Look for a toasted relay. But look very well
SOURCE: HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ON A 99 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ?
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee when start sometimes the
Most likely cause is the crankshaft sensor.
SOURCE: Jeep Cherokee starting issue
On an intermittent start problem like this you may be having a starter solenoid issue or your wire on the starter from the key switch may be loose. Or you may have a corroded battery cable or the safety neutral switch may be going bad. Is it a automatic? If it were it would be the clutch safety switch going out. So do the simple things first. Clean cables like the first guy said if that does not fix it locate the starter and if you have jumper cables the next time it does it put the positive lead of the jumper cable on the Positive battery terminal and the other touch to the starter wire with the key in the run position where the big wire on the starter is, if you here it spin it means the starter motor is ok if it don't it is bad or the connection on the starter is loose. Also a bad battery cable could cause this from the battery to the starter next put a small wire into the end of the positive jumper cable and touch the S terminal on the starter if you here a solid clung it means the solenoid is good. So check the connections on the starter and tighten the starter bolts as they may have worked loose and don't have a good ground. So if you want more as stance just post on my question and I will hell p more and if this is more informative please rate
SOURCE: 2002 jeep grand cherokee with 4.0 engine will die but restart
p0340 is the cam shaft sensor, this will cause it to cut off while driving, hardtime starting, p0351 is the ignition coil A primary/secondary curcuit mal function. p1391 is ignition system misfire, this could be plugs, wires, or coils. first of all have the cam sensor changed and it may correct the rest of the codes. when fixed turn light off with obd2 scanner. if you do not have one, then any auto parts store will erase the codes fo free of charge.
SOURCE: Where is the camshaft sensor located on my 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee
If you still have a cap rotor and ignition wires, it's inside the distributor. If not, it is the part where the distributor used to be (center rear of the engine behind the intake manifold)
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