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Question about bmw e60 2003

Before read dump bin cas2 for checking ISN, car start normal. but after that install cas2 to car , car cant start and have no terminal 15 ouput.reprogram, recode but cant solve the problem. Can you give me solution for this case

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Gypsybaron
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SOURCE: I cannot start BMW 545i normally.

Your car battery is dead. Or the cable from the battery to the 12V terminal has a bad connection.

Posted on Jul 06, 2009

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SOURCE: 2006 Chrysler 300 car wont start cant read the ecu

check battery and fuses

Posted on Jul 23, 2009

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1 Answer

Anti theft system on a 2005 nissan navara outlaw


When you disconnect the battery, you should disconnect for at least 2 hours. Put a bulb across the battery terminals to fully dissipate any power in electrical components and then hold the battery connectors together for 5 minutes. Put the key in the ignition, this is VERY important. Connect the negative terminal, connect the positive terminal in one movement. Leave 15 minutes for the systems to reset.

Mar 17, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Electrical system drains battery when vehicle not in use


Normal for a 3 year old battery. it has internal resistance that discharges it self.


Disconnecting the battery will not help.

A way to see if vehicle is causing the discharge,but it will dump the radio and clock settings....take off one of the battery terminals and put a test light (12 V.) between the terminal on the battery and the cable end. If the test light comes on,there is something ON in the car.

If the computer memory is dumped due to low voltage,the car has to "re learn" all of it's setting and will usually not idle well at all!

Please have the battery load tested after it has been fully charged.

Dec 25, 2012 | 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

How to replace a starter??


Ford Excursion, Expedition, Lincoln Navigator 2000-2005
Starter

Print


Removal & Installation

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.

    Negative battery cable
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal.


    Starter terminal cover Terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor Solenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Starter motor retaining bolts Starter motor from the vehicle

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Starter motor and retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). Bttery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Slenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid Sarter solenoid safety cap, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Ngative battery cable
  4. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable
  3. Raise the front of the truck and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Wiring from the starter motor terminals Starter motor retaining bolts, loosen Starter retaining bolts while supporting the starter motor Starter from the vehicle

To install:
  1. The installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the starter retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

4.6L, 5.4L & 6.8L Engines
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTE To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal.


    Starter terminal cover Terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor Solenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid
  5. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Starter motor retaining bolts Starter motor from the vehicle

To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:

    Starter motor and retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). Battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Solenoid S terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid Starter solenoid safety cap, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable.
  4. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation.

6.0L Diesel Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  3. Remove starter solenoid protective cap.
  4. Disconnect the starter motor electrical connections.
  5. Remove the bolts and the starter.

To install:
  1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

7.3L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Negative battery cable
  3. Raise the front of the truck and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Wiring from the starter motor terminals Starter motor retaining bolts, loosen Starter retaining bolts while supporting the starter motor Starter from the vehicle

To install:
  1. The installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the starter retaining bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)


Testing & Troubleshooting

Feed Circuit Test

  1. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
  2. Disconnect the Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch.
  3. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid S-terminal and the battery positive (+) terminal.
  4. Connect the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter positive lead to the battery positive (+) post. Connect negative lead to the starter solenoid M-terminal.

    0996b43f80204e8b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Motor feed circuit-S-terminal (1), remote starter switch (2), battery (3), Rotunda 73 digital multimeter (4), B-terminal (5), M-terminal (6)

  5. Engage the remote starter switch. Read and record the voltage. The voltage reading should be 0.5 volt or less.
  6. If the voltage reading is 0.5 volt or less, go to the Motor Ground Circuit Component Test.
  7. If the voltage reading is greater than 0.5 volt, indicating excessive resistance, move the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter negative lead to the starter solenoid B-terminal and repeat the test. If the voltage reading at the B-terminal is lower than 0.5 volt, the concern is either in the connections at the starter solenoid or in the solenoid contacts.
  8. Remove the cables from solenoid B-, S- and M-terminals. Clean the cables and connections and reinstall the cables to the correct terminals. Repeat Steps 3 through 6. If the voltage drop reading is still greater than 0.5 volt when checked at the M-terminal or less than 0.5 volt when checked at the B-terminal, the concern is in the solenoid contacts. Install a new starter motor.
  9. If the voltage reading taken at the solenoid B-terminal is still greater than 0.5 volt after cleaning the cables and connections at the solenoid, the concern is either in the positive (+) battery cable connection or in the positive battery cable itself.
  10. By moving the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter negative lead toward the battery and checking each mechanical connection point, the excessive voltage drop can be located. When the high reading disappears, the last mechanical point that was checked is the concern. Repair or install a new connection as required.

Ground Circuit Test
A slow cranking condition can be caused by resistance in the ground or return portion of the cranking circuit. Check the voltage drop in the ground circuit as follows:
  1. Disconnect the inertia fuel shutoff switch.
  2. Connect a remote starter switch between the starter solenoid S-terminal and the battery positive (+) terminal.
  3. Connect the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter positive lead to the starter motor housing (the connection must be clean and free of rust or grease). Connect the negative lead to the negative (-) battery terminal.

    0996b43f80204e8c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Motor ground circuit-Rotunda 73 digital multimeter (1), battery (2), S-terminal (3), M-terminal (4), B-terminal (5), remote starter switch (6)

  4. Engage the remote starter switch and crank the engine. Read and record the voltage reading. The reading should be 0.2 volt or less.
  5. If the voltage drop is more than 0.2 volt, clean the negative cable connections at the battery and body connections, and retest.
  6. If the voltage drop is greater than 0.2 volt, determine which way the current is flowing in the cable.
  7. Connect the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter positive lead to the end of the cable nearest battery positive.
  8. Connect the multimeter negative lead to the terminal at the other end of the cable.
  9. Crank the engine and observe the voltage reading. The voltage reading should be 0.2 volt or lower. If the voltage drop is too high, clean the terminal ends. Retest, and if still high, install a new cable. If the voltage reading is less than 0.2 volt and the engine still cranks slowly, install a new starter motor.

Voltage Drop Test

WARNING When servicing the starter motor or performing other underhood work in the vicinity of the starter motor, be aware that the heavy gauge battery input lead at the starter solenoid is "electrically hot" at all times.

WARNING A protective cap or boot is provided over the battery input terminal on all vehicle lines and must be installed after servicing. Be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable before servicing the starter motor.
Always make the Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter connections at the component terminal rather than at the wiring end connector. Making a connection at the wiring end connector could result in false readings because the meter will not pick up a high resistance between the wiring connector and the component.

Aug 05, 2012 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport hard to start after its warm and fluctuating oil pressure


Hi there:
It sounds like it could be oil pressure sending unit. I would check the connection on the sending unit. Below are the procedures for checking the sending unit, If it checks out good I would have a mechanical gauge set up to measure the pressure.

TESTINGTo test the normally closed oil lamp circuit, disengage the locking connector and measure the resistance between the switch terminal (terminal for the wire to the warning lamp) and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read 0 ohms.To test the sending unit, measure the resistance between the sending unit terminal and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read an open circuit (infinite resistance).Start the engine.Once again, test each terminal against the metal housing:The oil switch terminal-to-housing circuit should read an open circuit if there is oil pressure present.The sending unit-to-housing circuit should read between 15-80 ohms, depending on the engine speed, oil temperature and oil viscosity.To test the oil pressure sender only, rev the engine and watch the ohms reading, which should fluctuate slightly (within the range of 15-80 ohms) as rpm increases.If the above results were not obtained, replace the sending unit/switch with a new one.

Hope helps.

Mar 23, 2012 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

My car keeps dying out, could it be the battery or alternator?


unlikely, if it starts the battery is good because it just started the car and the alternator is good because it charged the battery the prior time it was running. i would put some thought into a fuel supply problem, such as the pressure falling off rapidly after a start; or something getting hot in the ignition systrem and failing causing a loss of spark.

Jul 25, 2011 | 1993 Ford Probe

1 Answer

Voltage guage showing low reading. Had alternator tested. They said it was bad. Replaced it. Only getting 13. something with engine running. 12. something with out running. A "guy" told me the new...


You can isolate the new alternator by starting the car and disconnecting the negative battery cable with engine running. Now measure the voltage at the positive terminal to a ground. This will be your alternator voltage under normal load (w/o battery). It should be 14-15 VDC and closer to 15 if it's new. If not, return the new alternator and try again. If the voltage is normal, try touching the negative cable back to the battery terminal and see if it takes it back to 13. If yes, maybe your battery has an internal short.

Aug 24, 2010 | 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab

1 Answer

Oil preasure switch location


GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre 1986-1999

Oil Pressure Sender

OPERATION
The oil pressure sender/switch relays the engine oil pressure to the dash gauge.

TESTING

  1. To test the normally closed oil pressure lamp circuit, disengage the locking connector and measure the resistance between the switch terminal (terminal for the wire to the warning lamp) and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read 0 ohms.
  2. To test the sending unit, measure the resistance between the sending unit terminal and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read an open circuit (infinite resistance).
  3. Start the engine.
  4. Once again, test each terminal against the metal housing:
    1. The oil switch terminal-to-housing circuit should read an open circuit if there is oil pressure present.
    2. The sending unit-to-housing circuit should read between 15-80 ohms, depending on the engine speed, oil temperature and oil viscosity.

  5. To test the oil pressure sender only, rev the engine and watch the ohms reading, which should fluctuate slightly (within the range of 15-80 ohms) as rpm increases.
  6. If the above results were not obtained, replace the sending unit/switch with a new one.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION(see Figure 1)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If necessary for access, raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. If necessary, drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
  4. Detach the switch electrical connector.
  5. Remove the switch.
59a675d.gif

Fig. 1: Location of the oil pressure switch - 1995 vehicle shown, others similar

To install:
  1. Coat the first two or three threads with sealer. Install the switch and tighten until snug. Engage the electrical lead.
  2. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  3. Fill the crankcase with the proper type and amount of engine oil.
  4. Connect the negative battery cable.

Hope helps with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Jan 21, 2010 | 1998 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Labors when starting. When turned over all lights and gauges go black, then back to normal


First, have the battery load tested (charge, put a 200 amp load on it and read voltage..(15-20 seconds only) .should not drop below 9.5 volts) After verifying that battery is good, put a volt meter across the battery terminals when installed. If cranking volts drops below 9.5 your starter is bad. Before testing anything on car, make sure all terminals and wire lead connections are clean and secure.

Oct 26, 2009 | 2007 Ford Mustang GT California Special...

1 Answer

Park brake light flashes 10 times. For 1989 Chevy 1500 pickup. What does this mean?


This truck probably has Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brakes. There is a small black module near master cylinder that is the brain for this system. There are ways to check for diagnostic trouble codes in this system. Once you have any codes set, diagnosis can be fairly simple. PROCEDURE:
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) 's can be displayed by jumping terminals "A" and "H" of the Data Link Connector and observing the flashing of the "BRAKE" warning light. This should only be done when the brake lamp is "ON".
The terminals must be jumped for about 20 seconds before the code will begin to flash. Count the number of short flashes starting from the long flash. Include the long flash as a count. Sometimes the first count sequence will be short. However, subsequent flashes will be accurate. If there is more than one failure, only the first recognized code will be retained and flashed.

NOTES:
DTC's 6, 9 and 10 will only turn the "BRAKE" lamp on while the fault exists. These are soft codes faults and can only be read with the Tech 1 scan tool.
Do not jump terminals "A" to "H" if the "BRAKE" lamp is not on. Jumping the terminals with the "BRAKE" lamp off will set a false DTC 9. This will turn the "BRAKE" lamp on and disable the antilock system.

d09165f.gif
  • 1, 11, & 12 ECU Malfunction
  • 2 Open Isolation Valve or Malfunctioning ECU
  • 3 Open Dump Valve or ECU Malfunction
  • 4 Grounded Antilock Valve Reset Switch
  • 5 Eccessive Actuations of the Dump Valve
  • 6 Erratic Speed Signal
  • 7 Shorted Isolation Valve or Faulty ECU
  • 8 Shorted Dump Valve or Faulty ECU
  • 9 Open Circuit to Speed Signal
  • 10 Brake Lamp Switch Circuit
  • 13, 14 and 15 ECU Malfunction
  • Sep 29, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet C1500

    1 Answer

    1992 Eagle Talon TSI Fuel Pump not coming on like normal


    the book just told me the fuel pump relay is near the ecm under the center console and to test it put the positive to terminal 10 and negative to terminal 8 and with power to the relay connect the negative probe of a voltmeter to the battery negative terminal (where the - is to the relay) and connect the positive to terminal 4 then 5 it should read out about 12 volts at each terminal, connect the jumper leads terminal 9 to battery (+) and terminal 6 to the battery (-) and with those relays connected to the relay check for continuity between terminals 3 and 2 there should be continuity remove the ground from terminal 6 the ohmmeter should read now read no continuity install jumper lead to terminal 3 to battery (+) and terminal 7 to battery (-) check for voltage at terminal 2 and battery (-) should be about 12 volts remove (-) from terminal 7 now should read nothing if anything doesn't read out what i said replace it and the numbers for he terminals start from the plug part you had to push on to remove the wires it goes 1-5 on the top and the bottom 1-6 and this would be with the clip on top if this did not help let me know i will read off the next part to check

    Dec 29, 2008 | 1992 Eagle Talon

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