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Clive Posted on Nov 17, 2017

Ford Laser 1.3 B3 Car engine_block coolant pipe loose

Hi. My Ford Laser 1.3, B3 engine, has an ongoing coolant leak where metal pipe enters engine block. It seems as if this pipe was originally press-fitted as there are no welding marks. I've tried epoxy and Pratley putty, but still leaks when steam builds up. I thought of file-scoring or threading to 'roughen' the surfaces before epoxying, but this may worsen the gap. Limited to 1-2 Km due to leak. Can repair/engineering workshops weld or somehow join permanently? Any suggestions?

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There should be rubber hoses at either end of the metal pipe to allow for engine ,movement. It would be black steel pipe and it rusts out from lack of coolant conditioner.. A final fix for this would be to take it to a muffler/ exhaust shop and have a new pipe bent to shape made out of exhaust stainless steel tubing
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Hi I have a 1996 grand prix SE 3.1L engine. Its leaking a good amount of coolant, mostly from around the the back of the engine. I look under the car and can see also little driplets along the...

Yes, the pump is on passenger side. But when car is moving, the coolant that leaked can get blown all over, so you need to check carefully. Use rags to wipe off all the coolant you can see, then when more leaks out, maybe you can see where it comes from.
The noise on driver's side might be coolant boiling inside the engine. Be careful it doesn't overheat, or you will be doing the gasket job again.
On the backside of the engine (near the firewall), a couple of possibilities: the heater hoses are there, so check them for leaks. Also on the engine block, about halfway up the block, there are 3 or 4 freeze plugs, spaced evenly along the engine (also on the front side of the engine-the same freeze plugs. Check if any of these are leaking. Use a flashlight and maybe get under the engine to look around-be careful if you have to raise the car-don't trust a jack, but use blocks or jack stands.. The freeze plugs are round metal plugs about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and pressed into the block. You can see or feel them. They can be punched out and new ones pushed in. But make sure you have one that is leaking before attempting that.
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Don't let the engine overheat - you'll turn a slightly pricey job into an enormously expensive and time-consuming job if you let it overheat too much.
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There are four problem spots that you should check the address this issue. replace one or all the below components that fail the inspection.


CHECK LIST--

1. Check the Head Gasket(s). Check for leaking or damaged head gaskets. if you are seeing any white smoke coming from the tail pipe, this will be a sign for coolant leaks inside the engine.

2. Check the intake manifold gasket(s). Check the gasket for damage and worn corners as well.

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Hello **** B. First double check the hose connection for the leak, it can drain to another connection & appear to leak there. Second, yes there is a gasket on the pipe connection to the block. To replace the gasket, park the car in a location for least 5 to 6 hours to cool down mabe longer. Have the gasket replacement, a tube of gasket sealant, 2 gallons of antifreeze, a drain bucket, and a very large rag or rags. Remove the hose, catch the fluid in bucket, remove the pipe, clean the old gasket area, apply gasket sealent, attache gasket, mount the pipe, tighten all mounting bolts a 1/2 to 3/4 turn each until torqued downed evenly, and attache hose. Fill reservoir, with radiator cap off, start engine and add coolant to radiator until full and you see fluid flowing. Apply cap & check for leaks. Easy???????? Good Luck.
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