01 Montana. I tried to install a side post battery disconnect. When I did it wasn't getting any power. I had the battery and alternator checked out and they're fine.

Ned C Cook

• 3433 Answers
• Posted on Oct 15, 2009

SOURCE: my silverado 3500 01 battery keeps going

Ck the charge rate at the battery posts. The proper range is 23.6 to 14.2v , The higher the voltage the llower the amps. Ie; at 13v Alternator is about 10% under capacity. @ 12v it is charging at max capacity. @ 15 v isthe alt is not charging but frying your battery. 9amps is ok if battery is fairly charged but at start up it should sit on 13-13.6 volts. for about 15 seconds the start climbing to less charge towards 14.2.

SOURCE: Will not charge

you will get some funny answers from some of these "experts " The symptoms suggest to me with out much doubt that the regulator is not doing its job correctly ,consistently.Iwould take it to an AUTO ELECTRICIAN and get it tested in situ.... there is only 4 things it can be , wireing ---battery---alternator-----regulator and of those the reg. is the only one that chops and changes. it will cost little for a sparky to check the reg ,. AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE OUTCOME

SOURCE: Ford Taurus Not Charging

check alternator, could ther be a short some where?

SOURCE: when the Jeep was new the volt meter read 14

Generally the standard voltage should be 13.5 to 15.5 depending on the load that is being put on the vehicle and age of the battery an older battery may require more voltage to charge. Unless the voltage drops below 13 you are probably ok.

SOURCE: After leaving the last gas

Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.

Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.

Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.

Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.

Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "