My bmw318im43 200 model engine sucks a lot of air in the manhole when taking cap off also sucks air by the dip sticks

SOURCE: I've owned a a 2000 Plymouth Grand Voyager for a

The van must be on level ground while checking. after adding the correct amount of oil making sure to prime the oil filter before installing run the van for approx 30 seconds turn off and recheck after 1 min.

SOURCE: fuel bleeding back

Glow plugs could be bad, you can check them by unpluging the wires, hook a test light to positive battery cable,touch the end of eacjh plug with the probe end of the test light, is plug is good the light will come. do this to each glowplug. Sounds more to me like the fuel is draining from fuel filter while setting, this is a sign of an air leak in the fuek system, kinda tough to trak down.Block mpontrd fuel pump has a check valve in it, that may be bad, Hate to see you just start throwing parts at it. I really think it is an air leak someplace in the system. Check all lines even abck to the fuel tank, see if there is any moisture on them. Could even be an in tank sending unit rust through on the top of the fuel tank

SOURCE: my hyundai accent piston rings need a change how

If it needs rings, it probably needs a lot of other engine work, like a cylinder hone, or if it's out of spec, a bore, which means new pistons and on. You might look into a good remanufactured engine that comes with a warrantee if your has a ton of miles on it.

Duane Wong

• 6826 Answers
• Posted on Oct 17, 2010

SOURCE: The engine has blown. I need to replace it or

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

SOURCE: my toyota is start burning engine oil besides the

if you have bluish smoke coming from the tailpipe, then it is bad rings. however the valve cover gasket on toyotas tend to start leaking with age as well and if there is not much smoke, the oil may be leaking onto the exhaust tubes or down the ports past the spark plugs into the cylinder.

Testimonial: "im confident that might be the problem because my toyota its old and the owner that had it before he said that never he need to work in the engine "