98 2.5 Jeep Wrangler gauges are not working when vehicle is running perform self test does what it is supposed to but no gauges when running please help

SOURCE: 98 jeep wrangler no heat

Try this disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core use a hose to backflush the core. Then reconnect and try again.

SOURCE: No Oil PSI showing on gaugee But Jeep is running fine?

2004 Jeep Wrangler Problem solved (low oil pressure at idle)

These are the steps to identifying the oil pressure issue

1. Check the oil pressure guage
- this is an easy test to preform by grounding out the single wire from the oil pressure sensor and confirming the gague adjust appropriatley. (With the wire grounded out it should show no oil pressure.) Take the wire off ground should show normal pressure.
2. Change the oil pressure sending usint (15.00$) from the dealer. (cheap way to eliminate a possible sensor issue).
3. Manually hook up an oil pressure gague and check the oil pressure.
Make sure the engine is at operating temperature when checking as it can have a significant impact on the reading.
(I bought a oil pressure guage for 19.00$ online that works perfect. Comes with everything you need to check the OIL pressure at a resonable price.)

Operating pressure should be from 15psi to 60psi. During idle at normal temperature Oil Presure should not be below 15psi.

MY problem: (Oil pressure gugage was droping/ fluctuating at idle) was determined that the oil pump was bad after following the steps above (My readings where 3psi at idle at running temperature. I replaced the oil pump. (only use a Melling Oil pump do not use any other brand I am not a sales person for Melling but is prefered by me and many others that I have spoke with as a soild reliable inexpensive solution 40$-50$). After I changed the oil pump It was determined that Chrysler has installed an alluminium oil pump which had significant wear at only 98,000 miles that had caused it's poor performance. I am not a fan of allumnium oil pumps. How ever it supplied just enough pressure to keep the lifters from clapping so I got luckly and was able to catch the issue before the pump failed leading to bigger problems. After the oil pump was replaced my Oil Pressure is 18psi at idle. If you have to go this far internaly go ahead and spend the extra time to check the Main bearrings for any potential wear issues that could also cause low oil pressure. If you don't want to check all of them at least make sure you check the thrust bearing for any wear as this is a crucial area. All of this can be done by droping the oil pan. (You have to drop the skid plate, exhaust and starter.) It took me and a friend about 5 hours to do everything in the drive way.

This all based off my experience and I am no way an expert. How ever I do not take into consideration lack of maintenace and sludge build up from not properly changing the oil every 3000 to 4000 miles. If you have a sludge issues you should maybe sell or get rid of the vehicle as there could be all sorts of issues from the cam bearing to main bearings to a restricted pick up tube.

SOURCE: Washer fluid not working

There is a fluid "pump" that is generally below the washer fluid reservoir under the hood. To check if the pump is bad try to spray some fluid and have someone listen under the hood while you are doing this. If they hear a hum or the system sounds like it is active but you are getting no fluid spraying out then you probably have a kink or stoppage. The spray nozzles are right below the windshield wipers and sometimes a piece of debris has lodged itself in. You can take a safety pin or something similar and try to get it out that way. If not you may have to take the hose apart and clean it that way. Hope this works for you.

SOURCE: 1997 Jeep Wrangler oil pressure gauge not working

The gage is working because it is coming on sometimes. The oil pressure sending unit on the engine is starting to go. I would replace the oil pressure switch on the engine first.

SOURCE: location/testing of crank sensor 1995 jeep wrangler

Should be on the bellhousing on the drivers side just where you need rubber arms to reach it.Should have no continuity between b&c terminals (check with ohmeter) Harness plug is usually on the drivers side between the master cyl and the back of the engine (unless someone moved it)