SOURCE: 1994 Volvo 960 engine cuts off at high speeds
It sounds like a fuel problem as opposed to an electrical fault. Start with the easiest fixes first ..
The next time the car comes to a grinding halt quickly remove the
petrol filler cap and listen for air rushing into the tank. If you can
hear air rushing into the tank that means a vacuum has been created
inside it.
There are 2 causes of a vacuum inside the petrol tank. One is that the
air-valve in the filler cap is blocked (there's usually holes in the
filler cap covered by a rubber type ring) and the other is that the
breather tube from the tank to atmosphere becomes blocked with dirt and
debris thrown up by the roadwheels. Try driving the car with the fuel
cap removed or very loose so that air can easily enter the tank. If the
car still comes to a halt with the same symptoms, then there isn't a
vacuum being caused within the tank.
A failing fuel pump can cause the same problems. I once owned a VW that
had the symptoms you describe. The in-tank fuel pump was 'on its last
legs' and when replaced the car was perfect.
A blocked fuel filter can also cause the same problems.
Here in the UK the Volvo 960 is either a straight-six 2.5 litre or 3
litre engine. I would guess that Volvos in North America share a pretty
much the same mechanical layout depsite model differences. A UK 960 has
two fuel pumps. One is located within the fuel tank and is accessed via
an inspection plate behind the rear passenger seats (estate/station
wagon models). The other fuel pump sits in a bracket underneath the car
alongside the fuel filter, just aft of the front passenger seat (driver
seat in the US..).
The in-tank fuel pump does most of the work, lifting the fuel out of the tank. The under-car pump lifts the fuel to the engine (it shares the same fuel line). Start with the easiest fixes first - is there a vaccuum in the tank that 'slows'/'holds back' the fuel? Then look at the fuel filter which is supposed to be changed every 40,000 miles.
If it's of any use to you, I've put some photos of the fuel pumps and fuel filter on my own website - www.glennsmart.btinternet.co.uk Just choose 'Volvo 960' from the drop-down menu.
SOURCE: engine cutting out when idling or slowing down
Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake
SOURCE: Volvo S60 sensor ?
Sounds like an oxygen sensor (there are two). I had a recent problem where I had a rough idle and my S60 continued to stall out. Turned out to be the rear oxygen sensor. After replacement, car idles nicely and car drives normally.
the engine goes into safe mode when information is transmitted
to the control hardware of the engine/gearbox that there is a fault somewhere on the vehicle that has been detected by the sensor
system The act is performed to prevent more serious damage from happening than would occur if the engine was left to function at full power.
The cause should be indicated by a code that can be read through a scan of the vehicle's OBD, (ON BOARD DIAGNOSTICS,) Without access to this code it is difficult to say whether your malfunction is related to heat affecting the car.
The likelihood is that something has been exacerbated by the weather conditions but that the heat is not the cause. Something else will probably have been going on. previously that has worsened with heat.
The engine is obviously hotter in such conditions .....the engine runs hotter....the cooling system might be at it's limit.
Fuel evaporation might be taking place that might cause the sensors to meter functions less efficiently than might otherwise be the case.
Whatever....you should have a dealer perform a diagnost scan of the OBD so that you can obtain the code or codes necessary to identify the cause
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