Still pondering staying with OEM GM Orange no silicates, phosphates, nitrates or getting hard to find 1994 shop records saying green no nitrates with silicates, phosphates ?

Concentrated green .... any brand you choose. Then top off with water.

may just be weak hose clamp or gasket. friend's oldsmobile lost fluid and didn't see where. drove untill
temperature was up and opened hood. there was a pin hole in heater hose and a fine spray coming out of it. we
wouldn't have found it without looking. colour of liquid
may not matter. on your own, you might like to drive at night time [ easier to see than in daylight] untill temperature up, open hood and use bright flashlight to see if you can find source of your leak. if spending money is not a problem, mechanic can pressurize cooling system and find leak.

Japanese green, Toyota red, Korean or European blue, or European yellow? As we noted, European and Korean formulas have silicates, so U.S. green or yellow/gold is all right, but it slightly compromises the extended life formulas some have. Typically all that means is: Change at 30,000 instead of 36,000 miles. The Japanese green and red antifreezes have no silicates, but they are very different from U.S. orange. If you really drain out the old antifreeze from any of these systems (thoroughly rinse the system with fresh water), you certainly can refill with a U.S. yellow/gold or green silicated antifreeze.

difference between Dexcool® and clear up some myths and misconceptions about both. This is quite a challenge because every company's antifreezes have different combinations of additives and inhibitors. I won't go into brand specific formulations but rather stick to the basic properties common to all antifreezes.
One myth is that all red antifreezes are Dexcool®. There are standard antifreezes that are red and cars that have Dexcool® will be labeled as such. Another myth is that Dexcool® is not glycol based. Not true, all antifreezes are glycol based, including Dexcool®. Both ethylene glycol (EG) and propylene glycol (PG) are used as the antifreezebase. From here the additional additives and inhibitors are added. Each glycol has supporters, although the best choice depends on the intended use. There are several considerations to be made when choosing an antifreeze, the most important being performance. In the area of performance there is very little difference in EG and PG. Additives determine most performance criteria so all coolants supplied by a respectable manufacturer will perform well. The one major difference in EG and PG is toxicity.
Because the most persuasive reason to use PG instead of EG based antifreeze is toxicity, we should discuss a little about toxicity. The first thing to think about is the difference between acute and chronic toxicity. Acute toxicity refers to toxicity that has a short duration. If you survive poisoning with an acute toxin, there are usually no lasting effects. Chronic toxicity on the other hand is something that lasts a long time. When poisoned with a chronic toxin, symptoms may not appear for a long time and they may last indefinitely.
PG differs from EG in both acute and chronic toxicity's. In antifreeze we are most concerned about one time accidental ingestion. Therefore our interest is in acute toxicity. The acute toxicity of PG, especially in humans, is substantially lower than that of EG. Propylene glycol, like alcohol, is not toxic at low levels. In applications where ingestion is a possibility, PG based antifreeze is a prudent choice. EG is the most common base used in the manufacturing of antifreeze.
Another consideration is that all antifreezes pick up heavy metal contamination during service. When contaminated (particularly with lead) any used antifreeze can be considered hazardous. Because of metal contamination many people feel that the toxicity of used antifreeze is the same regardless of glycol. This is where we look at chronic toxicity. PG is not a chronic toxin. EG and heavy metals are chronic toxins. Heavy metals, on the other hand are not acute toxins at the levels found in used antifreeze. For this reason PG based antifreezes, are much safer for people and pets in case of accidental ingestion even after use.
In many US and Japanese antifreeze formulas phosphate is added as a corrosion inhibitor. European vehicle manufacturers, however, recommend against the use of phosphate containing antifreeze. The following will examine the different positions on this issue to help judge the pros and cons on phosphate inhibitors.
In the US market, a phosphate inhibitor is included in many formulas to provide several important functions that help reduce automotive cooling system damage. The benefits provided by the phosphate include:

• Protect aluminum engine components by reducing cavitation corrosion during high speed driving.
• Provide for corrosion protection to ferrous metals.
• Act as a buffer to keep the antifreeze mixture alkaline. This prevents acid build-up that will damage or destroy metal engine parts.

European manufacturers feel that these benefits are achievable with inhibitors other than phosphate. Their main concerns with phosphate containing products are the potential for solids dropout when mixed with hard water. Solids can collect on cooling system walls forming what is known as scale. This concern comes from the fact that European water is much harder than water in the US. Because phosphate "softens" water by forming solids of calcium or magnesium salts that can dropout of solution, there is potential for cooling system blockage. The phosphate level in most US and Japanese antifreeze formulas do not generate significant solids. Furthermore modern antifreeze formulations are designed to minimize the formation of scale. The small amount of solids formed presents no problem for cooling systems or to water pump seals.

YES. THE ABS SYSTEM IS COVERED IN GREAT DETAIL IN THE FACTORY AUTHORIZED 1994 SHOP SERVICE MANUAL VOLUME 2 "CHASSIS AND BODY". YOU CAN GET THESE ON EBAY FOR UNDER $50.00 AND THEY ARE WELL WORTH IT. CHILTON MANUALS ARE GARBAGE AND WONT CONTAIN ENOUGH INFORMATION TO DO ANYTHING.MAKE SURE TO GET THE GREEN COVERED SHOP MANUAL WRITTEN BY GM.

Any is good , just try to match the color of what you had there before , usually it's green or yellowish.(cause you'll still have some left overs even after draining from the block , so if you mix some differnt colors it may turn to dirty ugly mixture , not even clear sometimes).
Don't use coolant for american cars.

If you follow the top hose from the radiator to the motor you'll notice a housing where the hose meets the motor. Disconnect the hose and remove the two bolts holding the housing in place. Remove the housing and the thermostat is underneath. When you replace it make sure the old gasket is completely removed and replaced with a new one. If pieces of the old gasket remain you will nto get a good seal and will eventually end up with leaks.

check the color, green,blue,orange,red, but watch colors closely and if worse case scenario take a sample into your parts supplier and he can tell for sure which type you need per year of vehicle some have silicon silicates in them some dont, the green/blue arent so critical, but dont mix w/red or orange or you will end up with a radiator full of unset "jello"---sounds funny, but its not,then you'll have serious issues...good luck

They have special coolant now that is accepted by either color (green or orange) I believe Nissan uses Orange, just make sure you dont mix the two as it will gel up on you

go to prestone website and read contents. Siicate based is important.

hello there

there are two types of coolant that were used in your car: your coolant bottle or cap may have a orange or green dot on it.

Orange dot = DEXCOOL
Green dot= Eythelene gycol (green stuff)

All the 97' and UP had dexcool. 96' was the transistion year, some one way some the other.

Hope this helps. Please don't forget to rate me.

Thanks