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The slash that you placed between the words steering/brake have me concerned. I certainly hope you did not think that these two systems are co-joined? The power steering system is a hydraulic system completely separate and isolated from the brake system. They also use two completely different types of fluid. Putting brake fluid in the power steering system would destroy it just as putting power steering fluid in the brake master cylinder will destroy it. The type(s) of rubber used in the seals for each of these systems demands they use their own fluid. Any cross-contamination will require a complete draining, cleaning, and replacement of ALL rubber components and seals. This would include the power steering pump and rack for the power steering system, and for the brake system the master cylinder, all calipers and wheel cylinder as well as the proportioning valve. If there is an ABS unit, it will need serviced as well.
When contaminated, the brake system, should be flushed and all rubber parts, seals... should be replaced as rubber will swell and hinder the operation of the brake system. If the fluid was just added to the reservoir and has not been circulated through the system you may get away with auctioning the fluid out completely and adding new fluid.
#1) Check to see if the Master Cylinder Rubber on the Cap is Not Calapesed.And fits Even in the Metel Cap.
#2) Fill master up to MAX Level, Bleed Brakes Start with the Passenger Rear,Then Drivers Rear,During the Bleeding Make Sure to Keep Master Cylinder Full off & On.Bleed each Cyling until you get good Clean Fluid from the Blleeder Valves. USE DOT-3 Fluid.And Make Sure theres no Air Left in The System on Each Cylinder
#3) After the Rears are done Next Go to Passengers Front Caliper ,Bleed The Same Way here.Of course you'll need 1-Person Pumping Pedal during Whole Process.
#4) If you Are Still NOT getting Fluid out Of your Bleeder Valves in Front.
#5) Making Sure your Masters Cylinder is Full.You'll see bleeder Valves On MASTER CYLINDER. Loosen bleeder valve while someone is Pushing Pedal to the Floor.The Tighten before The Pedal is Let off.Keep it to The Floor Each time you Open Bleeder Valve.
#6) Do both Sides.If you still are Not getting Fluid from the Front Brake Bleeder Valves. Then Your MASTER CYLINDER is BAD Or your FRONT Brake Pads are Worn Down so Far your Caliper Piston is Bottomed Out.
#7) If this is the case Replace Pads 1st ,If not Fluid Still .
#8) Replace the Master Cylinder.
#9) After Replacing Pads or and Both,Flush out your Fluid from the Complete System until you get Clean Fluid from All your Blleeder Valves. With No Air In The System As Well.
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I would replace the master cylinder. If there isn't a massive leak in your lines chances is are it's the master cylinder or the brake booster. Cylinder is an easier job. Try a junk yard if your looking to get it cheap.
I've seen some masters mounted against a foam gasket but the gasket does nothing...fluid is contained by the internal seals inside the unit.
To bleed any brake system, you should always begin at the master if the unit has run dry or is new. Open the line at the unit, press down on the pedal, hold it there and close the line. (some units come with a bleed valve right above line fitting) Then bleed brakes as normal...rr,lr, rf, lf. sometimes you may need to remove the bleed screw entirely if no fluid comes out (I clean them with a small drill bit if plugged up with rust and dirt) Keep in mind, that some rebuilt masters can be defective, but don't return yours till you have made every effort to do it correctly first!
There is Supposed to be a Gasket Between the Booster and Master Cylinder. If this Gasket is Gone it will leak like this. If it is Still There, You may need a New Master Cylinder or Booster Depending on what you find when you get it Opened up. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
quick tests to do to see if your master cyl is nackerd.
pull the valve on the brake buster out ( the 1 with rubber hose attached, and be gentle so as not to brake it) check for moisture/ brake fluid on the valve. if there is mosture you will need a new master cyl.
you can also undo the master cyl from the booster and gently slide it forward and see if there is any fluid behind it and on the back off it if there is fluid you will need a new master cyl
good luck these checks are very easy and you should be ok to perform them
Dry clutch res. is generally caused by a leak either in the clutch master cyl or the slave unit on the bellhousing. check both for leaks and replace as needed. Master will show seepage between unit and firewall... slave will have fluid under rubber dust boot. Make sure youbleed it (just like brakes) after you replace either.
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