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cbm90 Posted on Mar 29, 2018
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I have an 09 Acadia and the fuel pressure test shows 20psi at the test port with the key turned on trying to figure out if it's the high pressure or electric fuel pump that I need to replace. I can hear the pump turn on when I turn the key I've tried replacing fuel rail pressure sensor. Car smokes when gas is applied before the reduced engine power light comes on. After just wreaks of fuel. No visible leaks. Fuses are good.

2 Answers

Jeff Armer

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 15,575 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2018
Jeff Armer
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I've tried replacing fuel rail pressure sensor.????/ You have no clue as to what your doing ! Take it to a qualified repair shop ,before you hurt yourself. Guessing an replacing parts isn't the way to fix it. Testing the electronic's . The fuel pump flow control module (FPCM) is a serviceable GMLAN module. The FPCM receives the desired fuel pressure message from the engine control module (ECM) and controls the fuel pump located within the fuel tank to achieve the desired fuel pressure. The FPCM sends a PWM signal to the fuel pump, and pump speed is changed by varying the duty cycle of this signal.
You need a factory scan tool to diagnose this . Fuel pressure is low , testing the FPCM signals an data before replacing the fuel .
DTC P0192: Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0193: Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage

DTC P0231: Fuel Pump Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0232: Fuel Pump Control Circuit High Voltage
DTC P023F: Fuel Pump Control Circuit

DTC P0601-P0604, P0606, or P062F (FPCM)
DTC P0627: Fuel Pump Enable Circuit
DTC P0628: Fuel Pump Enable Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0629: Fuel Pump Enable Circuit High Voltage

The engine control module (ECM) provides ignition voltage to the fuel pump flow control module (FPCM) whenever the engine is cranking or running. The control module enables the FPCM as long as the engine is cranking or running, and ignition system reference pulses are received. While this enable voltage is being received, the FPCM supplies a varying voltage to the in-tank fuel pump module in order to maintain the desired fuel line pressure.
DTC P0641 or P06A6 (FPCM)
DTC P064A: Fuel Pump Control Module Performance
DTC P1255: Fuel Pump Control Module Driver Overtemperature

You have know business trying to fix this , you have not the knowledge , nor the diagnostic equipment .

Marvin

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2018
Marvin
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Your fuel pressure is really low.

  • cbm90 Mar 29, 2018

    Yeah I know. I know it says the pressure should be between 52-62 with the key on which makes me think it's the electric pump.

  • cbm90 Mar 29, 2018

    It does go up to like 70 when the car is started.

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5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on May 27, 2008

SOURCE: 1997 GMC K1500 4x4 5.7 ex.cab SFI injection system

Did you check the fuel filter?
or possably the catalitic converter is cloged, check the exhaust pressure.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 19, 2009

SOURCE: 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis Fuel Pump Replacement

you can try just resetting the fuel pump switch located in the car

the switch is originally in the car for in case of an accident, however, if changed, chances are you also have to reset it

in my 98 grand marquis, the switch is on the left side of the trunk

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2009

SOURCE: fuel pump problems 2003 s10 chev 4.3 v6

Your ECU is what acctivates your fuel pump realy. Put the key on the run possition and pull the ecu fuse for a few seconds and reinstall it ans it should accivate your realy for 5 seconds, Good luck.

Anonymous

  • 1486 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 19, 2009

SOURCE: 1987 chevy S10 engine idle problem

relace the throtle air idle valve.The temp switch will allso cause this problem.

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




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Somewhere like AutoZone will loan you a fuel rail pressure gauge. Somewhere on it there is a test port. You screw it on, and test in two ways. 1. pressure with the key turned on. 2. Pressure turning over. Compare against specs.
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I change the motor in my 96 dodge 1500 now it won't start acts like its not getting gas

You would need a voltmeter to diagnose the fuel pump circuit. Or you could put a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve test port to check fuel pressure. Just turning the key to on should cause the pump to run for 2 seconds, putting pressure in the lines and at the fuel rail and injectors. Now the pressure should show pretty high, often over 50 psi for multi port injection. Can you hear the hum or buzz of the pump running for 2 seconds with key turned to on? One test is to spray some starting fluid into the throttle (air) intake and see if engine fires on that. If it tries to run then, well sure enough it wasn't getting gas. Now you'll have to check the fuel pump and circuit.
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I have a 2002 isuzu rodeo 3.1 liter v6 and I try to start it and it tries to start but turns off. I also don't hear the fuel pump turn on every time I turn my key. Could it be just the fuel filter or is it...

It could be either one, if the fuel pressure is too low.
Try this, as a rough test of fuel pressure. On the engine on the fuel rail is a test port to connect a fuel pressure gauge. It looks like a tire valve, may have a cap on it that unscrews. Follow your fuel lines to the top of the engine-they will connect to the fuel rail -where the injectors are. If you find the test port, use a small screwdriver or little punch type of thing: be careful of gas spraying out, don't hold your head over the test port: you want to press in the center little valve and see if gas spurts up out of the valve, with the ignition key in on, not start. If gas spurts up, you know the pump is working well enough to get gas up to the engine. The fuel pressure on multi port injection is quite high, about 50 psi. You would need to check what Isuzu calls for. It really would be best to rent a fuel pressure tester, if possible, and connect it at that test port, turn the key to on, and see what pressure you have. If the pressure is as called for, then you know the pump and filter is okay, and can look elsewhere for the problem.
"...tries to start, but turns off..." you mean it does fire and try to run for a second? That does sound like it may be a fuel problem.
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I have a 1988 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 liter v8. I replaced fuel pump and filter, will start and run for about 10 seconds then die and will not restart. Not getting fuel somehow. Injectors were also replaced....

Most likely it is the fuel pressure regulator..also check for spark here's some info for you.. The first thing to do is check for spark.

Disconnect #1 ignition wire at the spark plug.
Install a spark tester into the end of the spark plug boot.
Have an assistant crank the engine over and check for spark at the tester.
Repeat this process at each spark plug.
If any cylinder does not show spark, proceed to secondary component tests.
If ALL secondary components show no spark, test components individually.
If all cylinders test O.K., inspect for fouled spark plugs and clean or replace as necessary.

2010-08-21_174426_1.jpg

If spark checks out good, then you could have a fuel delivery problem. I would recommend to start by checking fuel pressure. Fuel injected cars are very fuel pressure sensitive. Fuel pressure is very important and must be within specifications! But if the pressure is low, it does not mean the pump is bad. A plugged fuel filter, a pinched line, and low voltage at the pump can contribute to low fuel pressure. All three must be check before replacing the pump! You can get a fuel pressure gage at a local auto parts store for cheap.

Fuel pressure testing is frequently overlooked but it is one of the common causes of poor performance. The test procedure must include testing that will insure normal
fuel pressure under all operating conditions.

Key Factors

1. Fuel demands are low at idle.

2. Wide open throttle at high engine revs uses the most fuel.

3. Port injection fuel pressure must be reduced when manifold vacuum is high. Vacuum pulls fuel out of the injector causing it to deliver too much fuel if the pressure remains high. Manifold vacuum is used to open the pressure regulator at a lower pressure when vacuum is high.2010-08-21_175858_1.gif
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the only way to know for sure is to test fuel pressure. The test port is on the fuel pressure line on the back side of the motor near the distributor. You should have at least 57 psi of fuel pressure. Anything less and it will not start.

If you have no fuel pressure than you'll want to check for power of the fuel pump. You should be able to find a spot where you can access the harness as close to the fuel pump as possible. You'll want to probe the large diameter grey wire. It should have power for 3-5 seconds as soon as you turn the key on and anytime the key is in the start position.

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I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

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