joy of finally getting it right with equal panel gaps all the way around and closing level with the surrounding panels and without riding up or down as it contacts the striker plate.
The latter point is of great importance if premature wear of the catch and the striker is to be avoided.
It is a job that should be faced without time constraints; quite simply it takes as long as it takes and for a novice that can be a long time.
If the hinge pins can be removed easily and refitted in situ and it is only the door side of the hinge that is worn then fitting half an hinge might make the task easier. It depends on the design.
Good luck!
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