Have the fault codes read
first then fix the faulty sensor
SOURCE: NEED DRIVE BELT DIAGRAM FOR 2000 ISUZU RODEO
Here is your diagram. Good Luck and say thanks..lol http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2000/isuzu/rodeo/2000_isuzu_rodeo_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
SOURCE: need diagram for timing belt setting and alignment
CLICK HERE
for a BOATLOAD of info.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for helping with your problem.
SOURCE: water pump replacement 96 isuzu rodeo
Remove belt, fan, fan shroud and fan bracket. Remove timing covers, timing belt and water pump. Replace timing belt and the hydraulic tensioner with new ones. I suggest you get a mechanic to do this as you can easly get it out of time. Not an easy job.
SOURCE: 991 Isuzu 2.6l petrol runninf problem!
I realise you have probably solved this problem by now so sorry for the late news mate . Had a similar prob and it turned out to be an alternator malfunction . I replace the brushes and off she went . These things send voltage from the alt . to a fuel pump relay or whatever so the pump wont run if the eng isn't (or the alt isn't outputting any voltage.) . Hope you already had it sorted . But I hope this helps if not . Cheers Simon .
SOURCE: I need to change the fuel filter on my 2000 isuzu rodeo. How?
It's located just under the driver side door, and then behind the outermost frame bar. The new one will denote which direction to install it. I recommend grabbing some rubber sheathed hose clamps from the store while you're there.
First locate the bleeder valve on the fuel rail.
It's just underneath the plastic
cover on the engine, follow the silver rail that runs across the front
and goes back on both sides, it's on the right side, just under the
left-side blue refrigerant valve cover. Open the cover (black) and be sure to have a rag under and on top of it as you use a screwdriver to release the pressure on it - just push the pin in the valve. Air will come out, then a little gas, so be ready. Replace the cover.
Open your gas cap. Now the pressure is off of both sides.
Use the clamps to close the lines going into it, in and out. Clamp them about 3 or 4 inches from the filter, to leave yourself room to work.
Remove the bolt on the mounting bracket, it will take a socket to get it, as salt and other road juices will have rusted it pretty well since the last time it was changed. Please don't try to use an adjustable wrench, unless you really want to punch the underside of your car.
Factory hose clamps, self explanatory. Vice grips are good for this.
Use the vice grips to gently wrench the hose from the filter. This will take some work, it's on there very tight from the existing pressure in the lines. just don't clamp them so tight that it might tear them. Just hand tight and wiggle back and forth.
When it comes off, gas is going to spill out, be ready. Quickly replace the filter and replace the factory hose clamps, remove yours, and remount it in the bracket.
Close your gas cap!
Start your car a few times to get the pressure back in the lines, and you're all set.
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