Ford Laser 1.3 B3 Car engine_block coolant pipe loose
Hi. My Ford Laser 1.3, B3 engine, has an ongoing coolant leak where metal pipe enters engine block.
It seems as if this pipe was originally press-fitted as there are no welding marks.
I've tried epoxy and Pratley putty, but still leaks when steam builds up.
I thought of file-scoring or threading to 'roughen' the surfaces before epoxying, but this may worsen the gap.
Limited to 1-2 Km due to leak.
Can repair/engineering workshops weld or somehow join permanently?
Any suggestions?
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There should be rubber hoses at either end of the metal pipe to allow for engine ,movement. It would be black steel pipe and it rusts out from lack of coolant conditioner.. A final fix for this would be to take it to a muffler/ exhaust shop and have a new pipe bent to shape made out of exhaust stainless steel tubing
Yes, the pump is on passenger side. But when car is moving, the coolant that leaked can get blown all over, so you need to check carefully. Use rags to wipe off all the coolant you can see, then when more leaks out, maybe you can see where it comes from.
The noise on driver's side might be coolant boiling inside the engine. Be careful it doesn't overheat, or you will be doing the gasket job again.
On the backside of the engine (near the firewall), a couple of possibilities: the heater hoses are there, so check them for leaks. Also on the engine block, about halfway up the block, there are 3 or 4 freeze plugs, spaced evenly along the engine (also on the front side of the engine-the same freeze plugs. Check if any of these are leaking. Use a flashlight and maybe get under the engine to look around-be careful if you have to raise the car-don't trust a jack, but use blocks or jack stands.. The freeze plugs are round metal plugs about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and pressed into the block. You can see or feel them. They can be punched out and new ones pushed in. But make sure you have one that is leaking before attempting that.
Good luck, Joe.
it the metal lines but the leak is in the hose cut the hose off get 2 hose clamps and a rubber hose big enough to slide over the metal ends hope this helps
Soundls like (REALLY LIKE) a broken heater matrix.
You can bypass the matrix by pulling the water pipes from either side and joining them with a piece of copper pipe to stop the leak and make the car useable for the time being.
You will have to get a new matrix and fit it or have it fitted if you want a heater tho...
Don't let the engine overheat - you'll turn a slightly pricey job into an enormously expensive and time-consuming job if you let it overheat too much.
rear cylinder block core plug its behind the bell housing.It has been caused by running the engine with no antifreeze which also acts as an anti corrosion inhibitor .
The metal pipe you are talking about is a heater pipe. it carries coolant around the block. i would just buy a new pipe and replace the old one. if you use epoxy or something its probably going to leak. there is a bracket built into the pipe and its screwed to the heater hose flange on the side of the motor. once you remove the two nuts you should be able to take a prybar and pry it from the block. (Its just pushed into the block and sealed with an o-ring)
Hi..my name is Keith..and if its leaking up front in the middle..its your water pump..it has a weep hole in the bottom of it..and when the bushing goes bad..the coolant comes out the hole in the bottom of the water pump..but it could be other things..but thats the most likely suspect..if not please write me back and i will help you further
There are four problem spots that you should check the address this issue. replace one or all the below components that fail the inspection.
CHECK LIST--
1. Check the Head Gasket(s). Check for leaking or damaged head gaskets. if you are seeing any white smoke coming from the tail pipe, this will be a sign for coolant leaks inside the engine.
2. Check the intake manifold gasket(s). Check the gasket for damage and worn corners as well.
3. Check the water pump. Make sure that the water pump is functioning properly and, make sure there are no leaks around the housing.
4. Check the Engine Cylinder Block for ware or scorn cylinder block.
5. flush the radiator to check for sludge build up as well. replace the radiator if metal fragments are noticed during the flushing procedure.
Hello **** B. First double check the hose connection for the leak, it can drain to another connection & appear to leak there. Second, yes there is a gasket on the pipe connection to the block. To replace the gasket, park the car in a location for least 5 to 6 hours to cool down mabe longer. Have the gasket replacement, a tube of gasket sealant, 2 gallons of antifreeze, a drain bucket, and a very large rag or rags. Remove the hose, catch the fluid in bucket, remove the pipe, clean the old gasket area, apply gasket sealent, attache gasket, mount the pipe, tighten all mounting bolts a 1/2 to 3/4 turn each until torqued downed evenly, and attache hose. Fill reservoir, with radiator cap off, start engine and add coolant to radiator until full and you see fluid flowing. Apply cap & check for leaks. Easy???????? Good Luck.
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