Deep discharge at idle at traffic lights. Had to turn off all accessories, after a minute or two charging system would come back to 13V+ if driving. Eventually charging system complete failure. Check engine light on now whenever running. Replaced alternator, went through every connector under the hood except bulkhead. 12V at the field terminals on the back of the alternator. I'm about ready to disassemble the dashboard to check the battery meter connections, fuse block and ignition switch! Any tricks for separating the bulkhead connector from the firewall once the center screw and electrical tape have been loosened / removed? HELP!
Holy cow! Make sure you stick to the basics here. Battery cable corrosion, Ground straps to the body. Bolts tight on the alternator. I have seen all of those issues and they can all cause that problem. Also, I have seen a voltage regulator (internal one) swing up and down on voltage when certain RPM is met. Please stick to the simple items.
SOURCE: 1999 Volvo S80 will not hold a charge
Tricky ... Was the alternator replaced with a 2nd hand one or a new one?
A defective alternator can allow the battery to discharge within a few minutes (the diodes in the rear of the alternator can burn out and cause the problem. The diode pack can be replaced). When this happens recharging the battery only replaces the power in the battery - which drains straight back to earth via the alternator, flattening the battery again - often within a couple of minutes or less.
Does the battery lose its charge when the car is standing or just when the engine is fired up?
If the battery loses its charge overnight, try disconnecting the wiring from the rear of the alternator (also look at the electrical connector that fits into the back of the alternator - look for melting/burning marks which suggest something may be amiss inside the alternator).
Let the car stand overnight with the alternator wires disconnected. Will it start up ok and drive (with the alternator wires still disconnected) the next morning?
You could also try just disconnecting the alternator wires, firing up the car and then driving it -
If the car drives ok without dying out and gets further down the street than it usually does, then it probably is the alternator at fault. The car should drive until the battery drains and has insufficient power to trigger the ignition. You certainly would get further down the street with a charged battery and disconnected alternator than you currently do.
It does sound as though you've had an alternator fault to begin with. If it has been replaced with a 2nd hand unit that unit may also be faulty. Rather than replace parts in desperation, visit an auto electrician's - within a few minutes they will be able to test the battery/alternator output and also identify where the lost current is going. It will be cheaper in the long run to have an auto electrician look at the charging system. It only takes a few minutes.
SOURCE: 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 ,4.7L V-8 Battery is not CHarging
A lot of Chrysler products have the voltage regulator in the computer. I would check the charging system wiring first for poor connections and if nothing else is found there is nothing else for you to do but change it.
SOURCE: hoe to Replace an alternator on a 1996 Dodge Ram Van 2500 3.9L V6
Remove negative battery cable.
Remove the electrical plug and wireing. Mark them.
Loosen the alternator pivot bolt.
Remove the bolt that attaches the alternator to the adjustment arm.
Rotate the alternator to loosen the drive belt and disengage the belt from the pulley. Be careful that any spacers that are used in mounting are kept with their original bolts. This will make correct reinstallation much easier.
While supporting the alternator remove the pivot bolt.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
Do the reverse procedure to install new alternator.
SOURCE: 1996 dodge ram 2500 van alternator not charging battery
do a continuity test from the large red wire on your alt to the battery,could be a fusible link or broken wire,sometimes a wire will break within the sheathing so it won't be visible by eye,check all conections for corrosion and either clean or repair
SOURCE: Blower motor stopped working
most common is the blower motor resistor or "module" going out. but if you have 12volts to the resistor the motor should work on "HI" but not on any other speed. if it doesnt work at all, you might have a bad motor. just to be safe id replace both. neither one is too hard to replace. three 5/16" bolts for the motor and two 5/16" for the resistor they are both under the glove box
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