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L have replaced brake booster ,master brake cylinder, brake rotors,,brake pads,,have bleed brake lines no air left in system good brake pedal when engine is not running,,,start engine brake pedal goes to floor,,very little brakes
yep this is a two man job, onece you get air in the lines is better to do all four, my has abs and i was able to do it, but next time don't take anylines lose just turn the piston clockwise and you should be able to push it in.
do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.
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Sounds like you have an air lock in your distribution block or it could be a bad distribution block all together. Sometimes you can tap it lightly and the air lock will bleed out. Also check your vacuum booster. If it is real hard to press the brake petal down, with the motor running, the vacuum booster diaphragm is blown, or there is a vacuum leak in the line to the booster. Pull the vacuum line off the booster with the engine running to see if there is vacuum to the booster, this will likely make the engine stall out if the booster is working properly. A little trick I do when bleeding my brakes is take about 16 inches of clear tubing that fits the bleeder, then get a quart Mason jar stick the tubing that is attached to the bleeder into the jar, then add about and inch of brake fluid to the jar and start pumping the petal. Always keep an eye on the jar and your master cylinder as to not let the master cylinder run out, or the jar to overflow. Hope this helps, good luck. If I think of something else I'll do another post.
Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem
Probably there is a leak in the hydraulic brake line hoses
connecting the master and the wheel cylinder hose. Also get the brakes bleeded
to remove any air the system. also get the check valve of the brake booster
checked and the vacuum hose.
well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.
If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.
Bleeding the Brake System (ABS)Auto Bleed ProcedureNOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below. NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.
To trouble shoot the brake system you have to check:AntiLock Brake System ABS: Hydraulic Modulator Basically this unit holds steady or bleeds off pressure in brake line, as necessary, when the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) detects an abnormal deceleration in the speed of the wheel. On 2000 and later models the EBCM and Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) are mounted on a bracket attached on the left strut tower. Wheel Speed Sensors, brake fluid level, brake hoses and lines, inspect and replacement, Brake hydraulic system-bleeding, Brake light switch, check, adjustment and replacement. Disk brake caliper, disk brake pads, drum brake shoes, master cylinder, master cylinder reservoir, O-rings replacement, parking brake adjustment, parking brake cables inspect and replacement, parking brake shoes-replacement, power brake booster, check or replacement, wheel cylinder inspect and replace.
Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.
Sounds like two issue. The ABS unit might need replacement (known issue for ABS lights on) and the brakes need to be quality parts (ATE, Brembo, Girling, etc.) , not discount auto or pep boy type brakes. Those don't stop well. If the pedal travel is excessive, bleed the brake system first. If its still excessive, its most likely the master cylinder, not the booster (booster will make the pedal hard).
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