2005 dodge caravan oil pan gasket damage, front inner tie rod loose, sway bar links loose boot leak how much will it cost to get this repaired

Your outer tie rod ends needs to be replaced and then align. The brakes is wearing quickly because your calipers are freezing up

Check for bad wheel balance, struts, lower ball joints ( no upper joints) , outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, lower control arm bushings , and finally a wheel alignment ,you have some bad looseness in one or more of these front end parts. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Check shocks.

I replaced both sway bar links as well as the bushings this past summer and things are still quiet. I had the same clunking noise as well when going over bumps (Drives you crazy!). Did you try changing the bushings as well? They are $16 for a set of Moog bushing at O'Reilly's. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOO0/K7406.oap?year=2001&make=Dodge&model=Grand%2BCaravan&vi=1400027&pt=02972&ppt=C0106

Caravan, Grand Voyager, Town and Country, Voyager, 2000-2004

Oil Pan - Removal & Installation

2.4L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Structural collar A/C compressor bracket to oil pan bolt Oil pan
4. Clean the oil pan and all gasket mating surfaces.

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Oil pan gasket to the block after applying engine RTV at the oil pump parting line Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Structural collar Negative battery cable
2. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
3. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
   

3.0L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Starter motor Front motor mount bracket Bending braces Torque converter dust shield Oil pan
   
   
   Fig. Oil pan mounting bolt tightening sequence-3.0L engine
   

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan all mating surfaces.
2. Apply RTV gasket material to the oil pan.
3. Install or connect the following:
   Oil pan. Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 inch lbs. (6 Nm). Torque converter dust shield Bending braces Front motor mount bracket Starter motor Negative battery cable
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.
   

3.3L & 3.8L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Engine oil dipstick Drive belt splash shield Strut to transaxle attaching bolt and loosen the strut to engine attaching bolts Transaxle case cover Oil pan fasteners Oil pan and gasket

To install:

1. Clean the oil pan and all mating surfaces.
2. Apply a 1 / 8 inch bead of gasket material at the parting line of the chain case cover and the real seal retainer.
3. Install or connect the following:
   New gasket on the oil pan Oil pan. Torque the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Transaxle case cover All bending brace bolts Drive belt splash shield Engine oil dipstick Negative battery cable
4. Fill the crankcase to the correct level.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

Hope helps (remember rated this).

If you want to repair the oil pan I would also check lower engine mount for leaking oil and cracks in anti sway bar near fitting's. This due to engine mount is oil filled. OEM sway bar is made of tubular steel and they crack easy. Replacement sway bar is solid steel. Here's the kicker. When they pull the lower frame to service oil pan. The engine mount and sway bar are attached to that frame. A honest mechanic should only charge for parts ($35 for mount and $100 for sway bar) and maybe a extra hour. My mechanic did all in 5 hours. FYI gasket is only $35 bucks. Good luck

You are on the right track. You may have overtightened the tie rods or the sway bar links. Whenever you do this much front-end work, you should always get the front-end re-aligned. The front-end mechanic will probably find and fix this as a normal part of the re-alignment at no extra cost.

I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!

There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
Please remember to rate this fix.

Had similar problem with 2003 Dodge GC. Replaced the parts you mention + rack & pinion, then to fix the now noticable whining noise, replaced power steering pump and pulley. Fortunately was under an extended warrentee at 46k miles.