Vacuum line hook up 1980 ford fairmont

Ur local library has shopmanuals for all makes sec 629 reference

I don't think your engine is a 22R-E as the E denotes electronic fuel ejection. For 1980 it should be just a 22R. I would not suggest slapping on another carb without expecting more work than just hooking up the original vacuum lines. Some lines you could cap off but others would need the vacuum and rerouting. There is plenty of info in the following blog on removing smog devices and extra vacuum lines here:
http://www.yotatech.com/f114/de-smogging-early-22r-205845/
There are also plenty of pictures and diagrams for your engine. Making a trip to your local junkyard might find you a 22R with a carb still attached but it's slim these days. I know this question is from January but if it's too late to help you than maybe it can help some one else.

It a 2 barrel rodchester

Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports.
As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump.
If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.

go to autozone.com. become a member. and look up the vacuum diagram for your particular yr, engine, trans, ca or 49 state.

You need three basic elements for an internal combustion engine to run - spark, fuel, and oxygen. First, pull the distributor cap and check the condition of the rotor button, make certain that the coil wire is in place. This should take care of the spark problem, you should not have to change all the plugs to crank it. Next, since it is turning over check for major vacuum leaks such as the vacuum line running into the brake cylinder. Next, since you changed the fuel pump disconnect the fuel line at the carb and turn the engine over until you have fuel coming through the line, it would also help to change any fuel filters between the carb and the gas tank. Reconnect the fuel line and pour a small amount of fuel directly into the carb. The carb may have set for too long and become dry, this should prime the system. Once it cranks you can fine tune and find out any other small problems such as bad plugs, bad wires, and minor vacuum leaks.

You can go to autozone.com and register for free for a free full online repair manual for your car.

IF YOU WANT YOU CAN E-MAIL ME AT [email protected] AND I CAN GIVE YOU THAT DIAGRAM. IT WOULD FIT ON THIS PAGE

The vacuum comes from the intake manifold and ported vacuum comes from the carb above the throttle plate. You might have a leak at the carb gasket or intake manifold gasket. Spray some car cleaner or WD40 around the gaskets and vacuum lines while the engine is running and when you hear the idle speed up, you've found the leak. You will need to install the rebuilt carb first, and you should tighten any loose intake manifold bolts. Don't overtighten them. Also check the EGR valve because it could cause the engine to stall at idle. A good tune up might be needed too. I've seen some of those engines run real rough when the ignition timing was off.

Put a 4 barrel intake manifold on it.