Timing nissan xtrail without puling botom timig cover off n go off botom pully I lined the 2 marks on bottom pully to bar on motor n the 2 orange chain links with marks on the cam sprockets wont start

Not sure about Rio 1.8 engine as they are normally 1.3 and 1.5 out in 2001, but maybe yours ha same engine as the Sephia.

the oil pan will need to be removed to repalce the rear seal, so replace the front seal and gasket then, replace the timing chain/gears if sloppy, then reinstall the oil pan.

its tricky enough if your not sure what your doing but ill run you through it. 1. remove top rocker cover and timing belt cover. 2 make up the position of the pully on the cam shaft at the top and the drive shaft at the bottom, this marks are you fail safe incase you cant time the engine. 3 remove the timing belt and pully tentioner, note if your going this far you are as well to replace the timing belt,tentioner and water pump. 4 On the cam shaft at the top if you force them to turn you will see a small indicator mark on the shaft this mark has to line up with the other indicator mark on the housing between the cam shaft and the cam shaft pully, once they line up your top end is timed, mark up the pully incase it moves. 5 on the drive shaft pully there is also markings that have to line up but you can also feel the position of the pully as you turn it, you will feel the piston been forced up and it is timed at top dead centre on cylinder one, which means the the piston has to be at the top just before the point of returning back down, using your feeling as a guide and the markings lined up you will have timing. also mark up this pully, your new marking should be very very close to the fail safe markings you put on at the start. when you have your marking replace the timing belt with the longest distance between pully contact going on first, try not disturb your timing or your hard work will have been for nothing, make sure the tentioner on the belt is tight but not to tight to the point where you ll stretch the belt or snap it, put everything back as you found it and crank the engine, job done, best of luck. hope this helps( rate me on my answer thanks )

you have all 7 marks lined up? there are the top two pullys that need to be lined with the top marks on the rear timing covers, and then there are two marks on the bottom of those pullys that need to be lined with the marks on the two bottom pullys, as well as the two side marks on the bottom pullys that need lined on the belt, and then the mark on the crak pully that needs lined up with the mark on the oil pump?

the marks for th cams are on the tin stuff behind the gears study it for a bit and nyoull see them the mark for the crank pully is on the case onthe bottom of the crank pully just of to one side

I am assuming you have the 3.3 litter v-6?I just did my own so I can offer you a few words of personal advice. Make sure, before you remove the crank shaft pulley, that the engine is at TDC. There is a pointer on the lower timing cover that should line up with the mark that is furthest to the left on the crank pulley (looking at it from the front of the truck). If you are replacing the timing belt for maintenance, not failure, make several marks on the cam pullies to the rear of the timing cover with a paint pen before removing the old belt and make sure that everything stays aligned to those marks upon reassembly. If this method is not an option, use the timing dimples on the back of the upper timing cover only as reference points for the cam pulleis (this is where I ran in to trouble). What is most important is that there are exactly 40 teeth on the belt between the marks on the cam pullies and 43 teeth between the right cam pully mark (right cam as you look at the engine from the front of the truck) and the mark on the crank pully. I used a Goodyear Belt that actually had marks that indicated the 40 and 43 tooth increments. Make sure you have the belt on the right directon, arrows to the front of the truck. Again it is very important that the crank pully remain at TDC (top dead center) during the entire process. Good luck, hope you get it the first time and not the second like me!!

PUT THE #1 CYL ON TOP DEAD CENTER COMPRESSION STROKE (HAVE I FRIEND BUMP THE MOTOR OVER BUMP IS THE KEY IUNTIL YOU FEEL THE COMPRESSION IN THE CYL BLOW YOUR FINGER OFF THE HOLE THEN LOOK AT THE BOTTOM CENTER PULLY IT SOULD HAVE A LINE CUT INTO TO FIND IT THEN LOOK ON THE TIMING CHAIN COVER (RIGHT BY BOTTOM CENTER PULLY) THE SHOULD BE A TAB STICKING OUT OF IT AT SHOULD BE MARKED 0-2-4-6-.... PUT THE LINE OFF THE PULLY ON THE 0 ON THE TAB. THAT IS TOP DEAD CENTER. NOW GO TO THE DIST. AND PUT THE ROTOR IN THE CENTER OF THE NUMBER ONE CYL POST OF THE DIST CAP. START VECH.

start by removing top front camshaft cover ,revealing camshaft sprockets. now jack veihcul up and place on stands. remove left hand front wheel (cam belt side) . remove power sterring belt and alternater belt.looking at crankshaft pully and using an 18mm socket and bar rotate pully until all three marks line up. crank on 1st timing mark and and cam marks facing each other when all three line up you can then remove crankshaft pully , you will need an impact wrench that can torque up to 300lbs .when pully has been removed you can then remove the lower belt cover you will then see the belt tensioner and unbolt and remove , now place a jack with protection under sump and remove bolts on engine mount, when you have separted the 2 halves of the engine mount you can remove the belt and install new belt , k,series cam holder tool is use full for re-alineing cam marks camshaft marks facing each other and crank line up with raised mark on engine block,it is then a case of putting every thing back inthe same order it came off.there are 2 type of cam belt tensioner you can email me and i will tell you how to do each type. [email protected].

This is how 2.8TD.Remove the belts (fan and power steering)with a 10mm socket un-screw the plastic cover. To remove the bottom pully their is 3 small screws inside the pully (10mm or 12mm) unscrew them and take off the pully. Do not try to remove the big nut. Remove the plastic cover. Their is a small hole in all the drive wheel's their is a treaded hole in the engine block behind each one and a mark on the crank shaft. Turn the engine until the mark on the crankshaft is at the top then push the bolts ( metric course tread 12 or 13 mm head 4 to 5 ins long) through the holes in the drive wheel's and try to screw them in if they dont line up first time turn the crankshaft 1 turn and try again. When they all line up screw in the bolds this keeps the timing in place. Release the tention pully (the one with no tracks on and pushing against the back of the belt) remove the old belt replace. To tighten the tention pully put a small socket bar in the square hole turn until the belt is tight hold the preasure on the socket bar ant tighten the locking screw. Remove the screws job done.

it is just a small red mark on the tbottom of the timing belt cover