Witch is the hot wire on a 2002 for escape v6 alternator plug replacing pigtail for alt i have a blk yell strip and a green red strip

Check ECM signal

Sounds like you have the wrong part.Did you buy it new or is it used?

Hopefully this helps. In the wiring diagram the B+ wire is the large red battery cable that bolts to the back of the alt and is not part of the plug.






I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

why post non usa cars to USA forum>????
hint, we dont have M13 here. (EPA ******* here)
then not telliny your county.
why"?
my guess is you think all cars same, all suzuki same world wide and all suzuki have 1 radio.
sorry that don't fly.
but most posts here are just like this, hopeless.


wild guess 1:
here is our last swift, sold USA.,(not a m13 for sure)
wires
MAin set; and speakers last.
wht/blk, = ign. on. power 12v
white = memory , hot all time to battery via fuse, station memory
black = ground
red-green = illumination
red-yell = park lamps on, lighting,.
and below is speaker.

this is year 2000 last car sold here,

The battery light keeps coming?If this is the case would check the pigtail harness to the alternator for corrosion and or frayed wiring.Have had to replace the pigtail plugs at the alt for this type of issue.

unhook battery & take belt off,unhook wires on alternator ,take out bolt's that hold it on ,replace in reverse order.

OK on the truck side, brake controller harness wire colors are:

RED = +12V (Hot at all times, even with truck off)
RED/GREEN = Stop light (Hot when brake pedal is depressed)
BLACK = Ground
BROWN/WHITE = Brake out (variable voltage to trailer brakes, 2v-12v)
RED/BLUE = Dimmer (not used on most controllers)

On the controller side (these are pretty much universal):

BLACK = +12v
RED = Stop light
WHITE = Ground
BLUE = Brake out

My software won't let me link the diagram to the internet. So I will describe it to you. I'll use factory
color codes, so if you have any harness left you can
splice to it. On the regulator there's 4 terminals one
ot them is (A) from this a yell/wht wire that go's to a
fusable link then to the + battery side of the solenoid.
The (F) orng/ltblue wire go's to the field terminal on
the alternator.The S or stator wire (wht/blk) go's to
the Stator term on the alt. The I or ign. wire (ltgrn/wht)
go's to the alternator light. (or gauge) Next the B or
battery connection wire (blk/orng) from the alternator
go's to the fusable link, the same one that the yell/wht (A) wire went. Also there is a wht/blk wire
that runs from the stator term. on the alt. to the
choke heater. Hope this helps. Good luck.

You need to upgrade,to a 2000 amp or 2500 amp alternator to alimitate the over heating problem you are having.

I am assuming you are now using a 1976 style GM alt.
The most common and popular model.
You need one 10 gauge wire from the battery to the alternator output.
This can be run directly from the battery +.
Run a short 10 gauge wire from alt output to large wire at regulator plug on alt.
Run small wire on alt reg plug to Bat light wire.
A new alt regulator plug pigtail can be bought at any parts store and is recommended.

The existing regulator should have the connections marked.
One of those wires will be the bat light wire if needed.
If you have a amp meter or voltmeter in the vehicle.....use your existing large output wire (usually red) to hook up to the new alt output connection.