Audi q7 valve cover replacement what is minimum I need to remove from the engine and how do I depressurise the fuel rail without a vagcom

Question edited for clarity, year make model.
Question moved to Audi Q7.

Audi Q7 (4L; 2007-2015) fuses and relays

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Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Audi Q7 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, ... Assignment of the fuses and relays in the engine compartment (diesel engine) ...

Fuse box diagram Audi Q7 and relay with assignment and ...

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Description of fuse boxes and relays Audi Q7, their locations and diagrams. ... V12 TDI: Coolant circulation relay after off. engine -J151- (V6 FSI from ...
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Fuses and relay Audi Q7

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For the Audi Q7 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 model year. Cigarette lighter fuse - (fuse box in Right cockp it : fuse panel, fuse ? ...

As long as the key is off, the pump will not work. For safety reasons, yea. To drain the pressure that is already built up, find the fuel port on the fuel rail, behind the ac compressor, and hook up a bleed gauge to check and bleed the pressure down

It's easy to find and replace.
image 1 shows where it is with the engine cover on.
image 2 shows where it is with the engine cover removed.
image 3 shows it removed so you can see what it looks like.
I hope this helps!

No power to the fuel injectors can be caused by a few things. If the relays, fuses, and computer all check out then I would move on to looking at the engine management and fuel system. ... A no start condition can also be caused by a faulty fuel pump, or any of the associated components.
https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/car-won-t-start-no-power-to-injectors-by-joelle

This is caused by a leaking valve cover gasket, you will need to replace it.
Instructions

1. • 1Pop the hood on the engine compartment and make sure the engine is cool. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent possible shock. Remove the air outlet using a screwdriver. Loosen the PCV hose clamp at the valve cover with the screwdriver and pull the hose from it. Disconnect the quick connect fitting from the fuel line at the fuel rail.
     
   • 2Remove the fuel line clips from the fuel line bracket. Reposition the fuel feed line out of the way of the valve cover. Remove the bolt from the fuel line bracket using a wrench and take the bracket off. Mark the proper location of each of the wires on the ignition coils using the marker and masking tape and then pull them off.
     
   • 
     3
   • Remove the wiring harness clips from the valve cover. Remove the valve cover bolts using a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve cover away from the cylinder head. Remove the valve cover gasket from the cylinder head. Use the scraper to remove any gasket material that remains. Clean the cylinder head mounting surface using the rags.
     
   • 4Place a new gasket on the cylinder head. Place the valve cover on the gasket and line it up properly with the cylinder head. Secure the valve cover bolts using the socket and ratchet. Attach the wiring harness clips to the valve cover. Attach the wires to the ignition coils according to the labels you made.
     
   • 5Place the fuel line bracket in place and tighten the bolt with the wrench. Move the fuel line back into place and attach the fuel line clips to the bracket. Connect the quick connect fitting of the fuel line to the fuel rail. Connect the hose to the PCV valve at the valve cover and tighten the clamp with the screwdriver.
     
   • 6Connect the air outlet and tighten the clamp with the screwdriver. Connect the battery cable. Start the engine and check the valve cover for leaking around the new gasket.
     

• It is important that you disconnect the battery as instructed. Otherwise, you are not only at risk of electrical shock, but you may also short out and damage other components.
  

Read more: How to Replace the Valve Cover Gasket on a 2.4L GM ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7703691_replace-cover-gasket-24l-gm.html#ixzz1yBFqV3VV

Hi, I have pasted the procedure from autozone.com below. Because this requires removal of the intake manifold, please be as sure as possible that your starter needs replacement. If you have any doubt, please let me know what your symptoms are and what troubleshooting you have done that led you to believe your starter is bad. Also, if you have any questions about the procedure below, please let me know. Thanks for using FixYa.

Removal & Installation

Disconnect the Negative battery cable

Relieve the fuel system pressure (you can do this by placing a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail and pressing in the valve stem--just be careful not to spray fuel on your eyes).

Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:

• Intake manifold heat shield

• Sight shield
• Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers

• Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
• Fuel regulator vacuum tube
• Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
• Fuel inlet and return lines
• Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
• 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
• Fuel injector electrical connections
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen
• Intake manifold bolts and the manifold

Clean the manifold mating surfaces.

Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

Fig. View of starter motor removal and wires

To install:

Install or connect the following:

• -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
• Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
• Starter motor
• Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Fig. Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

1. Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
2. Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
   1. Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
   2. Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
   
   
3. Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
4. Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).
5. Install or connect the following:
   
   Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel injector electrical connections Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel inlet and return lines Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid Fuel regulator vacuum tube Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers Sight shield Intake manifold heat shield Negative battery cable
   
6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Hi, When jump starting this vehicle make sure that the Q7 is connected first, then connect to the jumper vehicle. Connect 1 lead to the positive on the Q7 and the negative to a good solid body part or engine part. This will then ensure that the vehicle will start on the jumper vehicles battery directly without going through the Q7 flat battery causing the electronics to strain.
Hope this helped.
Thanks
Jason

Well, the fuel pump relay may not be getting electricity to the fuel pump.

Also, use the following procedure to test the fuel pump before changing it again:

TESTING Fig. 1: Connect the fuel pressure gauge C4799B or equivalent to the fuel rail service valve - 3.3L shown
Fig. 2: Checking the fuel pressure with a gauge - 3.5L shown
Fig. 3: Checking the pressure between the pump and the filter
Fig. 4: Place the other end of the adapter 6668 into an approved gasoline container

1. Release the fuel system pressure as described in earlier in this section.
2. Remove the protective cover from the service valve on the fuel rail.
3. Connect fuel pressure gauge C-4799B or equivalent to the fuel rail service valve.
4. Place the ignition key in the ON position. Using the DRB III tester or equivalent, access the ASD fuel system test. (The ASD fuel system test will activate the fuel pump and pressurize the system.)
5. If the gauge reading equals the specifications, then further testing is not required. Without vacuum applied to the regulator, the 3.3L engine fuel system operates at 55 psi (379 kPa). With the engine idling and the manifold vacuum applied to the regulator, the system operates at approximately 46 psi (317 kPa). Without vacuum applied to the regulator, the 3.5L engine fuel system operates at 48 psi (331 kPa). With the engine idling and the manifold vacuum applied to the regulator, the system operates at approximately 39 psi (269 kPa). The fuel system pressure varies with the different amounts of manifold vacuum applied to the regulator. If the pressure is not correct, record the pressure and remove the gauge.
6. Ensure that the fuel does not leak from the fuel rail service valve. Install the protective cover onto the fuel rail service valve.
7. If the fuel pressure reading was below the specifications, test the system according to the following procedure:
   1. Perform the fuel pressure release procedure.
   2. Install a fuel gauge C4799 and fuel adapter 6631 or equivalent in the fuel supply line between the tank and the fuel filter.
   3. Using the DRB III scan tool or equivalent, with the ignition key in the ON position, repeat the ASD fuel system test.
8. If the pressure is at least 5 psi (1 kPa) or higher than the reading recorded, replace the fuel filter.
9. If no change is observed, gently squeeze the return hose. If the pressure increases, replace the pressure regulator. If the gauge reading does not change when the return hose is squeezed, the problem is either a plugged inlet strainer or defective fuel pump.
10. If the fuel pressure reading was above the specifications test the system according to the following procedure:
    1. Perform the pressure release procedure.
    2. Install fuel pressure gauge C4799 and adapter 6631 or equivalent in the fuel supply line between the fuel tank and the fuel filter.
    3. Remove the fuel return line hose from the pump at the tank. Connect pressure test adapter 6668 or equivalent to the return line. Place the other end of adapter 6668 into an approved gasoline container. A minimum of 2 gallon tank should be sufficient. All return fuel will flow into the container.
    4. Using the DRB III scan tool or its equivalent, with the ignition key in the ON position, repeat the ASD fuel system test.
11. If the pressure is now correct, replace the fuel pump.
12. If the pressure is still above specifications, remove the fuel return hose from the chassis fuel tubes (at the engine) and attach fuel pressure test adapter 6668 or equivalent to the return tube. Place the other end of the hose in the clean container, repeat the test. If the pressure is now correct, check for a restricted fuel return line. If there is no change observed, replace the fuel pressure regulator.

it is a good idea to depressurise any fuel system before working on it to avoid injury.