If there aren't any holes for the steps, then they will have to be drilled.
SOURCE: HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ON A 99 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ?
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
SOURCE: Changing the water pump on 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6
WATER PUMP
The water pump is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.
A gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover.
If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage, or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades, or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive. Refer to Viscous Fan Drive in this group.
The water pump can be removed without discharging the air conditioning system (if equipped)
REMOVAL
Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.
Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from water pump by turning mounting nut counterclockwise as viewed from front. Threads on viscous fan drive are RIGHT HAND. Using special tool spanner wrench 6958 with adapter pins 8346 and a suitable fan wrench loosen the fan drive Viscous Fan and Fan Drive Do not attempt to remove fan/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle at this time.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER 6094) SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from thermal viscous fan drive.
Remove two fan shroud-to-radiator nuts Fan Shroud Mounting Hardware Do not attempt to remove fan shroud at this time.
Remove fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly from vehicle as a complete unit.
After removing fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly, do not place thermal viscous fan drive in horizontal position. If stored horizontally, silicone fluid in viscous fan drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate lubricant.
Remove accessory drive belt as follows: The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded automatic belt tensioner. Relax tension from belt by rotating tensioner clockwise (as viewed from front) Automatic Belt Tensioner - When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt.
Remove lower radiator hose clamp and remove lower hose at water pump.
Remove seven water pump mounting bolts and one stud bolt
CAUTION: Do not pry water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks.
Remove water pump and gasket. Discard gasket.
INSTALLATION
Clean gasket mating surfaces.
Using a new gasket, position water pump and install mounting bolts as shown. Water Pump Installation - Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
Relax tension from belt tensioner Automatic Belt Tensioner - Install drive belt
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. Refer to Belt Routing for correct belt routing. Or, refer to the Belt Routing Label located in the engine compartment. The correct belt with correct length must be used.
Position fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.
Be sure the upper and lower portions of the fan shroud are firmly connected. All air must flow through the radiator.
Install two fan shroud-to-radiator nuts Fan Shroud Mounting Hardware
Be sure of at least 25 mm (1.0 inches) between tips of fan blades and fan shroud.
Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft.
Fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling the Cooling System in this group.
Connect negative battery cable.
Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks
SOURCE: 2001 jeep grand cherokee laredo brake lites
sometimes the actual sockets go bad where you plug your bulbs into dust water ect gets in and sometimes its just faulty.i know im a tech for chrysler jeep and dodge but they are not cheap if you have a test light use it and touch the inside where the bulb goes if there is power then its not that.could also have a short.
SOURCE: steps to replace fuel pump on 1999 jeep cherokee laredo 4wheel dr
how are the spark plugs?
would start with those.
the fuel filter is usually located under the hood by the intake manifold and attached to the firewall of the car. the pump is located right by the fuel tank and if you cant see it then its inside the fuel tank. (you will have to lower the fuel tank down to get to the pump.)
SOURCE: I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Limited My
That's a generic O2 sensor circuit overvoltage warning. Did they find any additional codes? Also, did they clear the code for you? Your car is an OBD2-emissions car, meaning you'll have an O2 sensor before and after each catalytic converter. Is your engine the V8 or the inline 6? If it's the V8, you'll probably have four (although it could be two or three) O2 sensors. If it's the inline 6, you likely only have two. I'm asking about additional codes because that one doesn't help narrow down which sensor is bad. Have you noticed your gas mileage dropping at all? Or a buildup of black carbon soot in the tailpipes? Maybe less power than usual? If so, it's probably a primary (pre-cat) O2 sensor. Those are the ones that determine how much fuel the engine will be fed. If you don't have any discernable difference at all, it's probably a secondary sensor (post-cat). The issue I have is, either of those should throw at least one additional code (either to indicate which sensor is going bad, or in the case of a secondary sensor, you'll usually see a "catalytic converter below threshold" or similar code, since the secondary sensors are used by the computer to see how well the cats are working).
Any additional codes in there, or symptoms you can describe?
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