A T sensor on throttle body cover and iat sensor just below the tps
Your fuel pressure should be between 48-50psi. I think your combination Fuel Filter/Regulator is clogged. Too much fuel pressure can be just as bad as not enough. You may have more than one issue though. You mentioned that while slowing down or traveling over bumpy roads, the truck "goes dead". This symptom sounds more electrical than mechanical. I might start by looking scanning for codes. See if there is anything in the history or current. A loose or faulty wire, loose or corroded connector, ground or worn component could cause your truck to loose power. This trick doesn't help everyone but it takes a second to find out. If you suspect a faulty TPS, depress the gas pedal .5-1" and try to start the engine. If it starts with it feathered but dies when you release the pedal or wont start with the pedal released. Then take a closer look at that connector and sensor. Please let me know if there is anything else. Good Luck.
the only sensor i have not replaced is the cam shaft and map sensor.i think it might be a wire or maybe the pcm.something is not telling the injectors to work right.once i put gas in throttle body it idles great and revs up try to drive it rpm jumps to zero and it dead again
code checker first said crank sensor so i replaced it now it says at and iat so i replaced them it still comes up same codes after undoing the battery to erase them (five min off on battery) should have cleared codes not showing up pd so should be current codes
You may be right about a wiring issue. I still feel that you have a fuel issue that needs attention. You stated that the truck will start, idle great and rev. If you put gas inside the throttle body. If the injectors were a problem, once the supply of gas ran out the the engine would stumble or die. I cant help but focus on two things. That it will only start and run if you prime the throttle body and the engine will only die if you try to drive it. I still think she may have more than one problem. Regardless, you have cleared the codes and they come back immediately. The ECU still indicates an active problem. Do me a favor. Do you have a multimeter or digital test light? Use one of them to probe the two terminals for the IAT sensor. One terminal is ECU ground and you will test for 12 volts (other lead connected to positive battery terminal). The other terminal is also from the ECU but you will test for 5 volts reference voltage (other lead connected to negative battery terminal). Is the correct voltage there? If not, look for a bad wire, connection or possible bad ECU. Let me know and good luck.
im no mach. but i pulled the wire off iat one side said 12 volts other nothing tried with switch off and with the switch in the on pos.after battery being off all night i got code 122 113 508 ...122 is the tps i replaced 113 and 508 are the iat codes could be because i had wire connection off to check it before checking codes
Yes, that is a result. With the key in the RUN position and the other lead attached to ground. You should have seen 5 volts (+ reference voltage). Check the wiring for damage, the connectors at both ends of the harness (for corrosion or damage). The ECU could be to blame but save that for last. Will you start with the harness? If you did cause codes because something was left unplugged. You should plug those components back in and clear the codes again. Then scan for codes to see what is still present, if any. Good work.
think this has a pcm instead of a ecu those connection looked good no loose or bad wires yet still looking
i unplugged the aic and checked the wire harness in the on pos.12 volts one side zero other guess that was right i grew up doing basic mant. on older cars these new ones with all the electronics blows my mind
Yes Dodge refers to their ECU as a PCM. I was saying it generically lol. ECM, ECU, PCM, TCM. Module this and module that lol. Do you have a multimeter? Are you going to check for continuity in that pin? My biggest issue is staying current and having the right software for these new vehicles. Some of the new diesels with the aftertreatment systems are a real pain if you don't have the right software. Talk soon.
going to by a book on the truck today to try to help track it down and find which wire is which not even sure i checked the right sensor computer showing two different things for the aic sensor one goes into the neck of the air filter looks like a little diod in it the other is big and bolts in the throttle body under the tps..wish i would have took mach.class in high school instead of construction 40 yrs ago lol but both of those has been replaced one was 18 dollars the other 73 dollars also have replaced the tps and crank sensor have not tried the cam sensor yet
In the neck of the duct (with a little Diode) is the IAT sensor. The solenoid or stepper motor, next to the TPS is called the IAC (Idle Air Control) or AAC (Auxiliary Air Control). The same color coded wires that run to both sensors, are the same color codes at the PCM connector. I believe a few of the engine temperature and pressure sensors share the same return signal PCM ground. If you run into trouble I will try to get you the wiring information Monday night. I think the book is a good idea regardless. Talk soon.
got the book waste of money chilton used to be good now very very basic really no trouble shooting in it dose not explain any malfunctions basic codes and a little wiring on speakers and light. cleaned the throttle body with a aerosol cleaner looked dirty it cranked after a little while but surged when you give it gas.still showing tps low voltage and crank sensor low voltage.going to remove heat sheilding from crank sensor wire and look for hot spots or melted insulation tomorrow
I am sorry to hear about the Chiltons. I agree, they used to have more diagrams and information. So you didn't mention the IAT or IAC. Are those codes gone? You only have the TPS & CKP sensor? Both coded for low voltage? The TPS and CKP share the same 5 volt ref. voltage. The return signal from each component is separate and both grounds are separate. I feel like you are getting close, keep going. Tell me what you lack for information and I will try to get it for you for tomorrow night.
Hey I thought of your truck issue today. Here are those schematics you were looking for. 
I know you said the Air Temp. Sensor was in the air filter neck but I researched it and could only find two air temp. sensors. The IAT (in the plenum) and the Ambient Air Temp. sensor which is supposedly attached underneath the hood, near the lamp (under hood). Now go get em. lol Good Luck.
thanks have not got to work on it for the last three days with work and non stop rain no place in the dry..some one gave me the name of a good dodge mach.who does side work cheap but all i get his voice mail and he is not returning my calls.this one is a little beyond my know how.cant afford to haul it to a shop and pay then 125 for the first hour 75 a hr after that and said it could take 2 to 3 days to track it down or longer.just have to keep trying stuff till i figure it out.really starting to think its a ground or bad wire
Thank you very much for writing back. I was wondering how you were making out with this repair. I totally understand your dilemma. The truth is. Some repairs can be quick and others can take days or longer. Depending on the fault or failure. Shops have lots of software, tools and technical support. It will take you longer but I don't think it is impossible. Write you test results down. I can not remember everything so I write it all down for future reviewing. If I can help with questions or more specific diagnostic information, let me know. No rush. I'm out hear all the time lately. I wish you Good Luck as always. ttyl
the sensor was in the plenum and one was under the throttle,pos sensor,i cleaned the throttle body with a spray type cleaner it did crank after turning over and over and over it idle ok but when i gave it gas it started surging real bad still cant drive it still popping up codes for tps and ap sensor. this truck did not come with a light under hood its a base model thanks for your help to bad you dont live around gallant ala.lol
Galant Alabama?! Wow, No kidding?... Sorry, over hear in Boston, Ma. But if I could I would. You may be write. Only time will tell. Check the ECT sensor for proper operations. The coolant temp. sensor shares the same PCM ground wire. Also food for thought. Another thing to consider is "Cause and affect". Your throttle is by wire. The APP sensor sends information and commands to the PCM, that information creates changes and adjustments to other systems. You said you have two codes. TPS & APP. What are those two codes? Is one of them still P0122? You need to find out if this is a failure of one component, a correlation issue, bad ground or bad PCM. Quick story: I worked on a car today, 2014 Buick Regal. Rough idle, random misfire and stalls when you come to a stop. Pulled two codes. P0300 and P2135. Long and short. 3 & 4 had fouled plugs. Performed a tune up and fuel service, Road tested, no more stalling at light but still had rough idle and code P2135. Confirmed through live date (scan tool) that the TAC was working but the TPS wasn't. (The ECU didn't know what to do because the information provided by the TPS was messed up) Replaced the TAC and the car was all set. You will find your problem but it will take time. ttyl
missed with the truck today i was told the cam sensor will sometimes cause false readings and cause it to surge.swapped it out nothing it will crank and idle if you keep gringing it but at 2500 rpm it starts surging again.same codes PO122 and PO355 one i think is ap sensor the other is low voltage on tps sensor
No. Code P0355 is for the ignition coil on cylinder number five.
P0355 code definition. When the PCM (powertrain control module) identifies an electrical malfunction in ignition coil B's primary or secondary circuit, it will set code P0355 to indicate the problem. The Check Engine Light will then illuminate. Yes, your right. P0122 is for the TPS. A P0122 code means that the the car's computer has detected that the TPS (throttle position sensor) is reporting too low a voltage.
You can check the connections to that coil, test the two wires to the coil and check the spark plug. IDK if you know what to do so just incase. Use a test light. Remove the connection from cyl. 5 coil. Ground the lead and turn the ignition to run. test the two pins. Find the one that shows 12 volts. This part you will need a helper. Connect the test light lead to (+) battery power. Test the other pin by connecting your test light to it and ask your helper to crank the engine other. If you see a normal constant pulse your wiring is ok and the coil is bad. I provided you with the wiring schematic for the TPS sensor. Test those wires and confirm that it has Sensor ground and 5 volts. The third wire is delivering information back to the PCM. That is the return signal voltage. Because the voltage is lower, use a multimeter or digital test light to be safe. You will need a scan tool to view the the PCM data for that circuit. There is still a lot of data that you can view with a multimeter and a couple sewing needles. Ay questions please write back. Good Luck.
my mistake it not code 355 its code 335 the pcm is not getting the crank shaft sensor signal in first few seconds of crank and 122 low voltage on the tps .sorry for the listing the wrong code my memory is a little off sometimes since my heart attack in 2014.dont know if it related i dont think so but the radio stopped working but i think its the the removable face going out on it i had another radio do the same thing its just funny it happing at the same time.might try to unplug the radio tomorrow just to see if it makes a differance or not.
Well that is a horse of a different color. Well the service manual reads. Often the problem will be the opposite sensor. A bad CPS can trigger a CKP sensor code and vice versa. I would suggest testing both connecters and related wiring. In the beginning you mentioned that the only sensors you didn't replace were the CPS and MAP. You may want to change out the CPS. Please remember to keep that battery fully charged. For the health of the starter, PCM functions and testing. Keep in touch please ttyl.
talked to a level 4 mechanic in fla he suggested going to a junk yard and getting a pcm and trying it,he said he gets them there for about 50 dollars checking junk yards on line around here it more like 337 dollars.but i have found some places on line you can get them for 199 refurbished and programed to the vin.he said any pcm for a 3.7 automatic trans should work the only thing might be the rear end ratio but it wouldnt hurt it just throw a code.going to keep looking. he seemed sure its the pcm because it not showing the crank sensor when starting and it trying to start off the cam sensor going to be a busy week at work hope to find the time to work on it dont like not having a ride im 58 to old to walk to far lol
also have not found the map sensor on this truck will keep looking
The MAP sensor is also attached to the plenum. I believe yours is located in the center front of the engine. Well I don't disagree with the level 4 mechanic. Honestly without a scan tool to look at live data. You are left with either replacing parts or a longer process of using a multimeter and confirming sensor ground, signal voltage and return voltage. Did you use the schematics that I provided? The pin outs will identify the wires from and to the PCM. With a test light and a multimeter you can confirm that the wires are good, the components are good and after that. If everything passes. You can know without any doubt that the PCM is bad. Its always good to get a second opinion but the tests will stop you from spending money. I tell people all the time. You can have five cars, all with the same symptoms and they will not have the same problem. My fingers are crossed for you. Please update me on your status. Good Luck.
PS. Found this on Ebay. PCM used fits 2005 Dodge Ram 1500, for $62. free shipping. Comes with a 6 month warranty. eBay item number: 312234849513
thanks it a really busy week working dark going to work and dark when i get home probably not going get to work on it till this week end.
i need a scan tool lol
finely got some one with a scan tool he is surpose to come over today..hopefully he shows and hopefully he knows what he is doing
Duane!!! Good news. This person is a friend? From our last chat I thought you had made up your mind and would be buying a used PCM. I don't blame you. I'm not a fan if the parts cannon either. I do hope this person helps and points you in the right direction. Thanks again for the update.
no luck the guy came out with a code reader not a scanner waste of time.two local shops say they had the same problem on the same model truck and they said pcm sooo i ordered one off line someplace called all computer resources in homestead fla. 211 dollars hope the company is legit and it fixes the problem.it surposed to be programmed with my vin and millage.just plug and play..little nervous cant seem to get to a real person when i call its all automated.was looking through the warenty and found in small print a core charge of 100 if not sent in.not sure why it was hidden there instead of the main page but.....maybe i will get lucky
No there is definitely a core. How did you come across the Fl. company? Did the Dodge techs recommend them? I can not believe your pal came over will only a code reader. I am very sorry. That was silly. Well I have a good feeling. This will fix it. $211. is a good price too. The used one on eBay would have temped me but then $211. would have turned into $279. I get it. I am routing for you. Thank you so much for the update. My fingers are crossed. Good Luck Duane.
still waiting on the part ..i found it just by google if it not here monday i will get ups to track it
It is taking longer than expected but it is eBay. All depends on the seller. Thank you very much for the update. I really want to hear some good news lol.
well got the computer put it in turned the key to on for 5 min. like it said turned the key off 5 sec. cranked it up idle great no codes put in rev.to back out of drive it goes dead recrank it put it in gear goes dead ....got to borrow a trailer try to take it to a shop with a dia.computer see if they can figure it out im stumped.thats about 500 in parts and still the same thing but it did clear the codes so im keeping the PCM. they would charge a ungodly amount in restocking anyway.
found a dodge dealership who said it is elec.issue if i can get a trailer and get it to them it would be 130 to find the issue.so we will see i know i went to mr transmission when i lived in fla had a lebaron that would not shift after stopping at a light.they said six hundred to rebuild then it was 750 then 900 and when i got it back it still did not work.he said oh thats not your trans.it your computer i asked why rebuild the trans if it the ecm he said that what we do rebuild trans.could not find a lawyer who would take the case.my neighbor got screwed by a chev.dealership 1100 to fix a trans. problem witch broke 6 months later we started looking all they did was splice a pink and white wire that melted on his engine then they did not tie it back so it did it again....sorry rambling not much luck with shops but no other options.thanks for trying will let you know if dodge fixes it for less then a new truck lol
This situation is like a roller coaster ride. I hate roller coasters lol. When you first started writing I was happy for you. It was short lived but that is how the cookie crumbles. I thought, you Finally found it. Motor starts and runs and no codes. Until you put the truck in reverse. Will it start and run both in park and neutral? Will the engine die if you select drive? Does the transmission die as soon as you select reverse or does it idle in reverse? Just curious because there is a relearn procedure. Since the PCM is knew to the truck. The engine has to idle for a while so it can gather information. Maybe further diagnostics is needed, idk. Its interesting that there are no codes. An electrical failure within the drivetrain should trigger an engine light or code. There is a possibility that two or more ignition cycles need to be performed or that there is some type of mechanical problem. I just wonder if you didn't let it run long enough before trying to drive it. Yes, please stay in touch. I wish you luck. Sorry to hear about your friend that was taken advantage of by the dealer. it happens all too often. ttyl
well got it back from dodge today 142 dollars not bad and it made it home so thats a good start.lol they reconfigured the pcm reconfigured the tcm and reconfigured the crank sensor also did three recalls i did not know it had. both air bags and a retainer pinon nut.so far it running i think they got it.least im hoping lol thanks for your input and time
WOW!!! So far so good. I really do hope this problem is behind you. You put a lot of time into the diagnostics. It really sounds like Dodge took care of you. $142. is really nothing considering what it would have been. Congratulations. Thank you so much for writing back. I'm used to hearing the bad news so this is a nice change lol. Take care of yourself Duane. God Bless.
well its not fixed it broke down in birmingham about 70 miles away so now i get to get a tow truck thats 150 dollars to get it back to dodge some reason the local tow companys wont bill the insurance company so i get to fight with the insurance to get at least a part of my money back i think they pay like 100 for towing isnt life great lol i just hope dodge can fix it right this time and not break the bank...sorry felt like bending some one ear lol
Damn!... I am so sorry to hear the new news. Don't worry about my ears lol. I don't mind. I just wish I could help. I know you've only had the truck back for a week but have you been using it everyday? I am surprised that she is down so soon. Please let me know what they say it is. I too hope the Dealer doesn't rack up a big bill. Good Luck.
good news they think they found whats wrong the bad news its the power distribution control 1300 dollars.when they got it it would not crank so he tapped it with a rubber hammer it cranked ran fine tapped it again and it went dead did that several times so they are pretty sure its the power dist.control nothing to do but bite the bullet beg borrow and steal the 1300 lol.god i hope this fixes it im to old for this the blood pressure lol figured it was something like that because every time i hit a bump or railroad track the truck lost power
No Kidding!... $1,300. It does sound like they know without a doubt. They can duplicate the failure. That is enough evidence to me. Do you know if this was the trucks problem all along or was it not related? This is good news and bad news for sure. Are you going to ask for the old one back? Its probably water under the bridge but for me. I would need to know what failed. I'd take it apart lol. Duane I am sorry this old girl is giving you such a hard time. It needs to get repaired but I would be kicking and screaming if I had to lol. Thank you for letting me know. I do hope this is it for a long time. ttyl
well good news dodge said my truck was 100 percent fixed and cut me a deal only 800 dollars bad news i did not make it home it first few bumps i hit ran fine thought they had it then it went dead and came back next bump rpm went to zero then started back running the next 4 times i had to put it in nuetral and restart it got it back to dodge i was not a happy camper he got in it took it down the street it died on him said not to worry they will fix it told him that 1600 i spent allready cant keep throwing parts at it he said no worrys they got me covered ill believe it when i see it .they replaced the TIPM 300 for part 390 for lab mechanial and a few other little charges.if a dodge master mechanic with 30 years exp.cant fix it i think its hopeless.they said the old one had burn marks like it was shorting out and the computer said it was bad so i dont know i know its doing the same thing it was always doing.arghhhhh
i think i must have made the car gods mad at me lol
Duane you have to be making this up. I am so sorry. This situation has moved beyond ridiculous. I think you did in fact upset the car Gods lol. At this point the dealership has taken your money two times and each time they told you it was fixed. The symptoms are the same and it still continues to break down. Ethically and professionally they need to repair it at their expense or reimburse you. When you installed the PCM the first time. Did you notice burned wires? If not you need to communicate that with them. If it comes up do not let them tell you it was preexisting if it wasn't. A master mechanic with +30 yrs of experience. He needs to do better. My boss likes me to move cars in and out as fast as possible. I get it. But I refuse to rush to the point that my workmanship is less than acceptable or may be a come back. I would also address that they need to perform a proper road test before calling you down. At this point it would be a bad idea to go somewhere else. Hold them liable and still to your guns. They don't like doing things for free but it is their turn to spend some money. Hang in there Duane and good luck.
i thought they had it because the first few blocks it ran great after about 5 miles the bumps was killing the motor.they said they would have it fixed and they had me covered dont know if that means they going pay for it or not but i will go to the big boss there if it breaks again after they say it fixed. no burned wires i could see.
I didn't think the wires were burned while you worked on it. You would have noticed that. The plugs going to the PCM, you didn't have any trouble plugging them in did you? You didn't have to force them because for some strange reason the plugs didn't want to line up, right? I'm sure you are going to answer "No". Just seem so strange for the PCM to all of a sudden short out. I hope they do the right thing and cover this. I would definitely hold them responsible. I will say that I was surprised to hear that there was of testing the power distribution box was by tapping on it with a rubber mallet. It did sound like they found it but I was hoping to hear later. That they found the break in a harness going to the box, not that it was the box itself. I feel that they are going to find out that a related harness shorted and melted a few wires going to the PCM. I really want to know what happened to melt that plug. Don't you? Didn't they work on the PCM? Didn't they remove it, touch it or reprogram it? Its not even my truck and I find myself feeling upset lol. Well did you apologize to the car gods?... Just kidding. Hang in there. I really am hoping you hear some long term good news soon. Good Luck.
been a little over a week and dodge still has no clue they got two guys going wire by wire trying to find the problem. they said again it free this time but i need my truck. hope they find it soon if not maybe they will find me another truck to swap for it would be cheaper on them at this point but they wont im sure.heres hoping they ind it soon and fix it lol
Electrical shorts can be very time consuming. If they are going "Wire to Wire" this can take all day or even days. They should be getting close to it. Did they say they have been working on it everyday since it arrived? I am kinda leaning towards, they are working on it in between other jobs. I know you need the truck but they are losing money now. They probably do have two guys on it but i don't think it has been everyday for five days straight. They should be close to a solution. If they can't fix it they should at the least reimburse you for both repairs. I would love to hear from you about what the failure was. Its weird that your PCM connection overheated. It happened after the power distribution box was replaced correct? The thing is. A wire or connector will overheat near or at the course of the failure. So either the connection to the PCM was loose or incorrect, the wire was frayed or there was a short inside the PCM. If the PCM itself was faulty to begin with. The PCM should have failed before the first hour of driving. The only thing that would cost you in their hunt for the problem is if they find that the OEM wiring was altered. Meaning, if you or someone before you added a new circuit on to an existing circuit. Grabbing power from a fuse or slicing into a wire is a big no no unless you protect the existing circuit first. I really hope this doesn't apply to you. I am currently working on a 2008 Workhorse. Its a weird hybrid but only in how it is constructed, it has a gas engine (6.0L Vortec) but the transmission is a 4L80E. In 2008 GM was installing their newer 6L80E & 6L90E transmissions. I've had the box truck for more than a week. The truck is neglected and has been a pain to diagnose. Heavily rusted ground straps and so on. Three active engine codes (P0159. P0332 & P2761). All active failures. The 02 was easy (bad sensor). The plenum had to come off because GM decided to place both Knock sensors in the valley (The failed (KS) was submerged under water), 4 hours to fix, thanks for nothing GM. The TCC code took a long time (3 days). I replaced a faulty pressure control solenoid, cleared the codes and road test. Everything was back to normal, so I thought lol. Im working on the ABS system and the engine light turned on for the same transmission code. Dropped the pan again and verified no ground signal from the PCM. I either had a bad PCM or wire. Traced the broken wire six inches back from the PCM connecter and repaired it. The affected harness was resting on a metal bracket and cut the related signal wire. So I get it. I know things go wrong and can take longer than expected. I really do hope they find the route of the problem soon. Please stay in touch and good luck. If I don't hear from you soon. I wish you a Happy Thanksgiving. Best Regards. Larry.
good news they know whats wrong bad news it cant be fixed.the wire harness is bad and they dont make one to fit that truck anymore.they might could find one on e bay but installed and all it could run up to 1500 or more and might not be any better then whats in it.dont know what to do with it.they where bragging how good the motor cranked and ran untill it hit a bump so he goes to crank it so i could hear it and it would not start.said he just parked it it was running great i said welcome to my world.
Maybe there is more wrong with the harness than is being said but why can they not repair it? This is terrible news. I thought they promised to fix your truck at their expense. You spent enough money. Isn't it their turn? Are they going to refund you your money? They misdiagnosed the fuse box and since they didn't find the true problem and told you that it was all set. The newly reprogrammed PCM was damaged along with the connector. What are you going to do? This is terrible. Wow, I am so sorry. All that time, energy and money spent, for nothing. They need to at the least, locate a replacement harness for you and fix it. You have spent and lost too much money and time. This is what I has afraid of for you. Your vehicle is no longer a money maker and it sounds like they are trying to weasel out of this dilemma. I hope you escalate this to management. You may want to seek legal council. Unless you left something out. This is not the out come you deserve. I do wish you good luck.
they said they looked around but nobody makes that harness any more and one from the junk yard is 50/50 shot in the dark. i might have to have it towed home and list it as a part truck it has a good motor and transmission it never been wrecked the body is in great shape and the paint is good.dont know what else to do they want to sell me another truck but i cant handle anymore payments.and all my work is cash based no w2 or 1099 and i dont put it in the bank i use cash to pay the bills.the wife all ready has a 565 dollar car payment on her wal mart paycheck so buying another on payments is out of the question.maybe some one has a good rolling chassie with a harness in it and needs my truck for motor ect... have to list it and see should get at least 2500 to 3000 as it sits ...i hope then will just have to save more money and try to pay cash for a used one from somebody..at this point im not sure what to do.im going to talk to management but im sure they will try to weasle out of it. they can afford a a lawyer i cant
Damn Duane. I am so sorry. You are stuck between a rock and a hard place. You need to insist on a refund. They told you 2x what your truck needed to be repaired. They did not fix your truck. They did not diagnose it correctly. Also the service dept. promised to repair your truck after the second failed attempt. Also seeing the used harness as a 50/50 chance of repairing the truck is a lie. They are exaggerating. The truth in hindsight is that their ability to diagnose a truck correctly is 50/50. To me you have all the right to be disappointed and dissatisfied. They have not done enough. Offering a solution that you can not afford is not a reasonable solution. Duane I am nothing short than upset. Hearing how they are dealing with your situation is unacceptable and unprofessional. They can do much better and they need to do much better. I wish you luck.
ok first they say they cant fix it because they cant find the part.i found the part in 5 min made one phone call to a junk yard they went on there system and found me one in ga for 150 plus 20 shipping dodge said good part number.now they told me they would do labor if i found the part now that i got the part found they are saying its a ten hour job at 130 a hr and they cant do that for free. said cowboys down the road will do it for 350. i think they are guessing again and afraid if they do it and it dont work they going be really screwed.im going to talk to the head mang.tomorrow dont think it will do any good but if not i will tow it to somebody else then take a news add and tell everybody what to expect if they go to dodge in gadsden.
think i will talk to my cousin husband he is a judge and see if i have a legal footing or not
I don't blame you. I think that is a good idea. Dodge has an obligation to you. You only agreed to spend your money because they told you the repairs would fix your truck. I understand that the PCM needed to be programmed to your specific truck, I get that. There is no doubt in my mind that they misdiagnosed your truck the second time. I don't believe your truck needed the power Distribution Box. I believe that the way they diagnosed your truck was not correct. I too practice similar techniques such as the "Wiggle and Tap" test. But it is the technicians responsibility to confirm that the source is the Fuse Box and not the related wiring. Also I believe that because they missed the failure while the truck was there. More time allowed the wiring to become further damaged. They are not going to come straight out and admit that they damaged your truck. The PCM and connector was fine and undamaged until after the Fuse Box was replaced. I hate to sound like a broken record but I remember your words. They promised to fix your truck after the second failed attempt. I was afraid that they would weasel out of the repairs. I told you that your truck was no longer a "Money Maker". I am directly involved in the repair business. I hate when big corporations put profits before customer service. Please let me know how your meeting goes. Good Luck. Also. It is a shot in the dark. I don't know if your local news station provides a service like in my area. We have something called "Ask Sal". Basically you contact them and explain your situation. If they like your story they will investigate the company and are it on the news. Usually the added pressure persuades them to do the right thing. Companies hate bad pliability.
my cousin husband is a lawyer and judge he said there is no law that comes to mind they broke.i could take my chances in small claims court but it would depend on what judge i got and the mood he or she was in.so i towed my truck from dodge to another shop who does a lot of wiring he said in 22 years he never had to replace a harness.he said if the truck had been in a fire maybe but this just a case of dodge not wanting to fix it.they look for the quick fix .with the most money.told him if he can fix it for 500 or less go for it but im not holding my breath.cant keep putting money into a losing battle.it cranked to load it on the truck but would not crank to unload it.hope he finds and fixes it.he seems sure he can
been a week and they have not looked at it yet.they wanted it now they got it they not even looking at it.i guess good honest bussiness dont exist any more .all i can do at this point is wait
WELL THEY LOOKED AT IT TODAY HE IS TRACING DOWN THE 5 VOLTS TO SEE WHERE IT IS LOSING IT.SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT HE IS TALKING ABOUT.SAID DODGE TECS,BROKE ALL THE LOCKING PINS ON THE PCM CONECTORS.THINK THEY WOULD HAVE KNOWN TO SLIDE THE LOCK OFF BEFORE PULLING THE PLUGS OFF.HOPPIONG FOR THE BEST..MERRY CHRISTMAS
ok got my truck back.thinking its fixed..fingers crossed...the guy found a stud sticking out of the back side of the valve cover and it had pinched the wire harness between it and the fire wall.the stud went thru the harness skinning some wires back.he repaired the wires and it made it home thats a start lol.only charged me 135 for working on it which was not bad just hoping it fixed for good this time im hopefull
I am crossing my fingers on both hands lol. I really hope this truly fixes the problem. What a roller coaster ride this has been for you. I hope to hear from you again. That you so much for the up date. I have taken a break from answering questions on Fixya. Not everyone is kind and easy to talk with as you are. Sad but true lol. Duane I hope you and yours have a fantastic Christmas. Take care and be safe. Happy Holidays...
been a week and so far so good i think they got it i now know who to take it too for repairs..now i need to put rotors and breaks on the wife 2013 honda odessea about 200 dollars in parts think i can do that work but the truck needs upper and lower ball joint upper is on control are lower i think is pressed in again about two hundred in parts might have to take that one in i think the lower is pressed in and i dont have a hydrolic press lol its never ending but life goes on have a good one and try to stay warm up there lol
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Try checking your fuel regulator.
ended up bad wire harness which they dont make any more.might could get one from a junk yard but it could be worse then whats in it.dodge says it un fixable they have had it for the last month working on it
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Bad fuel pump 98% most lilely. Replace and flush the system.
This sounds like a fuel pump that is starting to go bad ,or a clogged fuel pump sock filter. Good Luck Friend.
SOURCE: cranks but no start
this might not help you, but, just yesterday i bought a 98 k2500 that wouldn't run. guy i bought it from said he was driving it and it just quit. after checking all the usual items, i replace the coil wire and it fired right up. i ended up replacing all the plugs and wires and it runs and idles very well now. hope this helps someone.
SOURCE: 2002 ram 1500 4.7 liter no start
Replace your camshaft sensor and check for a vacuum leak in your intake manifold, mostly towards the back. If you have a leak it will give false readings on your code reader. My truck was doing the same thing and we found the endcap on the maifold had blown off after a back-fire. We reglued the endcap and replaced crank and camshaft sensor and the truck runs better than it ever has!!! GOOD LUCK!!!!
Please list what you have done so far. I would suggest looking for an exhaust leak and do a back pressure test before the CAT. If the CAT has broke internally it could be letting the exhaust leave the CAT too quickly.
SOURCE: i have 2001 dodge ram 1500 with a 5.2. when i try
Hi I litoshop first you have to check battery voltage while starting and have your truck scanned it sounds like there's a sensor is failing western auto or pep boy usually give a free scan to there customer good luck
SOURCE: 1994 chevy with 5.7 L
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. When the engine is cold the leak is there but as the engine warms up the parts start to expand thus closing the gaps and sealing the leak. I had this problem on my personal vehicle and it turned out to be lower intake gaskets.
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